Timing Chain Tensioner

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Braeden Clark

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So in my magnum 360 rebuild I have of course installed a new timing chain. Well, the chain still feels like it had too much slop to me. I don't like how much it has. I've seen tensioners that fit my engine. Good idea or bad idea? Any negative affects. I am using a mild comp cam with hughes springs. Not sure if that makes any difference. Thoughts?
 
I used the mopar part from a v6 magnum. Perfect fit. I can see no down side. In my 408 stroked 360.
 
Mopar Tim said:
I used the mopar part from a v6 magnum. Perfect fit. I can see no down side. In my 408 stroked 360.
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I've seen where people say it adds too much drag to the motor. Not sure if that's true or BS. I feel a little more drag is better then a sloppy chain. Not sure though. Thoughts?
 
I have used them on quite a few builds, no problems. steadies the timing.
 
I’d say about 50~60% of people here use them. I do and the 10 or so close car friends I run with all have them in their motors. I have not seen any drag with the use, but I have seen better timing control and valve train control.
 
I put one on my double roller. It really didn't need it.
 
There was a big discussion on this subject a week or so ago. There was lots of good info in the posts. Do a quick search!
 
Treblig said:
There was a big discussion on this subject a week or so ago. There was lots of good info in the posts. Do a quick search!
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Seems like once a month there is one about timing chains and tensioners.

I like run the Pro Gear chains from Hughes and the $80 summit chains gear sets…
 
Braeden Clark said:
I've seen where people say it adds too much drag to the motor. Not sure if that's true or BS. I feel a little more drag is better then a sloppy chain. Not sure though. Thoughts?
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Ill call a big BS on that. They just don't like it. Some like em, some don't on the basis that the nylon erodes where the double roller link ends ride. that nylon 'gets into motor'....past the oil filter? Ill call BS on that too. Its purpose is to steady the timing, it doesnt prevent the stretch. I think its a great addition to a build and has been used on millions of cars successfully. Its like politics here. very hard to swing someone off their beliefs on it.
 
If I remember correctly the last thread on this subject basically said that it depends on what kind of chain you have/buy?? The type of chain has some determination on whether you need (or can use) a tensioner.
 
Anti-chain tensioner crusader post coming in
5-4-3........
 
Do a search, it's all personal preference. I've READ that there is wearable s**t on the tensioner and have seen pics where they get grooves worn in them. Do some research and make up your own mind. With the shitty mfg that goes on nowadays I WILL NOT be putting one on.
If your set is "sloppy" it's either worn out or garbage quality.
My .02
 
Whats so bad about the (smooth back) silent type link chain? It actually looks stronger with 5-6 links per pin. I know they ran them on crap nylon gears but you can get steel gears too. If its about reduced friction....C'mon; Many of us are running battleship springs that would nullify that friction tax. I remember an old Hamburger ad for a HD silent type chain. That type of chain is less likely to gouge the nylon of the tensioner if that is a concern.
 
pishta said:
Whats so bad about the (smooth back) silent type link chain? It actually looks stronger with 5-6 links per pin. I know they ran them on crap nylon gears but you can get steel gears too. If its about reduced friction....C'mon; Many of us are running battleship springs that would nullify that friction tax. I remember an old Hamburger ad for a HD silent type chain. That type of chain is less likely to gouge the nylon of the tensioner if that is a concern.
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But it also depends on the tensioner (sacrificial) material and the chain design???
 
pishta said:
(smooth back) silent type link chain
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It is said that with a tensioner that is the chain to use.Now I know both types have been used.This is what I have read many times. I did use a tensioner and silent chain in my last 318 build.I too figured that Ma Mopar put them in for a reason. The debate will continue. Like what is best ? Holley or Carter ? As said above,personal preference.
 
toolmanmike said:
I put one on my double roller. It really didn't need it.
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@toolmanmike scribe a line where the chain is running on the slack side, then you can see where it ends up after the next teardown. We all know chains stretch, cogs wear, etc. Even the best chains will relax a bit. My mazda runs a 3 foot timing chain over 3 of these slippers and its a roller style. Had 160,000 miles on it when I changed the chain and the slippers were still in good shape, sure they had ruts in them but the pump had no wear in it, no embedded nylon (too soft). The primary tensioner slipper had factory ruts but the guide slippers on the other side were still smooth with just a hint of where the links ran across them. If your taking chunks out of the LA tensioner, you got sharp chain endlinks or oil issues. Both can be addressed. Just inspect your chain and look for anything sharp on the thrust side of the chain and dress it down. Its really a choice you can make, no ones forcing the issue but I personally think the benefit outweigh the perceived faults.
 
I ran one, the guide broke in the middle, it was NOT worn through! and the flat spring started to eat its way out through the cover. I won’t use one again, but there are smart experienced people on both sides. You just have to roll the dice. Everyone agrees to get the BEST timing set you can. I run rollmaster billet sprockets and IWIS chain. Your chain may be a standard length and the block could have been line bored a couple of times? They make slightly shorter chains.
 
pishta said:
@toolmanmike scribe a line where the chain is running on the slack side, then you can see where it ends up after the next teardown. We all know chains stretch, cogs wear, etc. Even the best chains will relax a bit. My mazda runs a 3 foot timing chain over 3 of these slippers and its a roller style. Had 160,000 miles on it when I changed the chain and the slippers were still in good shape, sure they had ruts in them but the pump had no wear in it, no embedded nylon (too soft). The primary tensioner slipper had factory ruts but the guide slippers on the other side were still smooth with just a hint of where the links ran across them. If your taking chunks out of the LA tensioner, you got sharp chain endlinks or oil issues. Both can be addressed. Just inspect your chain and look for anything sharp on the thrust side of the chain and dress it down. Its really a choice you can make, no ones forcing the issue but I personally think the benefit outweigh the perceived faults.
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I haven't noticed anything in the oil from the tensioner but I really haven't looked. From what I have read, the tensioners were designed for the 3.9l Magnum. Here's my 96 Dakota 3.9. It was so loose it was chattering on the cover. Pretty noisy but the engine did have 150,000 on it. The factory set up was metal gears.
 
Don't use the bandaid tensioner . Get a true roller chain not a roller.. There is a big difference. The tensioner should only be used with a link chain and gears . not a roller and sprockets. long Lifter and cam life is at danger . the tensioner causes a harmonic that interferes with lifter rotation with sprockets when using heavier valve springs. There is a article on this.. I believe Mancini racing

All double rollers are not created equal
 
toolmanmike said:
I put one on my double roller. It really didn't need it.
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Ok so I've made up my mind. I've ordered a double roller timing set by Cloyes for my engine. If that also ends up being too loose, I will add a tensioner. I prefer to not need a tensioner, but if the cloyes set is loose I will add one. Can you add a tensioner to a double roller style chain?
 
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