Thermostat or no thermostat?

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darc1722

darc1722

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Just rebuilt my 318, is a thermostat needed in a warm climate? Will the engine run cooler without the thermostat any difference? Appreciate your thoughts, thanks.
 
The engine will not run cooler and it will take longer to reach optimum operating temperature so it will affect your engine in a negative way. run the thermostat.
 
Running without a thermostat will not give your radiator a fighting chance to cool down the fluid you have in it. Try running a 160 stat before you try running nothing. Make sure you run a water/coolant mix ,the water with help activate the coolant.
 
The thermostats job is to make sure your engine does not run too cool.

Running without one will mean that it will take longer to warm up and it will not be able to maintain proper air fuel mixture or timing etc etc.
 
And if it does not have one, drill a bleed hole in the stat. Regardless, I ALWAYS pull the heater hose connection close to the stat (not the pump) off at the heater so the system will fill.

In a previous life, over at Moparts, I got into a HUGE argument about "how big" was acceptable. I can assure you that a 1/8" hole is NOT gonna adversely affect the system. Many factory bleeds are larger than that.

2009-05-23_164040_hole_in_thermostat.jpg
 
A thermostat has 2 jobs, the first is obviously to control temperature. The second is to control coolant flow rate ie. an orifice. Take the thermostat out and the coolant will not have the time it takes to pull the heat away from the block or have the time it takes to transfer that heat to the rad core. Worse case everything gets hotter than hell.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
A thermostat is not optional equipment.
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X2, It serves 2 jobs, getting the engine up to proper temperature and slows the flow down to cool the water while it is in the radiator.
It is not optional equipment :thumleft: well said 1968FormulaS340 :cheers:
 
Even hotter 195 degree thermostat is typical for new engines. If the engine doesn't run hot enough you'll have what looks like black candle wax caked up on everything under the valve covers.
 
Yes..done deal. and get one with a wobbler in it (hole) or make your own.
 
There is also a choice of asking for a thermostat, that when it fails, it will fail "open",, thus avoiding a potentially damaging and inconvenient "overheat"..
 
67Dart273 said:
And if it does not have one, drill a bleed hole in the stat. Regardless, I ALWAYS pull the heater hose connection close to the stat (not the pump) off at the heater so the system will fill.

In a previous life, over at Moparts, I got into a HUGE argument about "how big" was acceptable. I can assure you that a 1/8" hole is NOT gonna adversely affect the system. Many factory bleeds are larger than that.
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I agree, I put bleed holes in mine as well. My system works flawlessly. I usually use a 1/4" hole positioned opposite one another on the ring of the stat.
 
I know Im gonna sound stupid here, but they say there are no stupid questions.. but what is the purpose of putting a 'bleed hole' in the ring of the stat? Looking for some education here lol
 
Badsport said:
I agree, I put bleed holes in mine as well. My system works flawlessly. I usually use a 3/8" hole positioned opposite one another on the ring of the stat.
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I'll bet on some cold days, your thermostat never opens.... you're just trying to bleed a little air.. lol

When filling an empty cooling system, the bleed hole allows air to get past the thermostat, which usually will trap an air bubble until the thermostat opens, the trapped bubble will usually "surge" a load of coolant out the rad filler, wasting a ton of coolant, but also allows the engine to overheat to some degree, while its waiting for that opening...

is just way better to vent first,, can also take the top (intake manifold hose) heater hose off, and vent there while filling.
 
inertia said:
I'll bet on some cold days, your thermostat never opens.... you're just trying to bleed a little air.. lol
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I'm sure it does. My car rarely is driven on cold days, in fact it hasn't been out yet this year. It does take about 5-6 minutes to get to 180* on the gauge.

And I meant to say 1/4" holes, don't know why I put 3/8" in there.
 
inertia said:
I'll bet on some cold days, your thermostat never opens.... you're just trying to bleed a little air.. lol

When filling an empty cooling system, the bleed hole allows air to get past the thermostat, which usually will trap an air bubble until the thermostat opens, the trapped bubble will usually "surge" a load of coolant out the rad filler, wasting a ton of coolant, but also allows the engine to overheat to some degree, while its waiting for that opening...

is just way better to vent first,, can also take the top (intake manifold hose) heater hose off, and vent there while filling.
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Thank you sir... That actually makes a lot of sense.. I had never heard of it.. Next time I change my thermostat, I am gonna put one of those in
 
SpeedracerX said:
I know Im gonna sound stupid here, but they say there are no stupid questions.. but what is the purpose of putting a 'bleed hole' in the ring of the stat? Looking for some education here lol
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Helps bleed air out when filling with coolant. It is ALSO why I 'preach' to remove the heater hose next to the stat. This creates a massive large hole to allow air to burp out as you fill the system.
 
67Dart273 said:
And if it does not have one, drill a bleed hole in the stat. Regardless, I ALWAYS pull the heater hose connection close to the stat (not the pump) off at the heater so the system will fill.

In a previous life, over at Moparts, I got into a HUGE argument about "how big" was acceptable. I can assure you that a 1/8" hole is NOT gonna adversely affect the system. Many factory bleeds are larger than that.

2009-05-23_164040_hole_in_thermostat.jpg
Click to expand...

So true, Amen Brother. No lets talk what Tempature. I alway run 190 regardless but, I have a Be Cool rad & electric flex lite that kicks in at 180.
 
darc1722 said:
Just rebuilt my 318, is a thermostat needed in a warm climate? Will the engine run cooler without the thermostat any difference? Appreciate your thoughts, thanks.
Click to expand...

I use none in the summer--like right now, ha ha. Motor still warms up quick to around 140--150 and then hangs out around 160--170 once you are driving it hard. No worries last summer in 90 degree heat, even at long red lights.

I recall when my local PD used Mopars in the mid 1980's, their engines idle at 140 degrees forever. Bet they had no T stat either. I knew cause they had after market gauges and the water temp was a 5 inch gauge right in the center near the pd radio...

The last thing you want is a stuck close t stat in hot pursuit, ha ha

Anyhow, I got 4,500 miles on my 340, most times it has no t stat and motor still is nice and tight, burns no oil and runs great and I sure don't baby it...6,000 plus in top gear its done many of times
 
wickduster said:
Running without a thermostat will not give your radiator a fighting chance to cool down the fluid you have in it. Try running a 160 stat before you try running nothing. Make sure you run a water/coolant mix ,the water with help activate the coolant.
Click to expand...

That is a myth, least on my car. I ran a 160 and over 80 degrees outside the temp creep up to 200 just at one long redlight. Now with no t stat at all, temp stay under 190 and it takes longer to get there.

Sure I could have got a $500 rad and $250 dual electric fans but just removing the t stat was the cheaper fix. This is why Mopars were so cool, they were cheap to run great..maybe the cross flow rads are better then the downflow rads chevy and fords use ?
 
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