Swapping on an Airgap intake

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Lars

Lars

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Finally installing my Airgap on the Dart. I have the bypass hose fitting and heater hose fitting from Mancini. Should I put antiseize on the threads or silicone?

Thanks
 
I use red (high temp) RTV on everything, easier to spot leaks that way
 
I use permatex no. 1 or 2. The brown gooey stuff, on coolant fittings. Works great, or the white permatex thread sealant. I avoid silicone unless I have to. Intake corners/end rail area and oil pan corners, thermostat, intake water passages, thats about all I use it on. But thats just my opinion. I hate cleaning that crap off bolts when I have to take it apart again.
 
OK cool, I'll have to go get some then, all I have is the gray stuff and copper stuff. Been a while since I did any serious work on it. I forgot how easy it is to work on.

Can't wait to be rid of this Lokar linkage.
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The coolant leak around the thermostat housing is why I'm changing it out.
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I always use liquid teflon. Pipe thread seals by the threads coming together. Using something like teflon pipe thread sealant means it wont leak and it will come apart years later if you need it to.
 
I like the red silicone. It is high temp stuff. Teflon pipe sealer is not and is more intended for household plumbing fixtures. I've seen it leak in automotive applications over time. I don't understand what some folks have against silicone. It's almost like they think it's some kinda redneck duct tape engineering or sumthin. The stuff is high temp resistant and once it's cured, it's PERMANENT and will NOT leak. It works very well, as long as you use it within its element.
 
Ever seem the factory sensors with sealant on them? It's not silicone.. It's teflon based. We're talking cooling system here, not inside a boiler...lol. And it looks much cleaner.
 
Another vote for teflon pipe tape..i see your using the chrome thermostat housing and its leaking,the trick with those is to get some sandpaper lay it flat and run the thermostat flat surface back and forth to roughin it up,apply a small amount of sealant to the gasket and they usually seal...
 
stroked 340 said:
Another vote for teflon pipe tape..i see your using the chrome thermostat housing and its leaking,the trick with those is to get some sandpaper lay it flat and run the thermostat flat surface back and forth to roughin it up,apply a small amount of sealant to the gasket and they usually seal...
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This thermostat boss on the intake is actually warped, not the housing.

OCswinger said:
can we see the finished result?
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Will do once I get it back together.
 
moper said:
Ever seem the factory sensors with sealant on them? It's not silicone.. It's teflon based. We're talking cooling system here, not inside a boiler...lol. And it looks much cleaner.
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No sir, it's not. Not since the advent of "sensor safe" black silicone in the late 80s. Even GM used to use the liquid teflon up to about 93 or 94 and then sent out a TSB regarding.......heat degradation. I was workin on the line at Yeoman's chevrolet in Macon then and remember it well. Most sensors you buy now over the dealer counter are either bare or already have sensor safe silicone embedded in the threads.

Here, look at these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

That's sensor safe RED silicone.

Here is one you are talking about:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stan...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Most of them come with silicone now. It don't matter. I aint tryin to turn it into a pissin match.....just tellin you what I've SEEN in the industry. Just seal the danged thing with sumthin. That's the important thing.
 
I agree with what all the suggestions everyone had because I used anti seize on my bolts and it leaked! I was a noob and I was thinking oh yea I don't want those babies rust into place. Anything to seal those up good is better than anti seize in my experience.
 
mopardude318 said:
Why don't you like the Lokar linkage?
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See how it is only bolted to one stud? Because of this you can't run a real strong return spring since it will constantly get pulled out of alignment. This caused me a lot of trouble with getting a decent idle/full throttle travel. I like the kick down cable, and the throttle cable was fine too. But their mounting solution needs a lot of work.
 
Lars said:
See how it is only bolted to one stud? Because of this you can't run a real strong return spring since it will constantly get pulled out of alignment. This caused me a lot of trouble with getting a decent idle/full throttle travel. I like the kick down cable, and the throttle cable was fine too. But their mounting solution needs a lot of work.
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I had the same problem with my Bouchillion Performance cable as it mounted the same way. The problem with the Bouchillion bracket is its made for a edel or normal holly type of carb that has a squarish type of base. When you step up to a dominator or mighty BG type of carb the base is rounded and it has nothing to support itself with anymore. I cut off the support tab on the bracket and reweld it so it work properly. Perhaps the Lokar bracket could be fixed in the same manner?
 
Lars said:
See how it is only bolted to one stud? Because of this you can't run a real strong return spring since it will constantly get pulled out of alignment. This caused me a lot of trouble with getting a decent idle/full throttle travel. I like the kick down cable, and the throttle cable was fine too. But their mounting solution needs a lot of work.
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I have the lokar setup with the stainless steel braided lines and I must be lucky as I am not having Any Issues like your describing.. My brother has the same thing on his 32 Pherd roadster although we both have Edelbrock carbs not sure if that makes any diff..
 
412 Stroker said:
I have the lokar setup with the stainless steel braided lines and I must be lucky as I am not having Any Issues like your describing.. My brother has the same thing on his 32 Pherd roadster although we both have Edelbrock carbs not sure if that makes any diff..
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Dunno, I fought it for a long time before I finally got it to work right. Course, if I had to take the carb off for any kind of adjustment the process started all over again. This bracket I got from Mancini looks really good (hopefully it works good too). I'll def post pics when I get it done. Car is high up on stands right now since I have the wheels and tires off. Getting a new set of shoes for it Friday that will hopefully work better with the gears and converter I'm currently running.
 
Another vote on Teflon tape.

Stroker I don't know whats on the the ends of those temp sensors but it isn't the squeeze out the tube silicone.
 
It might be an interesting note to those of you that remember a previous thread of mine. I had trouble with the car laying over at 5K rpms. Well an interesting piece of evidence came to light while tearing it apart. I was running a carb spacer (one of the cheap adapter kind) to push the air cleaner up into the six pack scoop. Apparently it didn't match my intake very well as there was a huge gap on both sides of the primaries. This likely had a lot to do with why I couldn't get the idle down, thus forcing me to run less timing at idle (and consequently total timing). Plus it probably caused me to run super lean on the top end. The plugs always looked great (that and it only see's 5k at the track), I'm willing to bet this played a significant role in why the car hasn't been running as hard as it should.
 
Permatex and Loctite make actual thread sealants for automotive uses, I'm surprised no one else has mentioned it yet...
 
Making progress. Lost some time today cause I had to clean my work benches off some, it was terrible. Lost Friday also since I had to go get new tires for my truck, but I got new tires for the Dart at the same time, hopefully they will match my setup better. They certainly look better IMO. Please ignore my nasty engine bay, I promise I will clean it after I get the car buttoned up.

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Also ordered a 650 Speed Demon carb for it on Tuesday. Should match the cam and intake a little better then the Road Demon that was on it, plus now I have a Road Demon for my truck!
 
Lars said:
Making progress. Lost some time today cause I had to clean my work benches off some, it was terrible. Lost Friday also since I had to go get new tires for my truck, but I got new tires for the Dart at the same time, hopefully they will match my setup better. They certainly look better IMO. Please ignore my nasty engine bay, I promise I will clean it after I get the car buttoned up.
Also ordered a 650 Speed Demon carb for it on Tuesday. Should match the cam and intake a little better then the Road Demon that was on it, plus now I have a Road Demon for my truck!
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How did you get the airgap looking so clean? What did you use on it?
 
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