Thermostat Gasket

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I found was the thermostat rattles around loose in the housing. Think this is the result of the Real Gasket thickness… or is that normal for std gaskets too
I did not have that issue.
 
I have great luck with Real Gasket thermostat gaskets... The valve cover gaskets, not so much. I also found that thermostat housings (Dorman?) from NAPA come in Cast iron instead of aluminum much less likely to warp and a brand new machined surface - worth the cost.
 
Real Gasket worked for me 3 years ago, but when I went to a Flowkooler water pump, it blew the gasket out 2 times in a row. I then changed to a Flashpower o-ringed thermostat housing, no leaks or blowouts since.

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Maybe my thermostat housing has a cavity for the thermostat that is is larger than it needs to be… thought it was an aftermarket one that was true to the original specs/sizes.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am thinking I am going to just run it as is. Engine run temps are good and I have seen some people even drill a small hole in the thermostat for other reasons without adverse effects
 
There are different size diameter thermostats. Thermostats should not rattle or move around.
 
What I discovered years ago was that after flatening the surfaces, the relief in the alloy stat house was not deep enough to receive the stat, and the stat would keep the two flat surfaces apart. It worked fine for awhile, but eventually would blow out, as the housing eventually warped downwards around it.
The cure was to flatten it again and cut the stat-cavity deeper. After I learned that, I prepped a few spares, but never needed them.
FYI,
Another thing I eventually did, after I had a solid-working system, is I installed a 7 pound cap. My hoses are now, all of them over 20 years old, some are 24yo and AFAIK the lower intake hose is an early 1970s model. IIRC the newest hose is the bypass hose, installed in around 2002.
 
Just wanted to say that after having a leaking thermostat housing gasket, tried three damn times. I finally got it done with the Real Gasket Tennessee, made of silicone. I had filed, and sanded both the housing and intake surfaces, to no avail. So I sent off for the silicone gasket, cleaned the surfaces, no sealer is used, insalled it and the torque range is 20-25 in lbs. Which is pretty light, no more leak, and it is reusable. Damn I like it when something actually does what it says. It was worth every penny and more.
Bet ur like me and always overtightened the dam things and distorted the housing /causing it to leak ...
 
I tried tightening it down from light to too much, didn't matter. Sanded housing flat, filed the intake, never had these issues that I remember from working at a garage for awhile in the late 60's, early 70's. The o-ringed housing is the fix, I have never had to mess with the damn thing since. Torqued in inch lbs, don't remember how much, not out in the garage.
 
I tried tightening it down from light to too much, didn't matter. Sanded housing flat, filed the intake, never had these issues that I remember from working at a garage for awhile in the late 60's, early 70's. The o-ringed housing is the fix, I have never had to mess with the damn thing since. Torqued in inch lbs, don't remember how much, not out in the garage.
Same here but with the Real Gasket. I did not do much to the manifold but block of wood with sand paper on it and a new repo cast Al t-stat housing. Installed it dry and 25 inch lbs or what ever it is. and not a drop since 2017 and 16 lb cap.

Something I also did was to be sure there was nothing in the T-Stat mounting holes and that the bolts can bottom on the housing without a gasket before they bottom in the hole. I suspect several leaking T-stat housings, that is the #1 issue, tightening against the bottom of the hole not the housing.
 
Another shout out for the Real Gasket. The final straw was when a Felpro de-laminated and leaked through with ultra black rtv on both sides of it......
 
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