Tunnel Ram 383

-
These tunnel ram threads remind me of the political threads, lol!

I appreciate the input, good or bad, so thank you everyone.

Compression: if I need more- what is everyone using to make this determination?
Will using the pistons it has, (from what I am told '9:1'), and the 915 heads, (not using the 452s), solve this issue?
If not, how can I raise it?

Cam: if I raise the compression, should I get a cam with a larger duration number?

The carbs were cheap, so if they are too much it won't be the end of the world to swap them out for smaller ones.

I could just put together what I have and see what happens.

As long as I can drive this thing and run pump gas, I can make adjustments like others have when attempting this ridiculousness, lol!

The experiment continues...

One thing that is in your favor is it being a 383 (low deck), they rev faster then a longer stroke, this will help, The compression isn't horribly low, You could mill the heads around .030", this should put you closer to 9.5.1, make sure either way you use the .019" steel shim gaskets, The W. Streetram is the best street intake you'll find for the BB, so your good there, the 600s will work decent, 1/2 throttle it should be a monster.
 
Alot of people have opinions but not alot of people have run them.

Mines a 9.4:1 360 - I put the eddy street ram on it for the small plenum. Holley 390's with the vac tube - the signal is the same -you just want the carbs to open the exact same time so the balance tube draws the same vacuum no matter what.

progressive linkage with a t-ram is not very practical - the front 4 will be rich or lean depending on which is your primary carb IMO -

I went 13.2 @ 102 with a ported 4bbl intake and 780 holley ( 390+390 = 780)

I have gone as quick as 12.56 and as fast as 108 with the eddy street ram and dual holleys - no other changes - the 60's are similar.

1.86 60' with the 4bbl
1.74 with the t-ram -

this is a street car with 3.23 gears - i can get 16 mpg on the highway if i keep out of it.

I ran a mopar 474 lift p4452992 cam and still run it today - never ever had any issues with the t-ram - I use a shower cap over it when it's raining and never look back!

I've had it on since 2005.


DSC03032.JPG


DSCN4399.jpg


Balance tubes:
DSCN4394.jpg
 
One thing that is in your favor is it being a 383 (low deck), they rev faster then a longer stroke, this will help, The compression isn't horribly low, You could mill the heads around .030", this should put you closer to 9.5.1, make sure either way you use the .019" steel shim gaskets, The W. Streetram is the best street intake you'll find for the BB, so your good there, the 600s will work decent, 1/2 throttle it should be a monster.

We're talking about the 915 heads, correct?

They are the heads with the original engine, so I don't want to mill these heads, but I can certainly use them.
 
Final cam question, hopefully.

Is the Edelbrock cam that goes with the Performer RPM intake #7186 a good choice for the tunnel ram?

They dumb down the selection by providing all the corresponding parts, springs, timing chain, etc, one stop shopping, right now I only have the Lunati cam, (no lifters/springs/chain/pushrods), and etc, etc.

CATALOG #7194
RPM RANGE: 1500-6500
CAUTION: Do not use dual valve springs.
Use only recommended Edelbrock Sure Seat Valve Springs
#5792. Use stock ratio rocker arms only.
• Duration at .004" Lift: Intake 300° Exhaust 308°
• Duration at .050" Lift: Intake 238° Exhaust 246°
• Lift at cam: Intake .320" Exhaust .330"
• Lift at valve: Intake .480" Exhaust .495"
• Timing at .050 Lift:
Open Close
Intake 14° BTDC 44° ABDC
Exhaust 58° BBDC 8° ATDC
• Centerlines:
Lobe separation angle: 110°
Intake centerline: 105°
 
Moper, the 660s were the problem on such a mild engine, what made you pick carbs like that LOL.

I was told they were tunnel ram carbs. The fellow that told me was right. They are THE (IMO) tunnel ram carbs...lol. You have to understand I came from a non-car loving family. In my teens, I had no mentors so I did every possible stupid ignorant thing I could think of. Like the sheild I made so the oil that leaked off the back of the intake wouldnt hit the exh Y-pipe crossover and smoke on my stock 318 with a holley 3310 an valve covers painted "chrome". Ever notice the cap is never what the paint looks like???!!! It took longer to make and more money than fixing the leak. I had to buy a pop rivet tool to do it...lol.
 
