Trans Kickdown Linkage Guru Sought

[64ragtop]

After my slightly embarrassing "schoolin'" by several members, I went back to some "as found" pictures of the ragtop. The car came to me with an Edelbrock carb on a 1" high adapter and the K/D linkage totally FUBAR. What I spotted first was the linkage was out of alignment, due to the lack of the throttle linkage add-on that Eddy sells. What I missed at that time (and ever since) is that the REAR of the slot needs to be against the carb stud, not the front as it was.

So, I figured a simple adjustment ....Ha, anyone ever make THAT mistake? With the adjustable front piece of the linkage rod screwed as far as it would go, the carb stud is only at the midpoint of the slot. Seems to me that the best fix is to cut that rod and re-thread it. That will can get the stud all the way back and still allow for adjustment of the slotted piece.

Anyone have better ideas??

ATB

BC

 

[memike]

First thing is the pressure valve on the trans, How does it shift as you slowly take off, slow role? does it shift out right ? or douse it shift to early ? and douse it kick down to passing gear for you ? I have put a small nut and bolt in the slide area on the kick down linkage so it move back sooner as I drove it, and adjust farther back if it kicks down to soon..... if it is not shifting in to 2 gear soon enough the kick down is back to far.. and if it shifts to soon I would move my added nut and bolt forward so the pressure valve is getting opened sooner.... be careful, if it is shifting in to 3rd gear to soon you could burn your trans up, low pressure on the clutch packs..

 

[memike]

I hope this makes sense :hello2:

 

[Bulldozer]

just do what i did and make the KD rod longer

 

[memike]

just do what i did and make the KD rod longer

That would work :cheers:

 

[Bulldozer]

That would work :cheers:

LOL the whole reason i had to do that is because the whole set-up is for a 2 barrel. i made the rod 1 1/2 longer and it works perfect :cheers:

 

[kt340sport]

Get an edelbrock part # 1481 , thats what i did , and , when you lenghten the rod farther away the shift point is, shorten closer the shift point .

 

[64ragtop]

Thanks, folks! 73AbodEE, An inch and a half longer should put the back of the slot on the carb stud, then the rod would begin to move at the same time as the throttle begins to open, Looking for that nut would probably be easier if I knew what to ask for at the hardware store. I have the tools and know how to use them. Darn I'm glad for this forum!

ATB

BC

 

[Moparguy1]

Get a Lokar kickdown cable and be done with it. I have one and love the way it works and looks.

 

[Bulldozer]

Thanks, folks! 73AbodEE, An inch and a half longer should put the back of the slot on the carb stud, then the rod would begin to move at the same time as the throttle begins to open, Looking for that nut would probably be easier if I knew what to ask for at the hardware store. I have the tools and know how to use them. Darn I'm glad for this forum!

ATB

BC

just unscrew the slotted adjuster, take it in with you to ace or wherever, get a short piece of all thread and a long nut that fit together and cut off what you need when you get home

its a 5.00 fix if you dont need anything fancy

 

[65Val]

You need this adapter as well, to provide the proper "arc" for the KD to travel through...

You also need to correct your fast-idle cam issue on that AFB in then top pic.
.

 

[my5thmopar]

I think you need an Edelbrock 8004 rod extension. 5/16 and it is a funny thread count ...so I bought one at Oreilly for 7 bucks. Fixed my trouble.

 

[64ragtop]

You need this adapter as well, to provide the proper "arc" for the KD to travel through...

You also need to correct your fast-idle cam issue on that AFB in then top pic.
.

65, Your link just takes me to a picture, no part info. I looked around the streetperformancusa website and didn't find anything similar. How would I attach it to my ThermoQuad and how would it provide the proper arc for the KD, please?

The carb in that first pic is the Eddy 1406 that came on a 1' high adaptor to fit the Thermoquad manifold. It's gathering dust in the garage.

Another poster said I need an Edelbrock 1481. I bought one of those when I thought I was gonna use the 1406. It seems to be basically a spacer to move the eddy throttle plate out to where the KD linkage operates. The P.O. had just bent the KD linkage to meet up with the 1406. The ThermoQuad is wider than the Eddy and its throttle lines up with the KD linkage.

I truly do appreciate all the input, folks. For now I'm just gonna stretch that KD rod and see what that does. Thank you all.

ATB

BC

 

[fishy68]

Man that is some screwed up linkage. No wonder it doesn't work right. By how it looks to me it's amazing the throttle cable doesn't catch on the fast idle linkage or cam. Your kickdown is just a part of the problem and if you buy the Eddy adapter a couple guys say to buy how the heck would you ever get the throttle cable hooked up with the current mounting bracket it has that places the throttle cable so far inboard? IMO you need to take the whole mess off and throw it away cause every part looks like a mismatch and buy yourself Lokar throttle cable and kickdown cable kits and install them and be done with it. Here's what the Lokar stuff looks like

 

[65Val]

You don't need that adapter for the TQ...you need it for that generic linkage Eddy in the first pic 'cause it does not have Chrysler throttle linkage. The adapter moves the throttle cable stud and KD connection to the proper position (not just out) to function correctly. Has nothing to do with the carb spacer adapter.

