Suspension advice needed.

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yellowghost

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Ok here is where I am at. Rotors,shock,splash shield etc removed. Backed off the adjusting bolt but will eventually take it out completely. I figure it will be easier to unscrew if I support the control arm with a jack. Will have one of those at my disposal later today. Now my plan, once that bolt is out is to disconnect the lower ball joint from the spindle, while supported with the jack and gently lower the jack, as with a coil spring suspension. Then deal with the spindle and ball joints on the bench later. Is this a bad idea? Is removing the adjusting bolt enough to completely release the load from the torsion bars? I would love to get those control arms out tonight so I can bring em in to get sandblasted this week. And then the new polyurethane bushings installed.

Thanks
Jeff

IMG_0748.jpg
 
The way I have always done it is to leave the torsion bar tension on the lower control arm, remove the cotter key top and bottom, loosen the BJ nuts a few turns but do not take them off. Then just like the picture shows the tie rod end,smack the metal with a BFH where the stud goes thru and they will pop loose. Then loosen the Torsion bar bolt all the way and continue to take the front end apart.
 
I removed the adjusting bolt,than removed the upper arm and the lower arm all at the same time.you can also do it like SGBarracuda said.
 
Is it safe to assume that removing the adjusting bolt will release all the load from the torsion bars?
 
No, there will still be some tension on the torsion bars.
After the lca is loose, remove the spring clip at the rear of the torsion bar and you should be able to back them out. I used two pieces of scrap 2X4 long enough to use 4 carriage bolts. Saddle it over the torsion bar, tighten them down real good and use your bfh...
C
 
A few tips, for what it's worth...

Crack the lower ball joint bolts/nuts loose on the car. Easier than using a vise.

If you're taking out the torsion bars, loosen the nut on the lower control arm shaft that mounts in the K-member. That will let the LCA pivot freely. Take the clip out at the back of the torsion bar.

Is this all because of the bad upper ball joint? You don't have to tear down quite that much to get the upper control arms out.
 
I'm talking about the lower replacement poly insert where you use the original bushing shell and you slide the POS bushing in with Vasoline and then slide the LCA mounting pin into it. They are crap, used them on my 69 and while on the Alignment rack my buddy was showing me how much flex/movement the LCA has when these are used. I'll stick to the originals and therefore will by all of your "old school" Press in types.
 
Oh yea, I guess I should have made that clear, I like the poly uppers, strut and other poly parts.
 
Can i get in on this..i have replaced these bushings[lca]on mounting they both ride pretty much the same spot and they are both captivated.. and the only real difference i can come up with is that the pin and cup are pretty well bonded to the rubber bushing and the poly slides on both..both use the cup and both use the pin ..so whats up with people not liking poly...i have not driven with polly so im really inexperienced with it so all the experience and comments here would help me learn about this issue...tx..j
 
i just went through the ball joint thing, it's better to leave the upper arms in to take out the upper ball joints, that is if you don't want to bring them to a machine shop.
 
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