Timing chain fun

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BigBlockMopar28

BigBlockMopar28

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For those that remember my timing/ no start threads, ive found the issue lol. Timing chain jumped in the w150. Never done this type of thing before but i guess there's a first for everything right? From what I know, fuel pump, crank pulley and dampener, timing cover, water pump, and alternator w/ misc brackets and such are coming off, dots on cam and crank gear need to be lined up 6 oclock cam and 12 crank. All sound right? Any special tools needed other than a torque wrench and pulley puller? And whats the deal with the oil pan part of the t-cover gasket? Does the oil pan need to come off? As far as gaskets, fuel pump, water pump, timing cover, and crank seal is all right? Any more tips for a newbie? Mostly using this to gather all gaskets/ tools and such ill need for the job and whatever knowledge you guys can teach me. 87 w150 318la, hopefully it can be changed with the block in the truck, radiator out for pulley puller clearance. Big thanks in advance
 
I did my brothers in the middle of winter outside. Was much younger then but not a bad job. I didn't take the radiator out and as I remember had plenty of room.
 
GTGrinly said:
............didn't take the radiator out and as I remember had plenty of room.
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Use cardboard to cover it for one of those "aw ****" moments.

Corrosion could be an issue with some bolts/cover that have been on forever.
 
there are several of the front cover bolts that go into coolant holes, of course i dont remember of the cuff which ones, but someone will chime in on that
make sure you put some sealant on the threads of those

i would also put on a new water pump while your at it, unless you've recently done that

are you going with a double roller this time?
 
diymirage said:
there are several of the front cover bolts that go into coolant holes, of course i dont remember of the cuff which ones, but someone will chime in on that
make sure you put some sealant on the threads of those

i would also put on a new water pump while your at it, unless you've recently done that

are you going with a double roller this time?
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Yep, that's the plan. Looking at the Comp steel geared one on Summit
 
Daves69 said:
See post 18 here ..................
1970 383 Timing Chain
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Thanks for that, good idea

So what's the deal with the bolts and pan gasket... are new bolts required or can old be used (given nothing is bad about em and thread sealer is used), and is the portion of the pan gasket under the w-pump seperate from the regular pan gasket? Picking up the felpro gasket kit for sbm, thought id need the others at some point down the line.
 
IMO, Unless any bolts are compromised (stretched, corroded, stripped, etc.) clean 'em up and reuse. Some sealer may be needed on them. SB guys should be able to direct you.
As far as pan, that's your decision once you see what you have I'd think. Just might be a good opportunity to inspect the bottom end and oil pump.
 
Daves69 said:
IMO, Unless any bolts are compromised (stretched, corroded, stripped, etc.) clean 'em up and reuse. Some sealer may be needed on them. SB guys should be able to direct you.
As far as pan, that's your decision once you see what you have I'd think. Just might be a good opportunity to inspect the bottom end and oil pump.
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That is true

In other news, went with a double roller iron chain and regular oem mech. pump
 
Whenever a chain jumps, there is always a chance that you will bend some valves.
 
And also, tdc on #1 before the balancer and all comes off, then 6 cam 12 crank? Just making sure before i jump into this lol, there's something about cyl 1 and cyl 6 i've read that i dont get
 
BigBlockMopar28 said:
And also, tdc on #1 before the balancer and all comes off, then 6 cam 12 crank? Just making sure before i jump into this lol, there's something about cyl 1 and cyl 6 i've read that i dont get
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Just line the dots up on the timing chain. Cam at 6 and crank at 12.
  • IF you get a timing chain that allows 4* advance/retard, then look carefully because the key way is marked, then the proper tooth is marked for that setting. Don't line up the mark on the key way on one of these, it has to be the tooth.
 
318willrun said:
Just line the dots up on the timing chain. Cam at 6 and crank at 12.
  • IF you get a timing chain that allows 4* advance/retard, then look carefully because the key way is marked, then the proper tooth is marked for that setting. Don't line up the mark on the key way on one of these, it has to be the tooth.
[/QUO So just to clarify, it doesnt matter if im on tdc or not until i put the dist in time after the new chain is in, as long as the gears are lined up
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If the gears are lined up, then your valve timing is correct. the distributor is ignition timing. Two separate timings, but work in harmony. You can line up TDC after the chain is on, or before. Doesn't matter. If you are on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke, your rotor will either face #1 spark plug wire, or 180 degree from it.
 
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