I have a 70 swinger that I'm currently putting on a SSBC kit from classic industries. To go from drum to disc in the front. My question is, do the calipers go toward the front of the car or on the rear near the fender well. I thought I remembered some one having them on the front but can't seem to find the images or thread.also I'm going to keep drums in the rear. Im not planning on putting a booster on. Is there anything else I need to get i.e. Proportioning valve, master cylinder?
SSBC Conversion help
- Thread starter Firedart
- Start date
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nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
OP are you getting any help? The instructions indicate that the calipers go to the rear for an A Body.
http://ssbrakes.com/files/2015 Instructions/a153.pdf
http://ssbrakes.com/files/2015 Instructions/a153.pdf
Yes, they mount towards the rear.
You will be needing a DISC Brake master cylinder for your application.
Also need to plumb in a proportioning valve in the system.
(I have a proportioning valve for sale, in the For Sale section of this forum, if your interested)
Do I still need the master cylinder if the bowl has two different chambers? I guessing front and rear. I was almost positive I was going to need a proportioning valve. I'm going to keep drums on the rear but I'll have to buy new ones or a rebuild kit. The car hasn't ran in 15 years is what the previous owner said. I have the motor trans and drive shaft out of it and I'm trying to build a street/strip car with the 318/904/ 7.25 although I haven't even gotten to any of that. I'm starting from the bottom and building up.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
1) Your present MC sounds like it is for a drum/ drum system. It will work with the discs up front, but know that as the disc brake pads wear, the front caliper pistons move in more and more, and they take more and more fluid out of the MC's rear reservoir (which works the front brakes). At some point, you will have to add brake fluid, and then when you go to change pads, you will have to siphon some brake fluid back out to keep it from overflowing and going all over the place. The later disc/drum MC's , with taller reservoirs and a larger rear reservoir, is designed to get around this issue with front discs. (FYI, this draining of the MC reservoir does not occur with drums as things wear, so their reservoirs can be smaller.)
2) With this car sitting for so long, it is unwise to not replace the MC. Brake fluid absorbs water and rusts up the iron parts and so it is just good sense to put in a new MC anyway.
3) The same applies to the rear wheel cylinders.
4) The 3 rubber hoses in the system will rot on the inner liner and fall apart where you cannot see it, and that will cause all sorts of braking havoc. It is wise to renew those.
5) According to some (AJFormS), if you have 10" rear drum brakes, you may be OK with a prop valve. SO do you have 10" or 9" drum brakes? If you try the setup without a prop valve, find a level gravel surface and try braking with varying pedal pressures to see which end locks up first. If the rears lock up easily before the fronts, then you'll need a prop valve. This is all somewhat variable with brake pad and shoe material BTW.
2) With this car sitting for so long, it is unwise to not replace the MC. Brake fluid absorbs water and rusts up the iron parts and so it is just good sense to put in a new MC anyway.
3) The same applies to the rear wheel cylinders.
4) The 3 rubber hoses in the system will rot on the inner liner and fall apart where you cannot see it, and that will cause all sorts of braking havoc. It is wise to renew those.
5) According to some (AJFormS), if you have 10" rear drum brakes, you may be OK with a prop valve. SO do you have 10" or 9" drum brakes? If you try the setup without a prop valve, find a level gravel surface and try braking with varying pedal pressures to see which end locks up first. If the rears lock up easily before the fronts, then you'll need a prop valve. This is all somewhat variable with brake pad and shoe material BTW.
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