Toe-In/Toe-Out Issues

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racerdude5

racerdude5

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I set my car to a 1/16" toe-in and drove it, came back and measure it again and it was at 2" toe-out. What's going on? Also, when it was toe out the tops of the tires leaned inwards, when it was toe-in the tops of the tires leaned outwards.
 
My first guess is that the tube in the K- member that the strut rod goes thru broke free and is allowing the lower control arm to swivel around somewhat. Of course I am assuming that your bushings are all of in good shape. Check the K-member by loosening the strut nut and seeing what kind of movement you can get from it. Ensure you re-torque it before driving.

Also, you may need the offset bushings in the upper control arms to get the correct alignment.
 
Sounds like you had the suspension unloaded during checking. The car must be setting with the tires on the ground full weight of the body.Also roll the car back and forth a few feet(8 or 10) to equalize the suspension.Doing it on the ground is a pain but unless you have a ramp type lift you gotta make due.Also take your readings from the center of the tire tread. If you need more info I can go into more detail.
 
As above. You cannot measure from some point on the tread. You need to establish the rotational centerline of the tire. You need to jimmy up a scribe that you can hold steady. Sharp nail, chalk, any way to make a fine line. With one tire jacked up at a time barely off the floor, jacked up under the lower arm, rotate the tire while holding your scribe steady, and make a mark on opposite sides of the tire. Let the tire down with the marks ahead and back. Do other tire, measure off those marks.
 
Control arm bushings or the pivot pin the lower arm runs on. (or both)
My car used to do that exactly until I replaced the bushings.
The toe was different every time I checked it. (sometimes up to an inch or more off)
Replaced the bushings, aligned it and have not had any issues with it since.

I could hit a small bump or reflector in the road and the car would change direction.
Also going over a crack in the asphalt the car would feel like it shifted sideway suddenly for a second.
 
all bushings are new except for upper control arm bushings, same with tie rod ends, etc. Strut rods are adjustable with heims, no bushings. I checked toe with toe plates.
 
racerdude5 said:
all bushings are new except for upper control arm bushings, same with tie rod ends, etc. Strut rods are adjustable with heims, no bushings. I checked toe with toe plates.
Click to expand...

You mean like longacre toe plates?

If it changed 2 inches, you measured it wrong or something is broken.

longacre1.jpg


My guess is you didn't settle the suspension (grease plates) between measurements or you didn't center the steering box to the same place when making each measurement.

Just a guess from the limited amount of info and pictures given.
 
I had this very same problem.

It would be a good idea to remove your lower control arms(LCA's), and check out the hole in you K member for the LCA pin. One of the welded in bushings of the K member of my 73 Dart Sport had broken loose from the K member and was wobbling around allowing the LCA to move all about even after I had replaced the LCA bushings. The other side was showing cracking as well. I welded them in solid and ground my welds flush, no problems since.

Check my "LCA's worn out?" thread I posted some time back. Along with the K member repair, I took out the slop in the control arms using a method another member informed me of with a handy video.

Good Luck!
 
racerdude5 said:
I set my car to a 1/16" toe-in and drove it, came back and measure it again and it was at 2" toe-out. What's going on? Also, when it was toe out the tops of the tires leaned inwards, when it was toe-in the tops of the tires leaned outwards.
Click to expand...

I agree with checking the lower control arm pin where it's located in the crossmember. If the welds are broken at the sleeve, all hell will be wrong with the alignment. It's very difficult to see....
 

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On the k-member on the passenger side of the car, the little bevel on the side opposite shown above just came off. As if it was a washer. Just the bevel came off, on the side of the LCA pivot nearest to the front of the car.
 
racerdude5 said:
On the k-member on the passenger side of the car, the little bevel on the side opposite shown above just came off. As if it was a washer. Just the bevel came off, on the side of the LCA pivot nearest to the front of the car.
Click to expand...

The front of the crossmember should be smooth (no bevel). There should be a thick metal washer & a nut to hold the pin in....

How does the driver side look?

If you could post a picture, that might help too.
 
Actually now that you say that, it must have been on the backside of the crossmember. Yeah, the bevel came off. There's a but and thick washer on the threaded portion of the shaft, that part is correct.
 
If you've been driving around with the torsion bar adjuster finger slamming the frame to do the damage you mentioned in that other thread, that will break that weld around the hole on the K-member pictures in no time.
 
The bevel is broke on the passenger side, the click from the torsion bar finger is on the drivers side.
 
racerdude5 said:
The bevel is broke on the passenger side, the click from the torsion bar finger is on the drivers side.
Click to expand...

One side is broke or broke all the way different the that other side. When broke, the LCA will move all over the place. That's why your camber and toe is changing all over the place. One side might be moved away from the frame and the other side not.

I broke a K-member LCA hole by overloading my Barracuda to 5600 lbs while moving and bottoming out the front K-member. LCA bumpstop hit the frame.

Don't know what caused this first. If you had some pictures of both sides people here could help more and keep this from happening all over again.

The adjuster hitting the frame will cause the K-member to break. But don't know if it's hitting now because it's broken or it hit first and caused it to break. Again pictures.
 
Well I'll get up some pictures as soon as I get a chance. Thanks for all the help
 
so I guess we could say, The suspension components should not show signs of being broken, to function correctly .:wack:MT
 
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