TRW piston id

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dukeboy440

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anyone got a spec sheet for these circa 1988 TRW 3017f pistons? Would be for a 360

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I have exactly what you are asking for..... but it's 250 miles away.
Pretty sure I used a 3017f in a 440 stroker app. It was a 400 b-engine piston.
Without my book here, I could easily be wrong.
 
I have exactly what you are asking for..... but it's 250 miles away.
Pretty sure I used a 3017f in a 440 stroker app. It was a 400 b-engine piston.
Yeah this is in a 360 that was bored and offset ground to a 408 back in may of 1988. Just curious what the specs are on them. Doesn’t appear to be anything special
 
Yeah this is in a 360 that was bored and offset ground to a 408 back in may of 1988. Just curious what the specs are on them. Doesn’t appear to be anything special
ehhhhh.....I hate to bust your bubble, but two things. First, that's a stock replacement 360 piston with the exception that it's forged. Secondly, it is impossible to offset grind a 3.58" crank to a 4" crank, which is what you need for a 408. So more likely than not, it's a stock stroke 360. All is not lost, because even though they are stock compression, they are nice pistons. Be good for a turbo or blower or nitrous, or you could mill the heads and deck the block some to get a little more compression. As is, they will do good to blueprint at a flat 8:1.
 
From this far away..... mine might have been 3014f. Mine were .030 400 pistons, so .050 over 440, plus a 4.25 crank and 440 rods, for 511.
I can't count how many times I have used the piston appendix in my 1988 TRW catalog.
 
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ehhhhh.....I hate to bust your bubble, but two things. First, that's a stock replacement 360 piston with the exception that it's forged. Secondly, it is impossible to offset grind a 3.58" crank to a 4" crank, which is what you need for a 408. So more likely than not, it's a stock stroke 360. All is not lost, because even though they are stock compression, they are nice pistons. Be good for a turbo or blower or nitrous, or you could mill the heads and deck the block some to get a little more compression. As is, they will do good to blueprint at a flat 8:1.
Thanks!!! I’m just fine with it being a stock build. Just going back into my w200 for use as a truck again instead of a paper weight. It has been decked, I’m pretty sure of it. pistons are about .04 down the hole at TDC.

What’s the point of the notches on the side there
 
Thanks!!! I’m just fine with it being a stock build. Just going back into my w200 for use as a truck again instead of a paper weight. It has been decked, I’m pretty sure of it. pistons are about .04 down the hole at TDC.

What’s the point of the notches on the side there
I ALMOST included that it would be a FANTASTIC truck engine AS IS as far as compression. With the correct camshaft, and matching bolt ons to match the compression, it can be a torque powerhouse. In fact, that's how I'd build it regardless of what it was going in. I think people put too much emphasis on compression because of all the magazines and forums. It will run fine.
 
Thanks!!! I’m just fine with it being a stock build. Just going back into my w200 for use as a truck again instead of a paper weight. It has been decked, I’m pretty sure of it. pistons are about .04 down the hole at TDC.

What’s the point of the notches on the side there
The notches are there to indicate the front of the pistons.
 
I ALMOST included that it would be a FANTASTIC truck engine AS IS as far as compression. With the correct camshaft, and matching bolt ons to match the compression, it can be a torque powerhouse. In fact, that's how I'd build it regardless of what it was going in. I think people put too much emphasis on compression because of all the magazines and forums. It will run fine.
Supposedly has an Eddy torker camshaft with a 5 degree timing key in it. If I recall right from what the paperwork said. IT’s definitely a low end motor, you can feel it fall flat about 4500-5000 rpm
 
Supposedly has an Eddy torker camshaft with a 5 degree timing key in it. If I recall right from what the paperwork said. IT’s definitely a low end motor, you can feel it fall flat about 4500-5000 rpm
The Torker is the bigger of the two between the Performer and Torker. Can you HEAR the cam? If it's a Torker, it will not sound stock. I would say the Torker is a bit big for that compression. Something similar to the Performer would be a better match, but the Torker will SOUND more like a truck.
 
The Torker is the bigger of the two between the Performer and Torker. Can you HEAR the cam? If it's a Torker, it will not sound stock. I would say the Torker is a bit big for that compression. Something similar to the Performer would be a better match, but the Torker will SOUND more like a truck.
Oh yeah. It’s definitely lopes.
 
