Sure grip?

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Deleted member 22463

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Hey fellas,

Long time no talk. I have a quadary for ya'll.

I took the 74 into the shop, and one of the techs on my report said the rear differential fluid needed servicing (what I take to mean being replaced). Since this is a relatively simple task, I'm up for doing it myself.

However, as I have read on a bunch of other threads, you guys make mentioning of sure grip. What is it and is there any way to tell if my car might have it?

Any recommendations on gear fluid is also highly appreciated. Car needs another ~$1800 worth of repairs, so anything I can do by myself is a very good thing.

Thanks,

Rick
 
when u hit the gas do you leave 1 mark or 2 same lenth sure grip posi traction 2 wheels spinning or just 1 a single spin or some times both
limited slip
 
Raise the rear, put it in neutral.
Spin one of the tires by hand, and if the other tire turns the same direction it's a suregrip.

Or jack up one side, put it in neutral and if you can't spin the tire by hand it's a suregrip.
 
mypunkrock said:
Hey fellas,

Long time no talk. I have a quadary for ya'll.

I took the 74 into the shop, and one of the techs on my report said the rear differential fluid needed servicing (what I take to mean being replaced). Since this is a relatively simple task, I'm up for doing it myself.

However, as I have read on a bunch of other threads, you guys make mentioning of sure grip. What is it and is there any way to tell if my car might have it?

Any recommendations on gear fluid is also highly appreciated. Car needs another ~$1800 worth of repairs, so anything I can do by myself is a very good thing.

Thanks,

Rick
Click to expand...


$1800.00 in repairs?
What all did they say the car needed?

Most likely a 74 4-door will have an open rear end, but jack the rear end up, put it in neutral as stated above and test to see if it is open or limited slip.
If it is limited slip you must add a bottle of limited-slip fluid to lubricate the clutches/cones depending on the carrier style.
 
sireland67 said:
$1800.00 in repairs?
What all did they say the car needed?

Most likely a 74 4-door will have an open rear end, but jack the rear end up, put it in neutral as stated above and test to see if it is open or limited slip.
If it is limited slip you must add a bottle of limited-slip fluid to lubricate the clutches/cones depending on the carrier style.
Click to expand...

1. Replace all of the shocks
2. Bushings on the control arms are gone and ball joints have play

~$1800 between those two things ($1300 on the latter)

Thanks for clarification everyone. Any recommendations for fluid? I've seen 75-90, 85-90, and some other numbers floating around.

R
 
I have to say it, sorry. Those prices are insane. Do it yourself or find someone who can help you if for some reason you can't. I don't even know anything about your car, but as a 4 door, you'll be upside down in it before you even get around to servicing the rear at those prices.
 
X2 those prices are the old 'we don't want to work on this, so here is a astronomical price to get you to take a hike'.

Take it for a second opinion, don't get hosed.

Hell, better yet Rick, learn to do it your damn self! Nothing about these cars is that hard. You can do these tasks in the driveway. Especially with a place like this. Ask me how I know.

Surf the site, all technical questions will be answered.

PS: 75-90 is fine.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
X2 those prices are the old 'we don't want to work on this, so here is a astronomical price to get you to take a hike'.

Take it for a second opinion, don't get hosed.

Hell, better yet Rick, learn to do it your damn self! Nothing about these cars is that hard. You can do these tasks in the driveway. Especially with a place like this. Ask me how I know.

Surf the site, all technical questions will be answered.

PS: 75-90 is fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. Housemate volunteered to help me do the bushings.

The unfortunate thing with learning a lot of the car stuff is the time (grad school is a massive time suck!) versus the payout to a mechanic (grad school is not lucrative!). I've been trying to balance the two better, but it seems when it rains it pours.

Hopefully I can get the bushings done by next weekend, when I have an appointment to get some repairs on the cluster.

She is slowly coming together. Will post pics sometime in April. You guys are all a huge help :cheers:

R
 
mypunkrock said:
Thanks guys. Housemate volunteered to help me do the bushings.

The unfortunate thing with learning a lot of the car stuff is the time (grad school is a massive time suck!) versus the payout to a mechanic (grad school is not lucrative!). I've been trying to balance the two better, but it seems when it rains it pours.

Hopefully I can get the bushings done by next weekend, when I have an appointment to get some repairs on the cluster.

She is slowly coming together. Will post pics sometime in April. You guys are all a huge help :cheers:

R
Click to expand...

Take your time, do one project, then do another. Starting from worst to least. A good way to check for the steering weak link, is get under the front end with a flashlight and look at the linkage while your buddy turns the wheel back and forth. Whatever has the most slop, replace that first.

Grab a hold of the tire and shake it for play testing, left and right is tie rods, up and down is ball joints. You don't always have to use a pickle fork either, a nice blast to the inside end of the piece in question usually knocks it loose.
 
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