Torsion bar removal

-
7

70dart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
1,714
Reaction score
4
Location
Fredericton,New Brunswick
I have removed my rusted front clip and have the torsion bar nuts removed along with the c clips and have removed the tension adjusting bolts but the bars don't want to seem to move any suggestions on the removal. Also does anybody make the socket that the bars fit into. I am referring to the end where the c clips are mine are rusted out.
 
I don't believe anyone maks new sockets for the torsion bar crossmember. Rust-Technicians just make the caps for that part of the frame. There is a tool that clamps around the torion bar and has a flat pad that is struck with a hammer to remove tough torsion bars. You can also make one. If your not re-using the t-bar, just clamp something tight around the bar and hammer it out., or use a brass drift on the end at the socket.
 
Thanks gts340 I am not reusing them as they don't look like they would withstand a hard launch. So I can just hammer them back through correct?
 
Hey I just did this. I wrapped a rag around a small section of the t-bar, then I put a vice-grip over it (very tightly so it won't slip, I put the rag on to keep from scratching the bars, it didn't work the first time, but I re-wrapped it and it didn't make anymore marks), then I used a brass punch on the vice-grip. It took quite a number of hits before it started to move, but once it did, it slid right out. And I don't suggest using this method if you are going to keep the t-bars, as I put some small marks on mine, but you said you aren't going to so it shouldn't be a problem.
 
Yes, they can be pounded forward, just hit them from the back if your not re-using them.
 
Just to make sure I got this straight do you pound them toward the back of the car? I am new to torsion bars as you can probably tell!
 
Yep, they slide out the back. I recently did mine also. Make sure you back out the adjusters all the way to make sure there is no tension on the bars, that could cause unwanted binding and make the job harder. On mine even after backing the adjusters all the way out there was still a slight bit of tension and I had to use a pair of channel locks to continue rotating it about an 1/8 inch. A couple of whacks and out they came. I lso bought some flat stock steel and made some homemade clamps to whack on instead of the vise-grips. Good luck
 
Thanks for all the info guys hopefully I will get to this within the next day or so and then I can start fabrication of the front rails, I am sure I will have m0ore questions as I progress thanks again!
 
Another method which works well if you are disassembling the entire front suspension is to use the lower control arm to drive them out. To do this you remove the nut holding the strut rod onto the arm, as well as removing the nut from the pivot pin. A couple good whacks rearward on the arm with a deadblow hammer and everything comes apart.
 
If you plan on removing K frame as well as the t-bars you can simply.. set frt of car on good jackstands, put wheel chocks in frt of rear tires... unbolt k frame while supporting it on a jack and slide whole k frame w/ lower arms n t-bars forward. A tow strap around the k frame n my pick up pullin whole thing dropped out easily and mine were pretty rusty. Be Gentle pullin as you dont want the car crashing off the stands, A helper (friend) is good...
 
Thanks for the tip eric wish I thought of that before, I have the whole front clip in the floor now so I could actually secure it and hook the 4x4 onto the kframe thanks.
 
70dart, when I did mine on the 66, I ran into the same problem, seized solid and couldn't move them. Once I had everything unbolted, I just took a large ball peen hammer and alternately tapped the rear of the K member from one side to the other, and it just slid off the torsion bars. I don't really think you need to hook the 4x4 to it. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top