Just do a Google search for Mopar carb linkage adapter to find where to buy one of those...prpbaly Summit/Jegs/your local parts store.

 

[Bulldozer]

mine is working perfect by doing nothing more than extending the kickdown rod. i have no throttle linkage adapter on mine.

 

[65Val]

OK, so if it's not needed, why would a company build one, and keep on building AND selling them if they weren't needed???

 

[64ragtop]

Man that is some screwed up linkage. No wonder it doesn't work right. By how it looks to me it's amazing the throttle cable doesn't catch on the fast idle linkage or cam. Your kickdown is just a part of the problem and if you buy the Eddy adapter a couple guys say to buy how the heck would you ever get the throttle cable hooked up with the current mounting bracket it has that places the throttle cable so far inboard? IMO you need to take the whole mess off and throw it away cause every part looks like a mismatch and buy yourself Lokar throttle cable and kickdown cable kits and install them and be done with it. Here's what the Lokar stuff looks like

Ripping it all out and installing the Bouchillon cable kickdown is seeming more likely by the minute. I also have a Lokar throttle & kickdown setup, but the Bouchillon has useable instructions and includes a tranny lever that has a place for a return spring. The best use of my time right now seems to be adding the length to the rod and seeing what that does.

You don't need that adapter for the TQ...you need it for that generic linkage Eddy in the first pic 'cause it does not have Chrysler throttle linkage. The adapter moves the throttle cable stud and KD connection to the proper position (not just out) to function correctly. Has nothing to do with the carb spacer adapter.....

I realized that the picture you sent IS the Edy 1481. I got the one I bought years ago opened the package and read the instructions. They state that the 1481 is to be installed on the Eddy Performer Series carb as part of the prep to install the eddy carb with Chrysler linkage. Guess I'll put it with the Eddy carb for some future project or posterity, whichever comes first.

Th adventure continues....

ATB

BC

 

[fishy68]

OK, so if it's not needed, why would a company build one, and keep on building AND selling them if they weren't needed???

It is needed in some cases, other times it isn't. Just depends on the setup. Just because a company makes and sells something doesn't mean everyone needs it.

Look at the first picture he posted and tell me how would you ever hook up the throttle cable if he installed the adapter that moves the linkage stud out another inch? The throttle cable mount has it positioned in so far already it nearly rubs the carb body. If it had a different throttle cable mount that positioned the cable a couple inches out farther the adapter would probably work.

 

[fishy68]

mine is working perfect by doing nothing more than extending the kickdown rod. i have no throttle linkage adapter on mine.

Perfect example of a linkage setup that does not require the adapter.

 

[64ragtop]

OOps, Double post...

 

[Oldmanmopar]

You guys are forgetting about the geometry built into the linkage. It is different from 4bbl. to 2bbl. The major difference is the lever on the trans. It is a lot shorter and sits at a different angle. The rest was changed to make the difference up for the height of the intake and the different cable bracket. The arc on the carb must match the trans. All pivots have a certain ratio that is instrumental to its correct operation. Its not just Kick down its throttle pressure. There is a button for kickdown at its furthest travel. The rest Of the travel between that flat out and idle controls trans fluid pressure for proper shifting. A part throttle kickdown servo is a good addition . Found on most 4x4's Taxis and police. Some fleet cars.

 

[65Val]

The arc on the carb must match the trans. All pivots have a certain ratio that is instrumental to its correct operation. Its not just Kick down its throttle pressure. There is a button for kickdown at its furthest travel. The rest Of the travel between that flat out and idle controls trans fluid pressure for proper shifting.

Thank OMM....exactly what I've been trying to say...but nobody's lisnin'.

 

[66durgederp]

so, blue, 2 bbl, and the oranges are for a 4bbl right? the trans arm on the setup i have 318/904 (factory to 87, highway patrol rig) had a longer arm than the stock 225/906 by barely a 1/4 inch, and was about 1/2 an inch more towards the rear of the car....i had to run the slant arm for a while because of floor interference issues with the factory arm. it shifted like a dream but it was a pain to get it to kickdown at full throttle, just short of smashing the pedal through the floor. since then ive "fixed" the floor and now am running the proper arm, adjusted it throttle fully open, arm and its farthest travel towards the rear of the car, now it shifts fine under light throttle, but way too fast under heavy load. driving me nuts.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

You need a lighter governer and a part throttle kickdown servo.

so, blue, 2 bbl, and the oranges are for a 4bbl right? the trans arm on the setup i have 318/904 (factory to 87, highway patrol rig) had a longer arm than the stock 225/906 by barely a 1/4 inch, and was about 1/2 an inch more towards the rear of the car....i had to run the slant arm for a while because of floor interference issues with the factory arm. it shifted like a dream but it was a pain to get it to kickdown at full throttle, just short of smashing the pedal through the floor. since then ive "fixed" the floor and now am running the proper arm, adjusted it throttle fully open, arm and its farthest travel towards the rear of the car, now it shifts fine under light throttle, but way too fast under heavy load. driving me nuts.