Torque Boxes?

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Done Swimmin

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Hi
I was reading a post about a dart build-up and the authour mentioned he welded in torque boxes like the ones used in the 27 body, (convertible) for extra strength. Anyone have a picture or description of what he was referrring to?:read2:
I am guessing that it is a subframe to floor extension that is perpendicular to the existing frame rails? Would heve been able to remove them from a wreck or did he fab them?
Anyone?

pete
 
I think cause there is only one person making them so he can pretty much charge what he wants.
 
NUMB3RS. Quantities of anything produced reflects in the pricing.
You could set up and produce 10 or 10,000 sets if torque boxes and see a huge difference in the per unit production costs. The issue is how many sales and how long it takes to recover that initial cost.
There is some info on the web about making torque boxes if you wish to make a set .
I dont have the link handy but I've seen it before. Good luck
 
I believe Auto Rust Technicians in R.I.,make their own..question is do you really need them??remember cars DID'NT come from the factory with frame connectors,so those boxes were probably needed..those boxes are a little expensive,i would and did put in frame connectors instead,for half the price...
 
RestoRicks are pretty correct in looks/design. That's why they are expensive. Like anything restoration oriented.

The auto rust technicians are workable, but, not correct looking.

I agree with stroked on this point, if you are going to upgrade the chassis, go frame connectors first. Better bang for the buck.

You could make a set of rear torque boxes for under $20 if you have even basic metal working skills. All the basically do is triangulate, boxe the forward edge of the rear spring perch mount. If you don't want pretty, they are simple to make.
 
11 Gauge Metal Same As Frame Works Good, Was What I Used For Making My Own Sub-frame Connectors, Make Sure It Good Old American Steel [11 Gauge Mild Steel ]
 
here are pics of the front and rear boxes in a convertible (dart - 69). The ones with the holes at the center are the rears and the more solid looking ones are the front. They connect the rocker panel, and the (somewhat) crossmember of the car. The reproductions ones are very nice and original looking. If your looking for strength, go with sub-frame connectors first, then torque boxes (per the Mopar Chassis manual)

tb.JPG


tb2.JPG
 
I got mine from ART - here they are installed on the 74 Duster:

P3260006.JPG
 
Super70bird your 74 duster looks a lot like my 69 Dart...
boxes are originals cut from a convert, and subframe connectors are US cartool, nice quality, heavy gauge, good fit.

P7130017.jpg
 
Burntorange70 said:
That looks very nice!


What gauge were the boxes? What did you use for the conecttors? 2X2 or 2X3? And what gauge tube were they?


Thank you for any info you can give.

Russell.
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Not sure what gauge they are. Had to rework (ie, HAMMER TIME) them a bit for fitting. They are $250 for all 4 from autorust.com.

The connectors are 2x3, I pretty much followed the Big Block Dart tech page for making them - http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml
 
71autoxr said:
Super70bird your 74 duster looks a lot like my 69 Dart...
boxes are originals cut from a convert, and subframe connectors are US cartool, nice quality, heavy gauge, good fit.
Click to expand...


This is the way I will go! Connectors and tq boxes make for a real stiff car.

Does it affect ride quality?
 
I know everybody uses rotisseries but isn't there a chance that everything flexes when it hung sideways? How do you know everything is in place before you weld? Mike
 
toolmanmike said:
I know everybody uses rotisseries but isn't there a chance that everything flexes when it hung sideways? How do you know everything is in place before you weld? Mike
Click to expand...
well there isn;t much place for everything to go. These cars were never perfect from the factory, so there is also the theory that "messing them up" is actually getting them closer to what the manufacturer intended. My uneducated thought is that there is probably no more stress placed on the car during this process than over the past 40 years of rail road tracks, jack rabbit starts, bumper jacks, two wheel lifts, etc. Installing the sub frame connectors and/or torque boxes removes some of the doubt that much more movement will occur. I would think that on a car thats mostly seeing street use it's ok. If your building a car for serious track time (straight or curved) start with the car on a frame alignment rack.
Needsaresto - I have subframe connectors in my challenger (not welded to the floor) it merely reduces the inherent flex in the body and does not negatively or positively affect the quality of the ride - that is more so attributed to springs, torsion bars, shocks, tire sidewall height etc... Think of subframe and torque boxes like the top and bottom flap of a cardboard box. Without the top and bottom flaps folded - pretty flimsy. Fold the top and bottom and tape it, voila strong box.
 
Check out Uscartool.com we make torque boxes for A, B, And E bodies, thanks again for all the support
 
A frame alignment rack makes no sense unless all equipment is on board,IE;Drivetrain,interior exterior panels etc. Thats how it's done when repairing a frame that has been damaged. Generally speaking,most frame shops dont pull stuff out of the car unless needed.

Thus I think that if you had a car you were already driving and wanted more st iffness,simply weld the torque boxes and or subframe connectors in with the weight of the car on the suspension. This would make for the least amount of panel alignment/adjustment issues and will likely not affect front end wheel alignment either.
 
Just wondering: Has anyone ever taken the time to measure uo an "A" body for frame extensions? If figured out the tubing size and some dimensions for a template, all you would need to do is lay it out and "persuade" it a little. Imagine the combined money saved. If some one can help with numbers I can draw up the plans.
 
Romeo said:
Just wondering: Has anyone ever taken the time to measure uo an "A" body for frame extensions? If figured out the tubing size and some dimensions for a template, all you would need to do is lay it out and "persuade" it a little. Imagine the combined money saved. If some one can help with numbers I can draw up the plans.
Click to expand...

PM sent:icon_smi:
 
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