"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
He's ignores the fan issue. He Has All the info he needs, he just needs to act.. jmo
^^^THIS !
He's ignores the fan issue. He Has All the info he needs, he just needs to act.. jmo
I am about to give up and put the car in long term storage, I have an overheating problem which came out of nowhere and it seems like I cant affect it at all. I only have one more trick up my sleeve. Tomorrow I will be booking the car into a garage that is going to take samples of the coolant and determine if there are high levels of co2 in it (ie. leaking head gasket or a crack in the block/head)
------The engine:------
¤ Motor: Chrysler Smallblock 360ci - 5.9L
¤ Heads: 915J machined to 56.8 CC Std 1.88 / 1.60 valves, compression 9,8:1
¤ Cam: CompCams Xtreme Energy XE262
¤ Carb: Carter ThermoQuad
¤ Intake: Edelbrock aluminiumintake
¤ Ignition: Mallory
¤ Transmission: Torqueflite 727
¤ Exhaust: Doug`s long tube headers, 2.5"system
-----The cooling system:-----
¤ Radiator: Big *** aftermarket aluminum one (think its actually for a 96 ford mustang) so big that I had to widen the frame a little to make it fit
¤ Overflow tank: Nissan s14
¤ Fan: Not sure what size, pretty big anyway
-----The problem:-----
¤ The car overheats while standing still or moving at a constant speed for example 45mph
¤ It takes under 10 minutes of driving at constant 45mph to get to 220 Fahrenheit
¤ If the car stands idling it gets to 220 from a cold engine pretty quickly too
¤ If you keep driving or idling it will just keep rising from 220
-----When the problem started:-----
¤ The car came with the original cooling system (4 years ago now) and would overheat once in a blue moon I dont know why.
¤ I upgraded the cooling system (2 years ago) and it never overheated, well, it did a few times but I had the timing to lean
¤ The car has stood still two years with the engine out while I did suspension upgrades. After putting in all back together the car now has a massive overheating problem. The following was done to the engine when out:
1. Changed some freeze plugs
2. Re tapped the manifold bolt hole which goes into the cooling system (front right farthest from driver)
3. Re built the carburetor (it is tuned well, not running too rich/lean)
-----What I have tried doing already:-----
¤ Run with/without thermostat, have even tried with various restrictions to flow
¤ Checked that the lower radiator hose does not collapse stopping flow
¤ Tried putting ignition to very rich-lean and everywhere inbetween
¤ Checked that the temperature gauge is not off with an I.R thermometer
¤ Tightened all the hose clamps for the cooling system
¤ Taken apart the cooling system checked if hoses were ok
¤ Checked the water pump (it was totally fine)
¤ Checked that the radiator is not clogged
¤ Replaced the cooling system with the original cooling system, radiator etc. (same result)
¤ FYI The engine has been flushed a couple of years ago
¤ Compression tested the engine biggest difference between two was 11.2 Bar and 10.3 Bar
Does anybody have any theories? If there is no co2 in the coolant and if maybe changing spark plugs doesnt make a difference I will be giving up and parking the car for the next few years, which kinda sucks after spending so much time and money.
View attachment 1715187128
View attachment 1715187129
View attachment 1715187130
View attachment 1715187131
I would try changing the diameter of my water pump pulleyI am about to give up and put the car in long term storage, I have an overheating problem which came out of nowhere and it seems like I cant affect it at all. I only have one more trick up my sleeve. Tomorrow I will be booking the car into a garage that is going to take samples of the coolant and determine if there are high levels of co2 in it (ie. leaking head gasket or a crack in the block/head)
------The engine:------
¤ Motor: Chrysler Smallblock 360ci - 5.9L
¤ Heads: 915J machined to 56.8 CC Std 1.88 / 1.60 valves, compression 9,8:1
¤ Cam: CompCams Xtreme Energy XE262
¤ Carb: Carter ThermoQuad
¤ Intake: Edelbrock aluminiumintake
¤ Ignition: Mallory
¤ Transmission: Torqueflite 727
¤ Exhaust: Doug`s long tube headers, 2.5"system
-----The cooling system:-----
¤ Radiator: Big *** aftermarket aluminum one (think its actually for a 96 ford mustang) so big that I had to widen the frame a little to make it fit
¤ Overflow tank: Nissan s14
¤ Fan: Not sure what size, pretty big anyway
-----The problem:-----
¤ The car overheats while standing still or moving at a constant speed for example 45mph
¤ It takes under 10 minutes of driving at constant 45mph to get to 220 Fahrenheit
¤ If the car stands idling it gets to 220 from a cold engine pretty quickly too
¤ If you keep driving or idling it will just keep rising from 220
-----When the problem started:-----
¤ The car came with the original cooling system (4 years ago now) and would overheat once in a blue moon I dont know why.
¤ I upgraded the cooling system (2 years ago) and it never overheated, well, it did a few times but I had the timing to lean
¤ The car has stood still two years with the engine out while I did suspension upgrades. After putting in all back together the car now has a massive overheating problem. The following was done to the engine when out:
1. Changed some freeze plugs
2. Re tapped the manifold bolt hole which goes into the cooling system (front right farthest from driver)
3. Re built the carburetor (it is tuned well, not running too rich/lean)
-----What I have tried doing already:-----
¤ Run with/without thermostat, have even tried with various restrictions to flow
¤ Checked that the lower radiator hose does not collapse stopping flow
¤ Tried putting ignition to very rich-lean and everywhere inbetween
¤ Checked that the temperature gauge is not off with an I.R thermometer
¤ Tightened all the hose clamps for the cooling system
¤ Taken apart the cooling system checked if hoses were ok
¤ Checked the water pump (it was totally fine)
¤ Checked that the radiator is not clogged
¤ Replaced the cooling system with the original cooling system, radiator etc. (same result)
¤ FYI The engine has been flushed a couple of years ago
¤ Compression tested the engine biggest difference between two was 11.2 Bar and 10.3 Bar
Does anybody have any theories? If there is no co2 in the coolant and if maybe changing spark plugs doesnt make a difference I will be giving up and parking the car for the next few years, which kinda sucks after spending so much time and money.
