To sleeve or start over?

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Well, there is one factor we don't know.

What is your budget and goals for this? Expectation?
 
Sleeve pics with no decking afterward-real time. J.Rob
 

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Trevor, have you disassembled the short block to see what you have and it's condition beyond the water leak?
 
First of all, huge thank you to Luke (iw378 ), who hooked me up with an '83 block and shared much knowledge and some good tips. This one has no unexpected holes!

Dano - no, the old block is still in the car. Gotta pull it when the weather clears up. My goals are to get this car running and be able to drive it around but also take it to the track once in a while.

I've got the "new" block torn down and am doing some cleaning. It's going to the machinist some time this week for magnaflux/boring and honing as necessary. There is very little in the way of a ridge at the top of the cylinders and the pistons came out fairly easily. So hopefully I can just use slightly larger rings and not have to worry about new pistons.

Lots of orange powder in the water jacket.
 

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Glad you found one......and made a new friend hopefully. Keep in mind, there's not a darn thing wrong with a sleeve. Wouldn't hurt a thing in the world to still sleeve the hurt block. Then it will be a good spare, instead of a large paper weight.
 
Also - I have read many threads about whether to use sealant or anti-seize on head bolts. Don't know if this information is useful to anyone but on this 1983 block, 15/20 of the head bolts go into the water jacket. As I am now extremely sensitive to all water jacket-related issues, this is going in my notebook.

Attached are two pictures with the only blind holes marked (with small white dots).
First picture = right side: bottom hole at front of cylinder 2 and upper hole between 6 and 8
Second picture = left side: both holes on front of cylinder 1 and upper hole between 1 and 3
 

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I put high temp RTV on head bolts. Blind or open. Been doin it a long time.
 
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