loubee
Well-Known Member
Hi guys, I need to replace the canceler but am unable to remove the horn ring. Is there a trick to it? Also, any special tools needed to change out canceler?
Turn signal canceler
- Thread starter loubee
- Start date
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lilnoah
Supercharged slant six with 4 speed and 8.25
I did mine on my 64 Valiant and it was fairly easy. Mine had no wires to fool with. I did have to get a generic steering wheel pulled from oreilly to get steering wheel off
slantsixdan
=..=
If by "canceller" you mean the plastic cam atop the turn signal switch, replace it if you like, but the odds are it'll break again soon -- the replacement cams are not of good or durable quality. And replacing the cam doesn't fix the rest of the mechanical wear and electrical high resistance in the old switch. (Yes, this is a sales pitch for one of these)
As for the remove/replace: it's not difficult. These instructions are for doing the whole switch, but you can use just the parts of it that apply if you're doing the partial job and just replacing the cam.
Remove the steering wheel's central ornament -- it pops off; there's a slot at its 6:00 position to accept a screwdriver or popsicle stick (better choice, less likely to chip/crack the plastic). Remove the ground wire from its terminal. Remove the three screws holding the horn ring/button and horn switch. Don't lose the black plastic spacers. Lift out the horn switch. Remove the steering wheel nut. Use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Remove the single screw that holds the turn signal lever to the switch and remove the lever. Remove the three screws holding the switch to the column and lift out the metal retainer plate.
The switch plugs into the under-dash wiring harness with a rectangular nylon multi-connector block at the base of the steering column (inside the car). You remove the nylon connector block by releasing each individual wire from the block, one at a time. This is achieved by means of a Terminal Extractor Pick (or, if you're in a hurry and don't want to spend money, a darning needle), inserted into the slot at the "front" (connector) end to depress the terminal's lock tab. Then a careful tug of the wire pulls it out the back of the connector block.
Draw yourself a diagram of which wire goes to which slot in the connector block.
Once you've released all the terminals from the block, tie a long piece of string or twine round the bundle of wires at the very end near the terminals. Withdraw the old switch, which will pull the string up the column. Untie it, tie it round the wire bundle on the new switch, then pull the string to guide the new wire bundle down the column without any of the wires snagging and refusing to show themselves at the bottom. Insert the wires into their correct locations in the terminal block, plug it back in, reassemble everything up top (make sure to match the steering wheel's double-wide master spline with its mate on the steering shaft)...and you're done!
The new switch will seem VERY stiff and "clicky" compared to the sloppy old one. That's normal.
As for the remove/replace: it's not difficult. These instructions are for doing the whole switch, but you can use just the parts of it that apply if you're doing the partial job and just replacing the cam.
Remove the steering wheel's central ornament -- it pops off; there's a slot at its 6:00 position to accept a screwdriver or popsicle stick (better choice, less likely to chip/crack the plastic). Remove the ground wire from its terminal. Remove the three screws holding the horn ring/button and horn switch. Don't lose the black plastic spacers. Lift out the horn switch. Remove the steering wheel nut. Use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Remove the single screw that holds the turn signal lever to the switch and remove the lever. Remove the three screws holding the switch to the column and lift out the metal retainer plate.
The switch plugs into the under-dash wiring harness with a rectangular nylon multi-connector block at the base of the steering column (inside the car). You remove the nylon connector block by releasing each individual wire from the block, one at a time. This is achieved by means of a Terminal Extractor Pick (or, if you're in a hurry and don't want to spend money, a darning needle), inserted into the slot at the "front" (connector) end to depress the terminal's lock tab. Then a careful tug of the wire pulls it out the back of the connector block.
Draw yourself a diagram of which wire goes to which slot in the connector block.
Once you've released all the terminals from the block, tie a long piece of string or twine round the bundle of wires at the very end near the terminals. Withdraw the old switch, which will pull the string up the column. Untie it, tie it round the wire bundle on the new switch, then pull the string to guide the new wire bundle down the column without any of the wires snagging and refusing to show themselves at the bottom. Insert the wires into their correct locations in the terminal block, plug it back in, reassemble everything up top (make sure to match the steering wheel's double-wide master spline with its mate on the steering shaft)...and you're done!
The new switch will seem VERY stiff and "clicky" compared to the sloppy old one. That's normal.
loubee
Well-Known Member
Excellent information. Thank you! This car is new to me and I haven't had a chance to pick up a Shop Manual. Where does one purchase the switch you referred to? Thanks again.
Contact SlantSixDan by PM ("Converstation") and order from him. He had these made up by an original supplier -see the link "these". FWIW I bought 3 of them and they are extremely nice.
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