Hello wanting to lower my front end about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Was told you can turn the torsion bar bolt counter clockwise to lower the car. About how many turns and is counter clockwise sound correct to lower? Also does the car need to be jacked up to do this and can I put it on jack stands and do both sides at the same time? Any info would be great. Thanks Jason
Torsion Bar lowering question 67 Cuda for newbie
- Thread starter Badfish1
- Start date
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momoparman
MOISMYHOME
If your lowering it make sure you do it slowly by adjusting the bolts ccw as stated. Make sure the car is sitting on a level floor before you start. Bounce the car up and down after you make each adjustment so the car settles properly or even take it out for a quick drive. You shouldn't have to turn much to get the 1/2 to 3/4" adjustment you want....probably no more than a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Make sure you do each side equally. You can measure from several areas like the lips on the front fenders or the bumper, brackets, k frame etc...to get the car level. Since your lowering it you don't have to jack the car up but some will say to do so. I prefer to have the car loaded when I make lowering adjustments but that's just me.
I'm sure you will probably get more input so stand by.
Good luck
Make sure you do each side equally. You can measure from several areas like the lips on the front fenders or the bumper, brackets, k frame etc...to get the car level. Since your lowering it you don't have to jack the car up but some will say to do so. I prefer to have the car loaded when I make lowering adjustments but that's just me.
I'm sure you will probably get more input so stand by.
Good luck
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Counter clockwise (unscrew) is correct.
Off the ground is easiest on your parts.
I would start with the approximate same amount of turns on each side and go from there.
For 1/2 to 3/4 I would try 1 full turn at a time on each side.
Keep in mind that you have to roll the car a little when you let it down to check it so it can settle to where it will normally be.
If you just let it back down on the ground without rolling it back and forth a little it will stay high until the first time it rolls and then drop.
Just saw the above post.
1/4 turn isn't going to be nearly enough, but it won't hurt anything (just might have to jack it up more times.)
If you just bounce the front end instead of rolling it back and forth 4-5 feet the sidewalls of the tires will give a little, but it will still settle more when rolled.
Off the ground is easiest on your parts.
I would start with the approximate same amount of turns on each side and go from there.
For 1/2 to 3/4 I would try 1 full turn at a time on each side.
Keep in mind that you have to roll the car a little when you let it down to check it so it can settle to where it will normally be.
If you just let it back down on the ground without rolling it back and forth a little it will stay high until the first time it rolls and then drop.
Just saw the above post.
1/4 turn isn't going to be nearly enough, but it won't hurt anything (just might have to jack it up more times.)
If you just bounce the front end instead of rolling it back and forth 4-5 feet the sidewalls of the tires will give a little, but it will still settle more when rolled.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
It's almost mandatory to drive the car around the block after making adjustments. At a minimum drive in and out of the driveway to give the suspension a jounce before measuring. Try a turn or two, and then adjust after adjusting. I use a tape measure on a level surface and the center of the front wheel opening.
You will have to have the front end realigned after you get the front where you want it. Drop spindles are the correct way to lower the front end.
You will have to have the front end realigned after you get the front where you want it. Drop spindles are the correct way to lower the front end.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Let's see, adjust a half inch or so vs drop spindles and everything involved in that.(no thanks)
You are correct though, obviously.
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
What ever you do please put a jack or stand under the car while you adjust them. I had a car crush me while doing this when the threads stripped. Trust me you don't want this to happen.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Jack it up so all the weight is off the tires. You'll need a few full turns on each one to lower it 1/2" to 3/4". Take it out, drive it, then measure your height and re-adjust to get it level and where you want it.
This is completely incorrect.
In fact, lowering the car a 1/2" with 2" drop spindles (the only ones currently available) will adversely effect your suspension geometry. You will both raise your roll center and increase your bump steer. I've used drop spindles, and I've had the geometry run through a suspension program. The geometry that results from lowering your suspension with the torsion bar adjusters is superior to lowering the same amount with drop spindles. You get a better roll center, better camber curve, and less bump steer with the stock spindles.
There are a great many threads on the effects of drop spindles. Here's one...
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=291843&highlight=drop+spindles
To lower the car a 1/2", do as has already been posted here. Jack the car up (safely, with jackstands and wheel chocks), turn the torsion bar adjusters about 1 turn CCW. Put the car back on the ground, drive it around the block to settle the suspension and check to see if you're where you want to be. Repeat if necessary. When you're done, get an alignment. Your alignment numbers have changed with lowering the car and you need to get an alignment.
Also keep in mind that the stock torsion bars were designed to allow the amount of travel that these cars have at the stock ride height. Lowering the ride height from stock results in a loss of suspension travel. Usually that means replacing the stock torsion bars with larger diameter (stiffer) torsion bars to reduce the amount of suspension travel needed to match the amount of suspension travel left after lowering. The lower you go, the stiffer the torsion bars need to be in order to keep the suspension from constantly hitting the bumpstops.
These cars were undersprung from the factory, so you will probably find even lowering the car a 1/2" will result in the suspension bottoming out somewhat frequently, although that will depend on how your car is currently set up- which torsion bars you have, what engine/transmission you have and how many aftermarket aluminum parts are on it, what shocks you have, and how you drive. But the stock torsion bars were barely stiff enough for the stock ride height, so lowering the car will only increase the amount of time you spend on the bumpstops unless you also increase the diameter of the torsion bars.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Lol, this is absolutely correct. :blob: Only use 2 inch lowering blocks if you want to lower the car 2 inches.
Even using 2" drop spindles to lower the car 2" results in worse suspension geometry than lowering the car 2" with the torsion bar adjusters. The best suspension geometry on these cars occurs when the UCA's and LCA's are roughly parallel with the ground. Which is pretty darn low.
2" drop spindles cost $500 to $600, buying a set of 1.03" torsion bars costs a bit over $200. Lowering the car 2" with the torsion bar adjusters and using 1.03" torsion bars will result in a car that handles MUCH better than one that has 2" drop spindles and stock bars. Or even 2" drop spindles and 1.03" bars, although that will be a less noticeable difference.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Well there we have it. Good to know, and another reason I won't lower my cars. Nothing wrong with adjusting the ride height to balance the car, but I hate to see any Mopar down in the weeds, track cars and autocrossers excepted.
champyfz450
Well-Known Member
Where would you recommend buying the torsion bars from? With the Canadian-US dollar difference it would be nice to find a set for around $200.
PST sells 1.03" bars for $219, and you can get a FABO discount with them. But I have no idea how/if that would work out with shipping to Canada.
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