TV adjustment with a shift kit ( not the same "how do I adjust kickdown" question)

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motorpirate

serial mopar owner
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So, Dany's trans is in and functioning with NO LEAKS!!!
But, the just off idle shifts are late, and you can "feel" it downshift and engine brake when coming to a stop at slow speed.
We have the TV adjustment done like I have done them for decades.
WOT and TV lever all the way back at the same time.
I have set them like that all my life and never had a problem on stock transmissions.

This trans is not stock.
Superior KTF-TC shift kit, all options "Heavy Duty.
Alto "Red" clutches and bands.
4.2 KD lever
Front band 1.5 turns out, rear 4 turns out.
Wave clutch snap rings replaced with straight ones.
Both clutchpac's set up much tighter than stock, .030 on the front drum, can't remember on the rear, but I got the specs from Robert at A&A.
5k RPM governor.
Did not block the servo piston.
TV cable adjusted as I described above.

We did some pressure testing and line pressure is 95 PSI with the lever forward, and over 130 with the lever all the way to the rear. Both at 1000 RPM or so.
Stock spec I have is 54-60 PSI lever forward and 90-96 PSI lever to the rear on a stock trans.

So my question is this, If my lever forward pressure is almost higher than the "stock" lever to the rear spec is it safe to back off on the TV adjustment to eliminate the minor "parking lot speed" issues we have without causing the trans to slip?
My thinking is I could drive it with no TV cable at all (not that we would!) with the forward pressure being higher than the WOT speck on a stock trans with no harm.

Or, are we missing something?
 
If u can feel it down shifting when slowing down in drive u have too much throttle pressure. U will have to slack off the cable. Do u have the correct arm on the carb? Front band should be 2 turns with the 4.2 lever. U can always pull the pan and adjust the line pressure down 2 turns. How many turns is it at now? The 5 k governor wii make it shift later also. Ash the cable till ur happy. What are the wot shift points now? Kim
 
If u can feel it down shifting when slowing down in drive u have too much throttle pressure. U will have to slack off the cable. Do u have the correct arm on the carb? Front band should be 2 turns with the 4.2 lever. U can always pull the pan and adjust the line pressure down 2 turns. How many turns is it at now? The 5 k governor wii make it shift later also. Ash the cable till ur happy. What are the wot shift points now? Kim
That's what I thought.
The throttle ratio VS TV ratio is correct.
It has a Lokar cable now but I really Don't like it. Pretty crude adjustment wise.
I'm going to build a bracket to use the factory TV cable that came with the trans ( A998 from a '93 B van) next and that's when the " adjustin' " will start!!
The shift kit came with a replacement pressure spring, and the adjustment is all the way out, as per the instructions.
If I wanted to lower it I guess I could put the original spring back in and turn it up from there.
The 1-2 shift is about 4600 RPM, don't know on the 2-3 as the track is closed, and the couple days we have had it out the traffic has been too heavy. I thought everyone was supposed to stay home??
 
So, Dany's trans is in and functioning with NO LEAKS!!!
But, the just off idle shifts are late, and you can "feel" it downshift and engine brake when coming to a stop at slow speed.
We have the TV adjustment done like I have done them for decades.
WOT and TV lever all the way back at the same time.
I have set them like that all my life and never had a problem on stock transmissions.

This trans is not stock.
Superior KTF-TC shift kit, all options "Heavy Duty.
Alto "Red" clutches and bands.
4.2 KD lever
Front band 1.5 turns out, rear 4 turns out.
Wave clutch snap rings replaced with straight ones.
Both clutchpac's set up much tighter than stock, .030 on the front drum, can't remember on the rear, but I got the specs from Robert at A&A.
5k RPM governor.
Did not block the servo piston.
TV cable adjusted as I described above.

We did some pressure testing and line pressure is 95 PSI with the lever forward, and over 130 with the lever all the way to the rear. Both at 1000 RPM or so.
Stock spec I have is 54-60 PSI lever forward and 90-96 PSI lever to the rear on a stock trans.

So my question is this, If my lever forward pressure is almost higher than the "stock" lever to the rear spec is it safe to back off on the TV adjustment to eliminate the minor "parking lot speed" issues we have without causing the trans to slip?
My thinking is I could drive it with no TV cable at all (not that we would!) with the forward pressure being higher than the WOT speck on a stock trans with no harm.

Or, are we missing something?
Sounds like you are on the right track to me in thinking to back off the TP a bit.
You could also do what Kim suggested as far as pressure.

For what it's worth, I intentionally adjust mine like you say yours is.
(A little late on the low speed shifts, and can feel the downshifts)
My TP is cable controlled and I installed a small clamp on the cable to keep it from returning all the way.
Doing it this way allows the throttle to open all the way without bottoming against the TP travel.

