Taking a poll about which drivetrain I should use

which drivetrain should I use in my numbers matching 70 duster?

  • Rebuild original drivetrain

    Votes: 49 46.7%

  • Take drivetrain from a 74 dart that only has 36,000 orignal miles on it

    Votes: 17 16.2%

  • sell 74 dart drivetrain to fund the rebuild on the original 70 duster drivetrain

    Votes: 39 37.1%
  • Total voters
    105
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70-duster

70-duster

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I have 3 options here. The first is to take the 318 and 904 out of my 70 duster and have it rebuilt. Right now the car is numbers matching with the exception that I am adding buckets and a console (shifter is already on the floor) and am adding power disc brakes to the car.
Option 2: take the 318 and 904 out of this 74 dart that only has 36,000 original miles on it.
Both motors run now, but the 904 in the dart actually shifts right and the dusters does not.

Option 3: sell the drivetrain out of the dart to pay for the rebuild on the dusters original drivetrain.

Is a 70 drivetrain better than a 74 would be my only other question, other than resale value?
 
Option 4. Take the engine and trans out of the Duster. Set it aside. Install
the engine and trans from the Dart. But this way you can build up this set up.
That way you can go better with the drivetrain in there. then have the
orignal set up for resale in the future. Just my opinion.
:burnout:
 
Option 5: Take out and preserve the origonal engine/tranny and drop in a nice 340 or 360 behind a 904 or better yet a stroker. Install a SG 8 3/4. enjoy.

Don't know your budget.
 
is it currently running???

before engine work, its a good idea to upgrade to large bolt pattern disc brakes, rebuild and upgrade the suspension with some stiffer torsion bars, new bushings, shocks, and a sway bar...then tackle your engine and tranny.....
 
Hi. I would pick option three because a matching numbers car is worth more than a mismatch. Definitely when your motor is out check your rubber bushings from the torsion bar and lower control arm. Also, what I did when I had mine all apart, I fixed the leak in my power steering unit.

If you're thinking about changing the whole drive train I suggest getting a 340 or 360 with a 727 behind it. Of course, you have to change your drive shaft. A nice 8 3/4 rear end would help a lot. :)

On an unrelated topic, just wondering, does anyone know how to put a profile picture up? Or is it because I'm a junior member?
 
Both engines run. I am going to stick with the original 318 and 904 cause I have all the parts already. I bought this car for my girlfriend to drive eventually. I got it cheap. My budget is pretty tight cause I have a 71 challenger to finish and a 67 belvedere II to do as well.
 
I agree w/ option 4. This assumes the 74 Dart is being parted. If so, save the front suspension and disk brakes and the rear-end from the Dart for a later upgrade. Keep the 70 original since it adds much more to the value than you could get from selling it, assuming you have room to store it.

If you are also installing the rear-end from the 74 now, I assume you know the wheels have a different bolt pattern, so you need 2 spare tires. In that case, better to bite the whole enchilada and install the 74 front suspension now too.
 
Curious why you want to kick a 36,000 mile car in the head, but I'd use EVERYTHING from the Dart if it's a disc brake car including the spool mount K and electronic ignition. Even if it's not, the motor/trans would make for a sweet running everyday driver. Ebrock Performer and mid 70's Thermoquad added in when you got around to it would make for a nice upgrade on the stock two barrel without ruining fuel mileage.
Pull the original motor/trans out, crate it, and stick it under a bench in the garage. That way if you ever decided having the car numbers matching was important to you, you could rebuild and stick the original drivetrain back in.
 
