ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
This is a 67 cuda I bought not to long ago. Does the trans tail mount section seem to off center to you guys?
Trans seem crooked?
- Thread starter ChuckDock
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Bolts missing from the trans mount ?
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
That's is about what the offset is. Thanks for posting, that is relieving.
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
The 4 bolts that hold the trans mount to the frame are all their and good. I see 1 bolt from the trans to the trans mount, but that's it. That part seems ok but I could be wrong.
Two bolts from trans to mount have seen them come loose and fall out
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
Ah, I know what you mean. I'll have to dissemble a bit to tell. The bolt holes are filled with black goop of some sort..
The driveline will let you know if the trans is crooked. Vibration would certainly occur.
Looking at the last picture it is definitely off to the right, my trans is centered with the stud coming out of the crossmember. Ether the bolts fell out of the trans or the mount is ripped.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Yeah I'm going with a busted sandwich, ripped, torn, separated, or just plain fubared
It looks off the right, but if you look at the exhaust there isn't much room for it to move left without hitting the exhaust.
Have you been driving it? Like @fishmens67 said, it should be vibrating.
Have you been driving it? Like @fishmens67 said, it should be vibrating.
It is offset from the transmission mount. As mentioned either missing bolts to the transmission or broke trans mount.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
umm yeah , you need to fix that asap if you are driving it
You may want to consider changing it to the later model spool type mount but you would need the correct cross member also my experience with the early style is they are prone to breaking
famous bob
mopar misfit
THIS------^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
Well..Missed all these updates. I'll have to drop the trans mount and take a look.
I have driven the car but only around 10 miles. Nothing felt bad as far as vibrations go but I probably only went 50 mph max. I'm re-doing the front end for better driving right now. I just converted it from power steering to manual, and am replacing all the tie rod ends and sleeves with a 9/16 diameter flavor setup. Interior and dash are out too..sound proofing it, fixed electrical issues and adding a good stereo. Hope to have it back together shortly, just been battling a sciatic nerve issue..slowing me done, lol.
Thanks for the info, sure sounds like I need to investigate.
I have driven the car but only around 10 miles. Nothing felt bad as far as vibrations go but I probably only went 50 mph max. I'm re-doing the front end for better driving right now. I just converted it from power steering to manual, and am replacing all the tie rod ends and sleeves with a 9/16 diameter flavor setup. Interior and dash are out too..sound proofing it, fixed electrical issues and adding a good stereo. Hope to have it back together shortly, just been battling a sciatic nerve issue..slowing me done, lol.
Thanks for the info, sure sounds like I need to investigate.
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
Shoot, It had another 10k miles I'd bet....
Trans still sits off center in the space. I can push it over, but takes a little force.
The motor mounts look new but the drivers side seems odd. Should that top hole be empty?
Trans still sits off center in the space. I can push it over, but takes a little force.
The motor mounts look new but the drivers side seems odd. Should that top hole be empty?
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
Looks like if I loosen both motor mounts, I'll be able to shift the trans in the right spot..
Once I get the new mount I'll know.
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
Well, still no luck. Got the new trans mount in but had to use force to make stuff line up in the center, so something has to be wrong. Seems like the only thing that would make the trans off center is if the engine motor mounts were wrong, or installed wrong I guess.
When I look on line at replacement motor mounts and the brackets, I see all sorts of different ones.
Do these seem right to you guys?
When I look on line at replacement motor mounts and the brackets, I see all sorts of different ones.
Do these seem right to you guys?
ChuckDock
Well-Known Member
That sounds like a good idea Dave. I'll try that. Thanks!
340demon72
Well-Known Member
318's and 340/360 have different drivers side engine brackets. The biscuits are the same for both sides. In the picture below the drivers side mounts have the engine designation on them. The passenger side brackets are the same for all small block displacements. These are like the mounts on my '72 340. Seems like a "67 would be the same but I'm no expert. The 318 mounting ears are approx. 2 3/8" apart on both sides. The 340/360 ears are approx. 1 7/8" apart on the drivers side, thus the narrower bracket on that side. Too me your drivers side bracket looks incorrect (maybe for a B or E body) but I'm not sure........ The engines in A bodies are offset to one side but they are parallel to the frame rails so keep that in mind and also don't get the distributor too close to the firewall if you do some adjusting! Let us know what you find and how you make out.
replicaracer43
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It also looks like you have truck insulators, the car ones are a bit thinner in appearance
Also to add to the above, I just had the mounts out of my 360 Dart, the upper two ears on the medal stand measure 2 23/32" Outside to outside. This is for the 340/360.
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