torsion bar boots

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I assume you are talking about over the hex on the torsion bar......lube em up.

messy, but effective
 
Silicone O-ring lube. Slide 'em onto the the spout of a funnel that just fits over the hex.Lots of lube. Then fit the spout over the hex, and shazzam,slide em on NOT backwards.
 
Getting them hot in boiling water helps a lot, as well as what AJ said.
Those long plastic trans fluid type funnels work great, and are cheap enough to cut up.
 
We used lots of lube and a socket slightly bigger than the hex head. We were using poly boots and they were a real PITA. It worked, but it took one person holding the rod straight up on the floor while the other pushed down from the socket to the rod, and we had to be FAST.
 
I assume the OP speaks of the Energy Suspension polyurethane boots. Don't heat in the microwave. I tried that for a "safe" 15 sec and the thinner part started to bubble. Soak the fat end in boiling water helps. I use a socket to get it started, one from my 3/4" drive Harbor Freight kit. Isn't easy, but you can do it.
 
armyofchuckness said:
We used lots of lube and a socket slightly bigger than the hex head. We were using poly boots and they were a real PITA. It worked, but it took one person holding the rod straight up on the floor while the other pushed down from the socket to the rod, and we had to be FAST.
Click to expand...

That is what I did. I used 2 or three sockets "stepping up" with an extension handle. I don't remember. I think I got a boot onto one socket, then took the next "step up" and clamped the two sockets in the vise, then worked the boot onto the next larger.

I'm not sure the darn things are even necessary the way most of these girls are driven. The rear is open, and so is the rear of the front socket. They are not exactly "sealed."
 
67Dart273 said:
... I'm not sure the darn things are even necessary the way most of these girls are driven. The rear is open, and so is the rear of the front socket. They are not exactly "sealed."
Click to expand...
Some people probably assume the grease is for lubrication, like a ball joint (I know 67Dart273 doesn't). I read (Allpar site?) that the earliest Mopars w/ torsion bars had no front boot or grease. In the rusty North, road salt packed into the anchor and quickly corroded. Must have been only a few years before cars started dropping down while driving when the anchor released, because they soon changed the design to filling the cavities w/ grease and booting the front. If you backup thru salty snow piles, you could corrode the rear side, though there is a little plastic disk there as a hopeful seal. Whenever I return from a Lake Tahoe drive, first thing I do is hose off the underside, and I don't think they even use salt on those roads (to protect the trout). We usually have to chain up anyway to cross the pass when snowing. Some A's, particularly later 70's ones, were stingy on welding the rear anchors. Some here who saw just a few weld spots, added a weld all around the circle. I recall a few of the skimpy factory welds broke free.
 
I heat them up in my toaster oven to 150° F to get them soft and pliable before installing them.

Most rubber can withstand up to 240° F...
 
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