So I finally got the pedals in Tara's dart and hooked everything up. The z bar isn't parallel to the fire wall, it's level but it sits farther back on the engine side. It was a total pain to put the z bar in and required lots of leverage. I do have the half shells in. The angles are not right for the bar that goes from the z bar to the clutch fork. I can use the pedal to engage the clutch but it does not return to the stop. In the pics I did not move the brake pedal I used it for reference. The pic of it all the way out is where the stop is and the other pic is where it returns to. I had two sets of pedals and two z bars that I got from two different people and they both claimed that they were v8. They are the same. The car was originally a /6. I don't have the fender bracket on the car yet, is the hole that is in the inner fenderwell for placement of the bracket? Does anyone have any ideas?
This can't be right! Z bar alignment
- Thread starter res1vw21
- Start date
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GTXperience
Orig Stealth Mod
What is the z bar out of?
1964 hippo
Well-Known Member
I think its out of a b-body looks to long . Should be center of the hole
not out to one side like that . is your peddel set right check the mounting brackit and see if you can adjust left or right . if not you may need to bend the linkage to the z bar. us a pipe or bench vice adjust the end of it to off set linkage . ?
not out to one side like that . is your peddel set right check the mounting brackit and see if you can adjust left or right . if not you may need to bend the linkage to the z bar. us a pipe or bench vice adjust the end of it to off set linkage . ?
The pedals do bolt to the master like they should so I don't think that they can move back and forth very much, but I will check. I think that because I don't have the bracket on the outside near the wheel it might be off. I might have an early '63-69 z bar, I just looked at Mancini and they have 2 a body part #'s. I think I will buy a bracket, put it in and see if it lines up differently. It might be that the hole I used is for lining up the bracket and you have to drill another hole for the z bar. Does any one have pics?
Here is a pick of the reinforcement plate I need, I notice it has 3 holes, what is the significance of the holes? How big is the plate? would one serve to line up with what I have for a hole right now and the other to be drilled for the z bar?
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
I had the same looking deal happen to my car. Z-bar was at a angle and the clutch peddle would go down and engage but would not return back up when I took my foot off of it. I found that the welds on that plate in the fender had come loos and was cosing the Z-bar to flex. I welded the plate back on and ajusted the clutch and all was well.
I don't know if that is wour problum or not but mabby with out that plate in there. The inner fender is not strong enouf to handel the Z-bar?
I would try getting the plate on there and seeing what hapens from there.
Good luck.
I don't know if that is wour problum or not but mabby with out that plate in there. The inner fender is not strong enouf to handel the Z-bar?
I would try getting the plate on there and seeing what hapens from there.
Good luck.
well it looks like I had 2 /6 z bars that both people claimed were v 8 bars. I ended up cutting 1" off the bell housing side to make it fit properly. I was also using the wrong ball stud mount, because I am using a '72+ bell housing, not a '67-'71 housing. Also the ball studs are different between the /6 and v8. I think I have the right stuff ordered from brewers. Thanks for the help.
The large collared ball stud is the /6 one the small collared one is the v8 one.
The L shaped ball stud bracket is the '68-'71 which is what I have, and the other one is the '72-up. It all depends on the bell housing.
The large collared ball stud is the /6 one the small collared one is the v8 one.
The L shaped ball stud bracket is the '68-'71 which is what I have, and the other one is the '72-up. It all depends on the bell housing.
cudaspaz
Well-Known Member
Brewers is good about getting you hooked up with the right parts.
The Z-bars are about $95.00 so if you still have issues, you may have to bend or weld a correctly angled linkage rod if you get the Z-bar straight but the linkage rods don't jive.
That's what I had to do and it works just flawlessly.
You pretty much work with many Z-bar configurations if you get creative and have access to a small welding outfit.
The Z-bars are about $95.00 so if you still have issues, you may have to bend or weld a correctly angled linkage rod if you get the Z-bar straight but the linkage rods don't jive.
That's what I had to do and it works just flawlessly.
You pretty much work with many Z-bar configurations if you get creative and have access to a small welding outfit.
Luckily fo me I can weld and have a nice Lincoln sp-170t. I hope the bar I have now will work, but if it doesn't there is always the cut and past option. I spent about 130 with brewers today and didn't buy a z bar, just other parts. stupid little parts....
dgc333
Well-Known Member
I had the same situation. I am using a \6 z-bar, the arms are in the same position as the small block along the tube in relation to the frame side of the bar and are in the same position in relation to each other. The difference is in the length of the tube with the \6 being longer so its was a siple matter of cutting about an inch off.
I too didn't know there was a different bracket for bell hosuing built after 72 and once I got the correct one the angle was correct.
I too didn't know there was a different bracket for bell hosuing built after 72 and once I got the correct one the angle was correct.
Just finished putting in my 4 speed and for some reason yours looks just like mine. The z bar is correct, because it came out of a friends 68 340 Cuda when he went to a BB. The ball was the biggest problem. I used a ball off of a /6 truck that had a wide bracket attached, kinda like the A body one. I had to use the bottom bolt and rotate the ball forward, then drill a new hole in the bracket. Reason for using truck ball, the A body bracket would bolt in using the top bolt, and rotate forward, but there was no material to drill in that area. Then I got anxious, tightened everything up and smashed the pedal, the fendewell tweeked a little because there was no support bracket attached to the frame. Another problem is the clutch rod was against the left side of the hole in the firewall, and seemed to be a bit short. Fortunately I have been collecting most anything 4 speed for a while, I had a clutch rod from a truck that actually centers in the hole and makes the adjustment rod from z bar to fork work great. It is a little long and may need to be shortened an inch to a 1/2 inch, but I have a welder and a chop saw for just such occasions. I have chopped clutch rods for other cars and always use a sleeve over the rod ends to connect/rienforce them.
I actually read one of your old posts and saw that you cut yours down, Then the light went on in my head and the sawzal came out. Thanks.
I am curious to see what happens with the parts I ordered, I know I won't be buying anything more. I too have been collecting 4spd stuff so I wonder what combo will work.
MOPAR - Many Odd Parts Assembled Randomly
3404spdvaliant
Banned
Yes there are different bell housings with diff mounting pads/brakets.
I had the pedal height problem also so I welded a 1 1/2 piece of stock in between the treads and eyelet.
Those pedals came out of what car? the clutch pedal looks too wide.
I had the pedal height problem also so I welded a 1 1/2 piece of stock in between the treads and eyelet.
Those pedals came out of what car? the clutch pedal looks too wide.
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