This linkage is giving me a headache

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MACKIN

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Have a A883 and I'm sue it's a A-body according to placement of the shifter mount on the tail.

I have a Hurst shifter and two sets of linkage and neither one will work. I set up everything in neutral and have a pin holding the shifter (1/4) per instructions in shop manual I have.

I can swap this and that and get it to run through 1-4 but the reverse linkage when put into reverse will not take it out of reverse.

PERHAPS I have the wrong spacer that goes between the shifter and mount. Perhaps i still have the wrong set of linkage rods. Does anyone know the correct part numbers for a Duster?

In addition when setting up neutral on the shifter I assume reverse lever on shifter goes forward for alignment?

I'm worn out and giving up. Ready to crack :pukeleft:
 
I have the sane problem, I have the Hurst mount and shifter. I have a bunch of old rods from my NP shifter and I ordered new ones for the hurst. The 1st thru 4th works fine, I can't get the reverse to line up. I gave up for a while and went back to building the motor. AARRGGH!
 
I have to swap the brackets around like it's a OD transmission to get them to work although. Did you get the new ones from Hurst yet?

For some reason I believe it's the shifter mount bracket as there are a few. IF it was set back some it might work with the rods I have.

What sucks is I have a shop manual too not Chilton or Hays but the same the dealer would of had. No help
 
In addition when setting up neutral on the shifter I assume reverse lever on shifter goes forward for alignment?

Nope, reverse has a hole in it for alignment too, it should be about middle ways of the travel. Sounds like that may be your problem since you can get reverse but can't disengage. It really does take all that travel for reverse.
 
grumpuscreature said:
In addition when setting up neutral on the shifter I assume reverse lever on shifter goes forward for alignment?

Nope, reverse has a hole in it for alignment too, it should be about middle ways of the travel. Sounds like that may be your problem since you can get reverse but can't disengage. It really does take all that travel for reverse.
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I
ll look again but seen nothing. The 1/4 in pin will only go through 2 of the shifter arms that hang down then you have to move the reverse arm either forward or back to get the pin straight through the housing. I really don't need the 1'4 inch pin ,I just was willing to try ANYTHING!

I'll check it again.
 
MACKIN said:
I have to swap the brackets around like it's a OD transmission to get them to work although. Did you get the new ones from Hurst yet?

For some reason I believe it's the shifter mount bracket as there are a few. IF it was set back some it might work with the rods I have.

What sucks is I have a shop manual too not Chilton or Hays but the same the dealer would of had. No help
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I ordered the rods from PG Classics, They are complete with the levers and bushings for a lot less then Hurst. I'm beginning to wonder if the shifter is the right one for the car. I had this on the shelf for 15 yrs, but it was sold as a a body shifter.
 
Put all 3 leavers on the trans in neutral..

Put the pin through ALL 3 leavers on the shifter (not just 2).

Put your rods on the shifter levers (one of the rods you may need to put on the shifter first then put the pin in).

Adjust swivels so they easily slide into the trans levers.

You are done.


Its very easy and straight forward.
 
Every OEM shifter I have had did NOT have a hole in the reverse lever. It had to be eyeballed. I have also found that my son's 18-spline likes to be adjusted one turn off the pin nuetral. It probably compensates for some worn parts in the gear box, but it just keeps on keepin' on so we won't spend any money on it.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Every OEM shifter I have had did NOT have a hole in the reverse lever. It had to be eyeballed. I have also found that my son's 18-spline likes to be adjusted one turn off the pin nuetral. It probably compensates for some worn parts in the gear box, but it just keeps on keepin' on so we won't spend any money on it.
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His shifter is a Hurst... It should have a hole to line up reverse.

Even my Inland has a slot that lines up all three.
 
I actually have 2 Hurst shifters. ONE has holes straight through all three arms one does not. The one with the 2 holes ONLY says Hurst on the shifter shaft the other is just round with a different bend.They're both definitely Hurst shifters. IF I remember my camera tomorrow I'll snap some pictures. Both are identical below the shifter shaft ,mount ,length etc etc etc

Either one will NOT work with both sets of rods I have. SO either I have the wrong shifter adapter plate or still have rods that are 1" to long.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Every OEM shifter I have had did NOT have a hole in the reverse lever. It had to be eyeballed. I have also found that my son's 18-spline likes to be adjusted one turn off the pin nuetral. It probably compensates for some worn parts in the gear box, but it just keeps on keepin' on so we won't spend any money on it.
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I have 6 Hurst Comp+, and 2 Hurst Supershifters. Some OEM, two Aftermarket replacement for Inland. ALL the Hurst Competition plus shifters are as Jim has stated. Holes to line up 1/2,3/4, and no hole in the reverse. Both Supershifter bodys have holes for all levers including reverse.
 
