Timing chain misalignment

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robertob

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Anyone had trouble with JP/Rollmaster timing sets with cam to crank alignment? I've seen a few threads on it over at .org, but with no conclusion. With everything bolted up, the timing chain pulls the cam about .100 (haven't measured yet) out of the block.

Trying to decide what to do - space out the cam sprocket or pay to have the crank sprocket machined down.
 
throw that thing in the garbage and get a new timing set. why would you even consider modifying a timing set in the first place. that is flirting with disaster.
 
That's unfortunately the way of life with a slant six anything... There are no other readily available double roller timing sets. So we work with what we can get.

I already had to have my machinist hone the bore out to get it less tight on the crank.
 
robertob said:
Anyone had trouble with JP/Rollmaster timing sets with cam to crank alignment? I've seen a few threads on it over at .org, but with no conclusion. With everything bolted up, the timing chain pulls the cam about .100 (haven't measured yet) out of the block.

Trying to decide what to do - space out the cam sprocket or pay to have the crank sprocket machined down.
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thats odd... i didn't have any such issues with mine. you install the crank sprocket on backwards? is the back of the sprockets flush with the crank/block.

if your dead set on getting a different set get a rollermaster.

younggun2.0 said:
throw that thing in the garbage and get a new timing set. why would you even consider modifying a timing set in the first place. that is flirting with disaster.
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JP sets are IMO the nicest timing sets you can buy for a slant. and do you have any experience with a slant JP set?? and there is nothing wrong with having the sprockets slightly machined, not that .100 is slight lol
 
Rollmaster and JP are the same. JP bought Rollmaster out some time ago. Have you looked at the Comp set? It's very beefy. Not a double roller, but it's badass.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Rollmaster and JP are the same. JP bought Rollmaster out some time ago. Have you looked at the Comp set? It's very beefy. Not a double roller, but it's badass.
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Really! i didn't know roller got bought out...

and your talkin about CCA-3205? double link with no adjustment... only reason to upgrade is for the roller and adjustable, the double is overkill. ive never gotten more than 6K miles out of a new stock set...
 
805moparkid said:
thats odd... i didn't have any such issues with mine. you install the crank sprocket on backwards? is the back of the sprockets flush with the crank/block.

if your dead set on getting a different set get a rollermaster.



JP sets are IMO the nicest timing sets you can buy for a slant. and do you have any experience with a slant JP set?? and there is nothing wrong with having the sprockets slightly machined, not that .100 is slight lol
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no i have never tore into a /6. but i would be very very hesitant to machine a timing set. they should bolt right up straight outta the box. is there another problem that is preventing it from lining up?
 
younggun2.0 said:
no i have never tore into a /6. but i would be very very hesitant to machine a timing set. they should bolt right up straight outta the box. is there another problem that is preventing it from lining up?
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i havn't run into it before but my guess is something in the machining process changed and was bumped out of spec...
 
Yes, the 3205 is the one. All you have to do is drill ONE HOLE in the cam gear and you can use the advance bushings for the big block.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes, the 3205 is the one. All you have to do is drill ONE HOLE in the cam gear and you can use the advance bushings for the big block.
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ive had bad luck with the link stuff on longevity... though im sure a .010 hole in the oil galley plug would help...
 
They lasted like a **** from the factory.
 
This is a Rollmaster set. I bought, and paid for, a JP set but was sent Rollmaster. Doesn't matter since they are basically the same.

The gear is not backwards - the timing marks are on the front where they should be. It's something to do with the machining of the two gears. I will have my machinist take some off the back of the crank gear, and will likely have to use shim spacers between the nose of the cam and the cam gear.

And I too prefer double-roller for longevity, and the multiple keyways is a much cleaner way to vary timing than the hole and offset bushing.
 
Wait. You say the CAM gear sticks OUT, right? I know what the problem is. They sent you a set for a big block.
 
robertob said:
That's unfortunately the way of life with a slant six anything... There are no other readily available double roller timing sets. So we work with what we can get.

I already had to have my machinist hone the bore out to get it less tight on the crank.
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I bought a double roller set for my ex's slant six from NAPA, but had to order each gear and chain seperately...
 
krazykuda said:
I bought a double roller set for my ex's slant six from NAPA, but had to order each gear and chain seperately...
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You can still do that from Cloyes parts:

c168 (chain)
s338 (cam gear)
s339 (crank gear)

But they are cast, and have only one timing keyway/mark. The JP stuff is billet and adjustable.
 
robertob said:
Really, is that the only difference? I thought the cam gear had a different attaching method for the BB??
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when you run a BB gear drive you have to shim the cam gear out X amount (dont remember how much). BB came in single bolt and aftermarkets rollers and some solids come in three bolt.
 
robertob said:
Really, is that the only difference? I thought the cam gear had a different attaching method for the BB??
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If JP/Rollmaster makes a one bolt gear for a big block, I bet that's what you have.
 
Actual misalignment worked out to around .060. I swapped in another crank to bring it down to .045 and having the machinist take that much off the back of the crank gear.

Likely if I never measured it I would never have noticed. Another guy on .org confirmed with JP the sets are not machined wrong, it's just an issue with the tolerances.
 
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