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Conch27

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Well I have truly enjoyed my first two seasons of drag racing with my 318 valiant. It is now time for my winter projects and to build up for next season. So what I have done is trade my valiant for a 69 road runner drag car roller. Has everything but a motor, trans, and shifter. I plan to keep this car and race far more events next summer. The car ran 9's and is a pretty nice start. What I need now is a motor and trans set up. I would like to run a similar time to my dad in his 41 Willys. He runs a 10.5. That would be fun to be in the same class. I want to put a 440 in it since that is what it came with. I will run a 727 also. Car has 4.56 gears, spool, cage, msd 7, lots of fiberglass parts and frame connectors. So it is done for my purposes. I would like to know what you all think I would need to get to my time goals out of a 440. I do not have a motor yet so are there certain years I should go for? Also how would you build it. I was thinking a 600hp build would do it. Thanks for your time
 
What rear suspension is under it? We had a ladder bar car at 3,000lbs with around 650hp that went 10.30's. It honestly had too much gear and could have run a little better with less but it launched very well and would 60' 1.30's
 
My 2 cents. Build a stroker shortblock as it will make you're goals easily attainable with room for more power depending on what you start with. Bought a 68 Dart race car roller myself earlier this year. Just finished my first 727 build for it. Working on a 451 now. It's a 400 block with a 440 crank cut to fit. 400 blocks are supposed to be a little stronger than 440's. Looking for mid-tens myself.
 
A good basic,well done 440.Use Eddy RPM's (ported),or the Eddy Victors.(***** in,with a good valve job.).
 
so mid to low 10's is your final goal? If so that can be done with the above mentioned heads and you'd still be able to run a flat tappet cam which will keep the cost down considerably. Depending on tire size those 4.56 gears might be a little deep. I had an RB in my old car that was incredibly dependable and gave us a best of 9.93. Stock unfilled block, stock rods with MP bolts, stock main caps with ARP studs. Stock crank welded and stroked to 4.15. Light piston set at zero deck and not an overly large port Stage VI heads coupled with an old Ultradyne NF-69 mech cam topped off with a carb shop dominator. Incredibly consistent, and gave us years of good service. It was pretty boring with a shift light set at 5600 and trapping at 6200. Torque!!
 
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