TP control is something that takes a lot of tuning to get right where you want it, and after the kits and upgrades you may find you have to live with some of the details.
 
Yea, we discussed it on the first road test and both thought if we had to accept it for the greater good it was OK.
But, I am glad we are to the point with this thing that it's details we are working on and not "big stuff"..

Stay tuned, we have a factory "Slap Stick" conversion in the works after the TV cable bracket.
 
I've been working on getting mine adjusted right too. I have an A500 with a Transgo shift kit. I started out with the typical adjustment (full throttle, with the trans arm all the way to the rear), but had the same problem the OP had. Very high 1-2, 2-3 shift points. So I started backing off the cable adjustment at the carb, drive, adjust, drive, adjust, etc. I got it down to where the shift points at low throttle acceleration are just where I want. 1-2 at about 15mph, 2-3 at a little over 20mph.
But with the cable backed off to get the shift points nice, now it will not kickdown at highway speed 55-60. Floor it and it wont shift.
I thought maybe I could shorten the arm on the trans a bit so it would rotate a little farther with the same amount of cable travel. (I have Lokar as well).
Well after more driving/adjusting I'm still at the same point. Nice shift points, but no kickdown at highway speed. Am I on the right track though with shortening the arm on the trans ? Maybe just need to shorten it a bit more? I only moved the cable connection point inward 1/4".
 
I've been working on getting mine adjusted right too. I have an A500 with a Transgo shift kit. I started out with the typical adjustment (full throttle, with the trans arm all the way to the rear), but had the same problem the OP had. Very high 1-2, 2-3 shift points. So I started backing off the cable adjustment at the carb, drive, adjust, drive, adjust, etc. I got it down to where the shift points at low throttle acceleration are just where I want. 1-2 at about 15mph, 2-3 at a little over 20mph.
But with the cable backed off to get the shift points nice, now it will not kickdown at highway speed 55-60. Floor it and it wont shift.
I thought maybe I could shorten the arm on the trans a bit so it would rotate a little farther with the same amount of cable travel. (I have Lokar as well).
Well after more driving/adjusting I'm still at the same point. Nice shift points, but no kickdown at highway speed. Am I on the right track though with shortening the arm on the trans ? Maybe just need to shorten it a bit more? I only moved the cable connection point inward 1/4".
Answer: I'm not sure.
I do know this, our TV cable attachment point on the carb is the exact same distance from the centerline of the throttle shaft as on a factory Mopar 5.9 throttlebody. So it should have the same ratio as related to throttle position.
All of the transmission TV levers I have ( '66 904, '93 998 and 01 46RE) are all the same length.
We lost kickdown when the Lokar throttle bracket started to bend, not allowing WOT and therefore no kickdown. This began my hatred of our current setup. Something you may want to check also.
I made my own bracket out of 2" angle iron and that problem went away.
Next I will make "Bracket 2.0" to accept the factory '93 B van TV cable ( with a push button adjustment!!)
Try this: Throttle bracket a trans part? It is today!!
 
I've been working on getting mine adjusted right too. I have an A500 with a Transgo shift kit. I started out with the typical adjustment (full throttle, with the trans arm all the way to the rear), but had the same problem the OP had. Very high 1-2, 2-3 shift points. So I started backing off the cable adjustment at the carb, drive, adjust, drive, adjust, etc. I got it down to where the shift points at low throttle acceleration are just where I want. 1-2 at about 15mph, 2-3 at a little over 20mph.
But with the cable backed off to get the shift points nice, now it will not kickdown at highway speed 55-60. Floor it and it wont shift.
I thought maybe I could shorten the arm on the trans a bit so it would rotate a little farther with the same amount of cable travel. (I have Lokar as well).
Well after more driving/adjusting I'm still at the same point. Nice shift points, but no kickdown at highway speed. Am I on the right track though with shortening the arm on the trans ? Maybe just need to shorten it a bit more? I only moved the cable connection point inward 1/4".

Anything is worth a try.
You may end up doing some line pressure adjustments, but in the end there are still some things we just have to live with, or it's not worth all the hassle to change it.


Answer: I'm not sure.
I do know this, our TV cable attachment point on the carb is the exact same distance from the centerline of the throttle shaft as on a factory Mopar 5.9 throttlebody. So it should have the same ratio as related to throttle position.
All of the transmission TV levers I have ( '66 904, '93 998 and 01 46RE) are all the same length.
We lost kickdown when the Lokar throttle bracket started to bend, not allowing WOT and therefore no kickdown. This began my hatred of our current setup. Something you may want to check also.
I made my own bracket out of 2" angle iron and that problem went away.
Next I will make "Bracket 2.0" to accept the factory '93 B van TV cable ( with a push button adjustment!!)
Try this: Throttle bracket a trans part? It is today!!

I used steel mounting points also, and haven't had any problems, but I used steel from day one so I can't say about brackets bending.
 
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