Compression: if I need more- what is everyone using to make this determination?
Experience in blueprinting B wedge blocks, experience with factory open chamber head measured chamber volumes, and the "9:1" reference.

Will using the pistons it has, (from what I am told '9:1'), and the 915 heads, (not using the 452s), solve this issue?
No. Even by buying on-the-shelf pistons you have to have the block decked significantly to get the installed height where the piston companies say it needs to be (the blueprint height). The best you can get is about 10: using a domed KB hyper and closed chamber heads with thin gaskets. IMO, you should have at least 10.5:1.

If not, how can I raise it?
If I was building a 383 for you we would be getting that domed piston, using the 915s and milling them to 80ccs, setting the quench at .030, and the static somewhere around 10.75:1. This all takes extra machining and costs more, BTW.

Cam: if I raise the compression, should I get a cam with a larger duration number? You should get a cam that does what you want. Assuming the same 10.8:1 static ratio, I'd look at a solid flat tappet around 240° @ .050 which will allow pump 89 fuel and pull as high as you feel comfortable shifting at.

The carbs were cheap, so if they are too much it won't be the end of the world to swap them out for smaller ones. They would work witht he above combo, but like DJV and 340, need to be synch'ed and tuned.

I could just put together what I have and see what happens. Might want to, just for kicks. If you like it, that's all that matters.

As long as I can drive this thing and run pump gas, I can make adjustments like others have when attempting this ridiculousness, lol!

The experiment continues...

If you like it, that's all that matters. :toothy3:
 
Final cam question, hopefully.

Is the Edelbrock cam that goes with the Performer RPM intake #7186 a good choice for the tunnel ram?

They dumb down the selection by providing all the corresponding parts, springs, timing chain, etc, one stop shopping, right now I only have the Lunati cam, (no lifters/springs/chain/pushrods), and etc, etc.

CATALOG #7194
RPM RANGE: 1500-6500
CAUTION: Do not use dual valve springs.
Use only recommended Edelbrock Sure Seat Valve Springs
#5792. Use stock ratio rocker arms only.
• Duration at .004" Lift: Intake 300° Exhaust 308°
• Duration at .050" Lift: Intake 238° Exhaust 246°
• Lift at cam: Intake .320" Exhaust .330"
• Lift at valve: Intake .480" Exhaust .495"
• Timing at .050 Lift:
Open Close
Intake 14° BTDC 44° ABDC
Exhaust 58° BBDC 8° ATDC
• Centerlines:
Lobe separation angle: 110°
Intake centerline: 105°
id run the cam you have if your going to keep cr in the 9-9.5 range.it may not rpm as high as the eddy but the low end/throttle response will be better.and id run it with smaller carbs.if your dead set on getting a new cam then buy a custom grind,its not that much more and you can get exactly what you want.and look at solids like moper suggested.
 
I was told they were tunnel ram carbs. The fellow that told me was right. They are THE (IMO) tunnel ram carbs...lol. You have to understand I came from a non-car loving family. In my teens, I had no mentors so I did every possible stupid ignorant thing I could think of. Like the sheild I made so the oil that leaked off the back of the intake wouldnt hit the exh Y-pipe crossover and smoke on my stock 318 with a holley 3310 an valve covers painted "chrome". Ever notice the cap is never what the paint looks like???!!! It took longer to make and more money than fixing the leak. I had to buy a pop rivet tool to do it...lol.
it seems our worlds arent that far apart.....i learned the hard way as well.lots of doing it wrong,because i had no one to help with anything whatsoever.i will admit i have spent way more time getting my set up to run as good as it does then i ever did with the single annular booster holley and rpm air gap.i have been rewarded for my effort though.
 
Yeah, once you learn the ins & outs to making a TR work you can't go wrong, they WILL make more HP & Torque, but once you learn, for the most part you'll never forget & make the same mistake/mistakes twice.

Moper, you are right, 660s are indeed TR carbs, just not feesable on a mild engine, there basically a "race" carb for WOT.
 
Matt

I sent you a PM but your mailbox is full. I had some questions for you in reference to your 67-69 Barracuda registry you have started. Could you please clean out a few PM's I was hoping to send you the message. Thanks

Carl
 
-
Back
Top