View attachment 1715187128
View attachment 1715187129
View attachment 1715187130
View attachment 1715187131
So, I left the car to a very good mechanic last month who has been trying to solve this problem. He started going through everything I had already done and some more.
He says there was garbage blocking some coolant passages which he found after pressure testing it. Unfortunately he says that the block is cracked/rusted through somewhere as well..
This makes a lot of sense to me, the way it was overheating regardless of running conditions implies it is not a fan issue for example.
Thanks for the help!
Those factory 7 blade a/c cams pull some air indeed.
did you check for any corrosion blockage of your water pump/timing chain cover (long term storage) caused a corrosion problem in minewhat a mess, glad your finaly getting it figured out
did you check for any corrosion blockage of your water pump/timing chain cover (long term storage) caused a corrosion problem in mine
well,---my 1969 340 barracuda has a overheating problem !! upon investigation/tear down concluded to the fact that the passages in the timing cover/water pump housing are corroded shut .... cleaned them out with a scraper and a shop vac. not sure if there is enough (meat) on the passenger side to seal the pump properly//half way to a timing chain check,,,
90% of these "overheating" posts have one thing in common. A small electric fan such as yours, which is totally inadequate
Wow. Just wow. Chrysler NEVER had OE cooling issues. So we are going to swap in some unengineered junk, use a cheap assed electric fan that at best is in the way and blocking flow at speed and is most likely just worthless and then wonder why there are cooling issues.
Now, I just read some dude says the block is cracked somewhere, so he did some "welding" on it!!!! WTF?? To weld cast iron and do it correctly you need preheat, post heat and a controlled cool down process. And it will still warp the crap out of every surface and hole in the block.
This is a mess. If the block was broke it should have been replaced.
The radiator should go into the scrap bin, replaced by a radiator designed to fit the chassis, with TWO cores and no more of at least 1 inch.
Ditch that junk fan and use a good, belt driven fan. The power you THINK you save is ate up and them some by the fact you can't control engine temp.
Buy a real, high flow water pump and thermostat. That's a Milodon or Flowkooler pump and a Stewart Componants thermostat.
Then, make sure your water pump is turning FASTER than the crank. Overdrive the water pump, just like Chrysler did.
You do that, you'll be able to drive through hell with lucifer in the passenger seat and stay at 180.
What a mess.
Wow. Just wow. Chrysler NEVER had OE cooling issues. So we are going to swap in some unengineered junk, use a cheap assed electric fan that at best is in the way and blocking flow at speed and is most likely just worthless and then wonder why there are cooling issues.
Now, I just read some dude says the block is cracked somewhere, so he did some "welding" on it!!!! WTF?? To weld cast iron and do it correctly you need preheat, post heat and a controlled cool down process. And it will still warp the crap out of every surface and hole in the block.
This is a mess. If the block was broke it should have been replaced.
The radiator should go into the scrap bin, replaced by a radiator designed to fit the chassis, with TWO cores and no more of at least 1 inch.
Ditch that junk fan and use a good, belt driven fan. The power you THINK you save is ate up and them some by the fact you can't control engine temp.
Buy a real, high flow water pump and thermostat. That's a Milodon or Flowkooler pump and a Stewart Componants thermostat.
Then, make sure your water pump is turning FASTER than the crank. Overdrive the water pump, just like Chrysler did.
You do that, you'll be able to drive through hell with lucifer in the passenger seat and stay at 180.
What a mess.
No matter how much you and a lot of other people want to blame the fan, it has no effect at 50mph, its a physical impossibility. Sorry.
The crack at the bottom of the block was welded properly by someone who specializes in welding cast.
I now have the car back and does not overheat running or standing still with precisely the same parts as before.
Had I gone with your solution to just swap in non OE "junk" I would have a lighter wallet and a car that still overheats chronically. Now that would have been a true mess.
Overall great thread for cooling issues. Glad the OP got it sorted out. It is funny about all the comments about the "bad" electric fan. Its like everyone who said it was bad missed the part where at speed, it still overheated. And then it turns out to be a bad head gasket install blocking water and now the "bad" fan is working right. Let that be a lesson to some of you.
its not bullshit if the wrong gasket was used:I have news. A "bad" gasket is gullshit. "Bad gaskets" have been post fodder forever. All head gaskets on V engines have differences between left and right sides and "they work just fine." That is by design. I've no idea what the REAL answer was, here, but it wasn't "a bad gasket."
It is bulshit if you don't even know what you're talking about. Don't come here knowing nothing about it and start telling people you hope they learned their lesson that is so lame .The gaskets only go on one way no matter what side you put the head gasket on it'll always be right because of the offset dowel pin holes. It's supposed to block the front coolant passage cuz it wants it all to go up into the back of the heads and then forward and out the thermostat housing. That's how the cooling system was designed!its not bullshit if the wrong gasket was used:
He took the heads off and found that whoever build the engine put a gasket on that was blocking a coolant passage, see pictures.
Post 111