skep419
No show, all go!
More polls 
Those with blowproof bellhousings
- Thread starter skep419
- Start date
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What exactly are you trying to find out here? Pros and cons? Racing rules?
I’ve got a QuickTime bellhousing to mount up my T56 magnum, has a block saver with bolts.
I will say that the block saver plate made dropping the oil pan with the engine in the car quite a bit harder, because there was no room to do anything other than go straight down with the pan until it was well past the bell.
I’ve got a QuickTime bellhousing to mount up my T56 magnum, has a block saver with bolts.
I will say that the block saver plate made dropping the oil pan with the engine in the car quite a bit harder, because there was no room to do anything other than go straight down with the pan until it was well past the bell.
skep419
No show, all go!
The bolts are a giant pain in the ***, I don't plan on taking it apart often but I'm always trying to make things easier whenever I can.
No plate puts your input shaft a 3/16" further in than design and also messes up your starter engagement!
b bodies are easier that a bodies , and all those bolts just make for a long job . not sure if all the fasteners are required for street uses , but if your running slicks or sticky tires , all the fasteners will keep the broken parts off your feet n legs . to walk is worth every nut n bolt .
If those bolts are too much work, use a factory bell housing or just stay with the auto all together.
I use Lakewoods and Quicktimes all the time and always use the plate. Just used one of each in the last few weeks.
Auto's can take your feet off too. Ever seen a sprag explode? I had it happen but luckily I was barely moving when it happened. It was still quite violent.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
THAT IS NOT a "block saver plate." THE PURPOSE of the plate is to CONTAIN the thing if things go N, S, E, W, stern-wards, or bow-wards.
If you ever show up to a track and it is something that requires a shield, a block plate is mandatory.
If you ever show up to a track and it is something that requires a shield, a block plate is mandatory.
Completely missed my point. But that's okay. Furthermore, the OP doesn't state intended purpose. Just "more polls". Asks the question of whether to, basically, do it the right way or half *** it. I'm well frickin aware of what a low roller failure can do. But, that comes back to not doing it the right way too.
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mopar head
Well-Known Member
May I ask what is that devise hooked to the center link, power steering? Ford?
Power steering cylinder for Non-intergraded power steering used on a lot of Fords and in this case a 67 Vette. Used with a manual box.
skep419
No show, all go!
95% street use carbed 5.9 magnum with a cam and springs. Went mid 8’s in the 1/8 with an auto. I’ve already got the block saver plate behind the flywheel and planned to use all the hardware.
I basically watched a video where a guy changed his blown clutch at the track in 45 min. Granted it was a fox body mustang, there is no way I’d have the bellhousing bolts out or the Z bar in that amount of time…….
7:15
I basically watched a video where a guy changed his blown clutch at the track in 45 min. Granted it was a fox body mustang, there is no way I’d have the bellhousing bolts out or the Z bar in that amount of time…….
7:15
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Exactly why I've been running that Lakewood since 1979. Watched my old GF's brother lose his right foot in his '66 GTO that Spring !
Back in the day my friend had a sleeper 55 Chevy with a badass 427 4-spd. He dumped the clutch hard and the pressure plate came through the floor and broke his foot pretty bad.
That is correct, I'm not sure where the term "block saver" came from. Quick Times just calls it a motor plate which is what I've called it. If anything it should be called a foot saver.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Use electric or air tools and the 8 extra nuts&bolts are not a big deal. Definitely reinforce the torque shaft pivot bracket and get a clutch fork pivot from Brewers. QT bells have several design flaws specific to them that should be corrected prior to installation.
I would also drill a hole a 6 o'clock to check clutch disc air gap.
I used to drill 3 vent holes in the block plate for ventilation but have since stopped doing that. I like the front of the bell sealed up because it keeps any oil leaks from getting to the clutch aside from a rear main issue.
I would also drill a hole a 6 o'clock to check clutch disc air gap.
I used to drill 3 vent holes in the block plate for ventilation but have since stopped doing that. I like the front of the bell sealed up because it keeps any oil leaks from getting to the clutch aside from a rear main issue.
Back in the mid to late 60's, Stock Eliminator wasn't required to have a clutch can. We were at a now defunct drag strip in East Texas and a guy pulled to the lanes on a 55 Chevy 2 door wagon to do his burn out. Just as he began to roll out of the box, the clutch assembly exploded. It decimated the floor board of the car and a piece of the flywheel bounced over and hit on of the track crew on the neck, severing his jugular vein and carotid artery. He went down and bled out so quick, no one had any time to react.
Back in the mid 70s, I was at Wilkesboro Dragway and watched a car run when his flywheel let go. At that time, the spectator seating was concrete, like big steps. It looked like fireworks went off in the car starting with a shower of sparks and then black smoke pouring out as they car drifted to a stop. It was so violent, I thought the driver must be dead. But there were two spiraling smoke trails coming from the top of the car going probably 100 yards upward. One trail went left and one went right. As we all tracked the smoke trail coming towards us, everyone scattered just before half the flywheel hit on the concrete like a sledge hammer. Luckily, no one was hit. The other half landed right by some crew member in the pits. The safety crew drug the driver out of the car and I don't remember him being injured, but he was covered in black dust.
bought a boss 302 mustang that the guy dumped the clutch on and the pressure plate let go , f....d it up . he came out unhurt . and we in a parking lot one evening a guy with a 66 gt 350 shelby was doing burnouts and yes it lose the whole flywheel pressure plate and clutch setup through the hood of that shelby with the crank hub on it . man what one f..d up car , took the back of the block and everything on the firewall with it . it flow so high up it almost left sight , but it rang hard when it hit . he was okay , just crying over his car . but he did walk away from that .
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Almost have to in order for everything to line up
lower fasteners are not bad , it's the top round that's the difficult ones . as you can , not see them their so close to the firewall . it's all hand wrenching . well unless the package come and goes out the bottom .
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I got one of theose laying around somewhere...dont they expire or they need to be certified after some years? I removed mine once I decided to restore and cruise my car instead of race.
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