Torsion bar Removal Technique

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harvenator

harvenator

A fish called Wanda
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I decided to finally swap out my /6 Torsion bars for a set of 890's I picked up last year. I made my own removal tool from some angle iron and after doing all the normal preparation it worked fine for the passenger's side but when I tried it on the driver's side the bar wouldn't budge no matter how hard I pounded.

Finally I got the bright idea of wrapping one of my motorcycle tie downs around the bar in front of my little tool and hooking a comealong to the tie down and and another tie down I put over the rear and in line with the torsion bar.

All it took were a few clicks and the bar popped right out. Think I'll do that right at the beginning next time -- it was almost too easy.
 
are you saving the old bars to either re-sell or keep around? Mine were REALLY nicked up so I just cut them in half with a cutoff wheel and they dropped right out. But the tie down and come along idea was good thinking!
 
you know what works real good as a removal tool. A bicycle handlebar goose neck. the square style with the four screws. Used on mine when I removed em. worked great.
 
Nice solution to a PITA problem.
I bought the removal tool for $35.00 and it worked like a charm; your solution was less expensive and involved less pounding with a hammer than mine did, well done.
 
I just welded up some angle iron to a pair of vise grips yesterday with the intention of removing some torsion bars soon.Sounds very similar to what you did. I have tons of tie downs but I threw my come-along out years back due to badly frayed cable and a bent frame,lol! Thats o.k thier cheap new.
 
Some pretty ingenious ideas in this thread.

I machined a V, down the middle, the length of two 4x6x1 1/4" blocks of aluminum, then drilled and tapped for four 3/8 bolts, one on each corner. It works well, but was a lot more trouble than some of these ideas.
 
HemiEd said:
Some pretty ingenious ideas in this thread.

I machined a V, down the middle, the length of two 4x6x1 1/4" blocks of aluminum, then drilled and tapped for four 3/8 bolts, one on each corner. It works well, but was a lot more trouble than some of these ideas.
Click to expand...

That sounds like an exact match for the tool I bought, except for the material used.
 
Rich Ehrinburg came up with the trick of disconnecting the support strut and using the lower control arm to move the torsion bar back. I tried it and it worked fine. You don't even nick the bar this way.
 
That's the way I do it. Unbolt the strut rod and unbolt the lower control arm from the k-member and just pry the lca back. Don't several times this way with no muss or fuss.
 
340_dart_power said:
That sounds like an exact match for the tool I bought, except for the material used.
Click to expand...

I copied the idea out of my 68 Plymouth service manual, pretty simple just takes a while to make. I had the aluminum in stock, so it was an easy choice.
 
Here's another way... just flip her over, hook up a tow strap to the torsion bar, hook it to the hitch on your Dodge Dingo and drive away!

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To remove the torsion bars, I use an 18" pipe wrench and I have my car on a frame lift. You'need some height to work the 18" wrench and the tires off the ground. I don't know the correct nomenclature, but here goes.

First take out the wire clip in the end of the T bar. Then move up front and, remove the height adjusting screw by turning it counter clock-wise until it comes out. But first, ( You will want to measure, and write down, how much of the hex head end of the screw is exposed and paint a corner of the hex. ) So you can put it back together exactly how you found it.

If you're doing the drivers side and you are facing forward, place the open jaws of the wrench on the socket- unit that holds the front of the bar. The jaws should be open to the right. Spray the T bar end with penetrating oil.

Close the jaws down and push or pull the bottom of the handle to the right ( counter clock-wise ) about an inch, it will stop, hold it there.
Pull the torsion bar straight back with your hands, it should easily come right out.

If you're doing the passenger side, the wrench goes on the opposite way, with the open jaws facing to the left. turning clock-wise.

You may want to use a rag or a sand paper under the jaw teeth to prevent teeth marks on the socket.

Do not use a pipe wrench on the torsion bar, it's unnecessary and you will ruin it.
Do not scratch or nick the bar.
 
When you say pipe wrench..are you referring to a stillson wrench ?

Anyone with pictures ?

Grassy
 
Yup..a stillson . Haven't used one for over 20 years..I will now have to tell my wife that there is a reason I hold on to the 'occasionally' used tools and am really not a hoarder. :)

Grassy
 
This is a 2010 thread, but disconnect the shock and push down the lca; no need for the wrench.
 
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