T 56 swap question

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You're using stuff designed for the Challenger, i'm saying you didnt have too.
 
You're using stuff designed for the Challenger, i'm saying you didnt have too.

Well damn why didn't I now this sooner :violent1:, have you actually done this swap with a twindisc and what bell and clutch did you use? That's very good info to know and will be passing it on on the dodge ram forums.
 
I have not yet, but I did do it with a BB and Viper trans with a single disc clutch. I had to use a .460" spacer under the throwout bearing for clutch clearance. On the Gen III Hemi I'm gonna use a McLeod 6913-07 rst dual disc clutch that happens to be a Mustang application and is a stock replacement although no Mustangs had dual disc clutches. The SB Mopar to Viper T56 bellhousing is gonna work fine just without one bolt. Here is the McLeod's description and they dont say much but you can see that the clutch cover is alot more shallow to accommodate the extra disc and floater plate.
http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/rst-clutch-pns-9993.html
 
Mocked up a few things for you. The 6913-07 and flywheel bolted together approx. 3.75" thick. Then the whole assembly inside the Quicktime bell has plenty of room but I need to put in a thinner T/O bearing spacer or not run one at all, but other than that its a go.
 

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Thanks for the info, looked all over for a proper pic of a tr6060 input shaft, guess I suck at the internet since I didn't find it. :)

Haha!!! I've sucked at the internet plenty of times, the worst is when the internet LIES!!! sometimes it costs, sometimes it doesn't!!!
 
You should see if ACT has a thinner floater plate. That would make the clutch package more compact. I know that is the difference between a Challenger McLeod RST and the one I'm gonna use. Also the Challenger TR6060 and the Viper T56 have same input shaft length.
 
You should see if ACT has a thinner floater plate. That would make the clutch package more compact. I know that is the difference between a Challenger McLeod RST and the one I'm gonna use. Also the Challenger TR6060 and the Viper T56 have same input shaft length.

Wow, good suggestion. Would be very simple and effective...
 
Wow, good suggestion. Would be very simple and effective...

Probably quite expensive too, and maybe a thinner plate will warp easier? Never thought of that to be honest, the floater plate is already quite thin, maybe 5mm/0.2".


Got another question specifically for a srt10 viper trans, when I disassembled the reverse idler gear located in the tailhousing there was only the gear on the shaft. Now when I check the manual, the tremec manual speaks of two thrust washers on in front and one in the back of the gear, the dodge exploded parts view speaks of a thrust washer behind and a snap ring in front of the idler gear, and the official dodge workshop manual speaks of only the thrust washer behind the idler gear? My question is wich one is correct?

Reverse gear idler is numbers 16 to 22 on below picture.

ScreenShot2014-09-07at211328_zpsb1a9f502.png
 
Your diagram is of an early GM T56. Your T56 has a one piece countershaft. Also here is a pic of a Challenger RST clutch on the left and a "normal" RST on the right.
http://www.speedysgarage.net/challe...de/images/challenger_mcleod_update_02_web.jpg

I thought as much, even the OEM official mopar exploded parts view of the dodge ram series shows a 2 piece countershaft so they are not correct. Therefore I'm not sure as to what washers I have to put on the reverse idler gear shaft? Anyone have any hands on experience and knows what washers go on the shaft?
 
Anyone have a picture of the spacer they are using? I can have steel laser cut I'm and I'm thinking I can get a few cut at different thicknesses. Or just supply 1/2" ones.

Riddler
 
Give me a couple days and I can measure mine, which is what I used with your pressure plate behind a BB. I used aluminum, but the dual disc is gonna need a thinner one it looks like.
 
Give me a couple days and I can measure mine, which is what I used with your pressure plate behind a BB. I used aluminum, but the dual disc is gonna need a thinner one it looks like.

Thanks! That should make it easier for me to have one cut. Steel or aluminum? Does it matter in this instance? Doubtful!

Riddler
 
When they're in the 1/2" thick range i'd say yeah! Plus the trans and tob are aluminum already.
 
I use a water jet place fairly local to me for cutting out things in both steel and aluminum. They did my half inch aluminum spacer for my starter. Came out perfect...
 
Wish I had a place that could do that. I really need a spacer for my T56. I bought my clutch from 72BBSwinger.. Maybe if I beg enough he might sell me the one he had cut.

wink wink

Riddler
 
I updated the T56 swap thread with its dimensions. Hopefully I will know if I cant use it soon. You will also need to make sure it is what you need first.
 
I updated the T56 swap thread with its dimensions. Hopefully I will know if I cant use it soon. You will also need to make sure it is what you need first.

How do I do that? Just bolt it up on the floor and see if it touched the fingers of the pressure plate?

Riddler
 
You collapse the TOB all the way while its on the trans, and measure from the mounting flange of the trans to the TOB's face. Then with the clutch and bellhousing installed to engine, you measure from PP fingers to trans mounting flange of bellhousing. This is the clearance of TOB to clutch when its all together. I shoot for .120, some guys say .100, some say .100 minumum to .200 max. This video shows the just of the measuring process. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7S746x3o3Q#t=190"]Quarter Master® Quick Tech Video: Properly Setting Throwout Bearing Clearance - YouTube[/ame]
 
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