I'd just use the 74 drive train and put together a car to drive and enjoy.
A numbers-matching drive train is meaningless unless the car is a bone stock restoration, it sure sounds like you're planning a modified car. I fail to understand the value of matching numbers on a 318/904 car, it's not a Hemi Cuda after all. In 1970, 318 Dusters were common as dirt. If you really think the original drive train has any value, seal it up in plastic, stick it in a corner of the garage and trip over it for the rest of your life.
Anyone who takes offence at my comments, please remember that the OP asked for opinions, this just happens to be mine!
 
briankaplan said:
option 4. Take the engine and trans out of the duster. Set it aside. Install
the engine and trans from the dart. But this way you can build up this set up.
That way you can go better with the drivetrain in there. Then have the
orignal set up for resale in the future. Just my opinion.
:burnout:
Click to expand...

x2
 
I have to agree with everyone option 4 is the way to go.
 
lrazor said:
i'd just use the 74 drive train and put together a car to drive and enjoy.
A numbers-matching drive train is meaningless unless the car is a bone stock restoration, it sure sounds like you're planning a modified car. I fail to understand the value of matching numbers on a 318/904 car, it's not a hemi cuda after all. In 1970, 318 dusters were common as dirt. If you really think the original drive train has any value, seal it up in plastic, stick it in a corner of the garage and trip over it for the rest of your life.
Anyone who takes offence at my comments, please remember that the op asked for opinions, this just happens to be mine!
Click to expand...




x2
 
Irazor, I did ask for opinions, what I didn't ask was if everyone thinks I should just throw my duster in the garbage because it is not a hemi cuda. I don't care what anyone says, a numbers matching car in any make, model, engine type, transmission, etc, will always bring more money than a car that is not. and that is not an opinion, that is a fact.
Now back to what I came on here for. Thank you all for your input. I think I figured out what I want to do.
 
70-duster said:
Irazor, I did ask for opinions, what I didn't ask was if everyone thinks I should just throw my duster in the garbage because it is not a hemi cuda. I don't care what anyone says, a numbers matching car in any make, model, engine type, transmission, etc, will always bring more money than a car that is not. and that is not an opinion, that is a fact.
Now back to what I came on here for. Thank you all for your input. I think I figured out what I want to do.
Click to expand...
This is horsekaki.In todays market a #,s matching 318/904/7 1/4 will never fetch the money of the same car modified with a 340 or 360,440,426 a new trans with 8 3/4 or Dana.Also throw in an Alterkation upgrade and the value just keeps increasing.A 70 Duster 318 car is only worth $3-6000 depending on condition in todays market.This is just my opinion,which you asked for.
 
twofosho said:
Curious why you want to kick a 36,000 mile car in the head, but I'd use EVERYTHING from the Dart if it's a disc brake car including the spool mount K and electronic ignition. Even if it's not, the motor/trans would make for a sweet running everyday driver. Ebrock Performer and mid 70's Thermoquad added in when you got around to it would make for a nice upgrade on the stock two barrel without ruining fuel mileage.
Pull the original motor/trans out, crate it, and stick it under a bench in the garage. That way if you ever decided having the car numbers matching was important to you, you could rebuild and stick the original drivetrain back in.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what i would do.
And yeah, why part out a low miler?
 
pettybludart said:
This is horsekaki.In todays market a #,s matching 318/904/7 1/4 will never fetch the money of the same car modified with a 340 or 360,440,426 a new trans with 8 3/4 or Dana.Also throw in an Alterkation upgrade and the value just keeps increasing.A 70 Duster 318 car is only worth $3-6000 depending on condition in todays market.This is just my opinion,which you asked for.
Click to expand...

No disrespect to the guy manufacturing them, but I don't consider Mustang II suspension an upgrade. A expensive 2500 (I'm guessing) dollar lateral move that won't handle any better and probably not as well as carefully thought out upgrades to the stock suspension perhaps, done because the owner just can't figure out how to package the desired replacement engine with those pesky torsion bars.
Ditto at the rear, mother Mopar designed the leaf spring rear so well to begin with, that the right springs and upgraded shocks, coupled with a stock type body mounted rear stabilizer bar and a carefully designed and crafted panhard rod will run with coil spring, four bar setups costing four times as much. I don't even see much if any advantage in the torque arm setups the late model Camaro and Mustang players are putting stock in.
 
use the 74 low mileage drive train
the 70 engine does not have unleaded valve seats, the 74 does
 
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