Oh yeah. It’s definitely lopes.
Then it's certainly the Torker. How far down are you taking it? I ask because it would respond much better if you advance that cam a few degrees from the card.
 
Even if you leave it where it is, it will probably run fine. "It could" have more bottom end, but it won't be a deal breaker.
 
Your W200 should have 4.10 gears, it will run pretty good, with a small 4bbl and headers.
 
Then it's certainly the Torker. How far down are you taking it? I ask because it would respond much better if you advance that cam a few degrees from the card.
Not sure yet. I pulled it out from the barn lot back in 2001. Got it running again and played in the mud with it a bit before parking it again. Needs all new brakes and suspension rebuilt. maybe 1200 miles on it since the rebuild in 1988. The thing got parked cause the 1989 ram 350 Cummins came about. The 78 gets maybe 6 mpg with 4.56 gears that were swapped in. I have the original 4.10s that I plan to go back too. That and the granny 4 speed plus All time 4x4 doesn’t help.
 
Has a performer intake swap already, factory manifolds though.
I would add a set of Headman Headers to the combo.
Truck headers are nothing like A body headers, no dents required. You do not even have to un-bolt the engine, just drop the starter and oil filter.
The drivers side slides up thru the bottom, and the passenger side will drop in from the top. If you are careful you will not even scratch the paint on the headers.
And I would leave the 4.56 gears.
 
These pics are from 2001 when I drug it out of the weeds and muck.

Story behind this truck.

My grandfather ordered it new in 1978. Originally was supposed to have a 400 4 speed, however, it was late in the year and they called him about 3 weeks prior to delivery and said hey, we’re out of 400s, would you take a 360 instead if we refund you some money and knock some more off. He accepted.

Anyway, this would be the farm truck until 1988 when it overheated and cracked the passenger side head. 81,000 miles on it. Anyway, my uncle and my grandfather tore it down in May of 1988. I was just over a year old and walking. Somehow, I managed to ingest mineral spirits used to clean the thing. Spent 2 weeks in ICU.
My grandfather would take delivery the following fall on a ram 350 Cummins and this thing got parked. Until I found an interest in it in 2001 on spring break. We tore down the carb, rebuilt it and the dizzy and she ran just fine. I played with it for a few years here and there but decided I wanted to do a full resto on it. But didn’t have the skills. So enter the dart, which was my practice canvas. Now however, it’s time for this thing while the dart is at the stripper next month and then off to paint.

@toolmanmike can you move this to the restoration sub forum please?

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I would add a set of Headman Headers to the combo.
Truck headers are nothing like A body headers, no dents required. You do not even have to un-bolt the engine, just drop the starter and oil filter.
The drivers side slides up thru the bottom, and the passenger side will drop in from the top. If you are careful you will not even scratch the paint on the headers.
And I would leave the 4.56 gears.
I may leave them. Just depends. Right now in 4hi fourth gear, she’s at about 4500 rpm’s at 55 if memory serves me right. It’s got 31s on it, may jump up to 37s if I can find the lift components.
 
The day it came home originally from Michigan

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These pics are from 2001 when I drug it out of the weeds and muck.

Story behind this truck.

My grandfather ordered it new in 1978. Originally was supposed to have a 400 4 speed, however, it was late in the year and they called him about 3 weeks prior to delivery and said hey, we’re out of 400s, would you take a 360 instead if we refund you some money and knock some more off. He accepted.

Anyway, this would be the farm truck until 1988 when it overheated and cracked the passenger side head. 81,000 miles on it. Anyway, my uncle and my grandfather tore it down in May of 1988. I was just over a year old and walking. Somehow, I managed to ingest mineral spirits used to clean the thing. Spent 2 weeks in ICU.
My grandfather would take delivery the following fall on a ram 350 Cummins and this thing got parked. Until I found an interest in it in 2001 on spring break. We tore down the carb, rebuilt it and the dizzy and she ran just fine. I played with it for a few years here and there but decided I wanted to do a full resto on it. But didn’t have the skills. So enter the dart, which was my practice canvas. Now however, it’s time for this thing while the dart is at the stripper next month and then off to paint.

@toolmanmike can you move this to the restoration sub forum please?

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I may be able to move it if you have the IP address where it is supposed to go.
 
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