MACKIN said:
I actually have 2 Hurst shifters. ONE has holes straight through all three arms one does not. The one with the 2 holes ONLY says Hurst on the shifter shaft the other is just round with a different bend.They're both definitely Hurst shifters. IF I remember my camera tomorrow I'll snap some pictures. Both are identical below the shifter shaft ,mount ,length etc etc etc

Either one will NOT work with both sets of rods I have. SO either I have the wrong shifter adapter plate or still have rods that are 1" to long.
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What is a shifter adapter plate?
 
Nuetral on an 833 is 1-2, 12o'clock. 3-4 12o'clock. Reverse 10o'clock.
You were going to race with this 4-speed am I correct?
 
Outsider said:
I have 6 Hurst Comp+, and 2 Hurst Supershifters. Some OEM, two Aftermarket replacement for Inland. ALL the Hurst Competition plus shifters are as Jim has stated. Holes to line up 1/2,3/4, and no hole in the reverse. Both Supershifter bodys have holes for all levers including reverse.
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LOL My comp pluss has a hole for reverse. Im holding it in my hand now.
 
Old, and may be wrong. It seems I remember that reverse is adjusted by travel only, as it has no sychro affecting 1-4, and has a separate gate.
 
Outsider said:
What is a shifter adapter plate?
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From what I understand,

All A,b,e etc bodies use the same shifter I must assume different rods. On the 833 not only are the tailshafts mount location changed through the body series , but the plate (with the counter sunk allen head screws) that goes between the 833 transmission and the shifter are different.

So I might have A-body rods,A-Body 833 , but a B-body mounting plate referred to as 'adapter plate'.

Outsider said:
Nuetral on an 833 is 1-2, 12o'clock. 3-4 12o'clock. Reverse 10o'clock.
You were going to race with this 4-speed am I correct?
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I have the service manual and everything is in neutral I'm sure. Rods are consistently 1" approx. to long. If I switch the transmission plates around to make the rods fit,then it changes the shiffting pattern, reverse'd I believe.

So unless someone has a mount and or rod lengths for me,I'm considering calling Hurst and ordering a A-body mounting plate Or going up to New Hampshire and see a Mopar God at the Mopar grave yard ,Gary Winkel.He'll have and be able to give me exactly what I need

What I have isn't working.

I'm sure I'll row it a few times at the track. Until they kick me out! :-s
 
Which one do I need is the question?

shifter-adaptors.jpg
 
The one that I have is black ,looks thicker , and looks like the one father est to the right of your screen.
 
I have the same Hurst shiter you do. I don't know why but when I bought the car this way and have not worried to much about it. BUT when shifting into reverse I have to pull the shifter back and over not foward and over like stock. The reverse lever on the transmission is hanging downward not up like it should be. I know this is not correct but it works...all the shifts work just fine. One of these days I was going to get under the car and find out why it is like this and not the factory reverse shift pattern. You could try this with yours in order to have reverse work or leave it like that but I just thought I would mention it so you could move the car.

Here is a picture of mine... I don't know why it's like that! LOL!

Anyone got any answers for this I would really appreciate it.

DSC01664.jpg
 
Thanks for the help.

Moving the car is no rush still under Flintstone Power. You probably just have the wrong reverse rod and the past owner reversed the reverse steel plate on the transmission making it backwards. That is what I can do also with 1,2,3 and 4th shiffting pattern. Most likely reverse too.


When your under the car fixing the shifter find out where that bolt fell out. (lol)
 
MACKIN said:
When your under the car fixing the shifter find out where that bolt fell out. (lol)
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I know... I don't like that picture but it's the only one I have.

That's actually the a header flange bolt because I still had the exhaust off the car and was testing things out with the new TTI headers. Everyone at the time was talking about how the TTI headers fit so I took a picture and posted sometime last year.

I also assuming that is the wrong reverse rod. I looked however in the area where the other rods go and don't see much room for another rod to pass over the transmission bracket... maybe I'm seeing things but it sure looks like a small area.
 
Shifter mounting plate is part number: 2298. This is the mounting plate for 2 '66 shifters, One '69 aftermarket, Competition plus shifters according to the installation guide. It is also the same part number on the Hurst Indy 4-speed shifters as well. This is according to paperwork, which I saved. The actual shifter mounting bracket from my racecar is numbered: 6350 on the back. It looks top be the same piece as the 2nd one from the left in your pic. That piece has had so many shifters mounted to it is has been heli-coiled several times.
I have a new billet piece on the trans now, so it is not a Hurst piece. The Demon one is bolted in the car, so I can't give you any number there.
 
I have it together on the bench, I used a little field engineering and I think the reverse rod will work fine and clear the cross member.

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