Unbelievable!!!!!!!!

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Coyote Jack

Coyote Jack

Member #55, I'm old
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I went out to work on the new 340 blower engine today. First order of business was to prime the oil system. I put the rod in the drill and put it down through the dizzy hole. Start the drill slowly and then speed it up. Then there is a snap and the drill freewheels. You guessed it, the priming rod snapped off in the oil pump. After that the air turned very blue. Another setback with this engine.

Here is my question. Can I lift the engine high enough to be able to lower the oil pan enough to reach in and get the piece out of the oil pump or is this a, You have to pull the engine deal?

Jack
 
Wow. I've never heard of that one before. I wonder of something caused the oil pump to suddenly seize? That's the only thing I could think would do it. You can get the pan off in the car. It's a pain.
 
Is the other half still in the oil pump? If so, you could put a telescoping magnet down the hole and lift it out. If that's the issue, not sure why you want to lift the engine and pull the pan.
 
that a real kick in the stones with a frozen mukaluk jack .i was lookin at mine and i think it may have to be pulled but dont go by me there is more than one way to skin a moose lol. very sorry to hear this.
 
If you can get it out and it's a clean break, match it up to the other half and see if there are pieces missing. As stated, you want to get all the pieces out.
 
416stroker said:
Is the other half still in the oil pump? If so, you could put a telescoping magnet down the hole and lift it out. If that's the issue, not sure why you want to lift the engine and pull the pan.
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i was just thinking this some of those earth magnuts are very powerfull and i have a bore scope camera if u need it.
 
Time grain wod be about the same I'd you pull the engine and would be a lot easier to mess with on a stand. That's just my 2.
 
That sucks! As mentioned before what made it snap? Will you have all the pieces? Sometimes the long way is the best way. Pull the pan check the pump and the pan. Better safe then sorry. Hope it gets better for you.
 
I have pulled factory sb oil pans in the car before, the steering linkage has to come apart, I cannot recall if I had to raise the engine. You could do a much neater job with the engine on a stand....
 
Oh I know it would be much better to pull the engine and have it on the stand. But this was one of the last things I had to do to the engine before I fired it up. Remember this is not a normal engine. It has a 6-71 blower sitting on top and a multitude of blower related stuff that would all have to be taken apart again. I want to avoid that if I can. Just installing the driverside header took 2 hours. Things are really cramped in there even though it doesn't look it. It will be a lot easier for me to remove the steering linkage than to remove all the other stuff.

Jack
 
As far as what caused it to break, It was a home made priming rod from years gone by and was used many times. The weld broke and it looks like a clean break. I will be able to tell better when I get the other part out.

Jack
 
If your pan won't clear, like if it's baffled or something is fighting you, it may be worth your time to set the engine on the hoist, break the mounts loose, lift it off of the mounts with the frame on jackstands, loosen the torsion bar adjusters out to zero tension and loosen the K member from the frame to gain another inch or so, if you need it. It shouldn't need to come out, but you can gain more room that way, too.
 
Coyote Jack said:
Oh I know it would be much better to pull the engine and have it on the stand. But this was one of the last things I had to do to the engine before I fired it up. Remember this is not a normal engine. It has a 6-71 blower sitting on top and a multitude of blower related stuff that would all have to be taken apart again. I want to avoid that if I can. Just installing the driverside header took 2 hours. Things are really cramped in there even though it doesn't look it. It will be a lot easier for me to remove the steering linkage than to remove all the other stuff.

Jack
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I didn't take the supercharger in to consideration... Sorry
 
And this is why you use a hardern shaft. Why not drop the k and lift the body up. Yes you are removing the engine but everything is still hooked to the motor (unless I'm reading it wrong).
 
Did you take the pump apart, de-burr and clean?
A tool that that worked fine for years, and then suddenly broke.
Either the oil pump seized, bypass spring has an issue?
Pull the motor something else is going on.
You have way too much invested in it to second doubt anything, I always prime my motors on the engine stand.
Plus a clean break will still put metal fragments some where.
 
I would just use the magnet like 416stroker said. Compare the pieces and if everything matches. New primmer shaft and spin it slow so you are sure no pump damage. Then prime it and away you go. If worried drain the oil and put in a magnetic drain plug and new filter. If you feel it is needed drop the center link and unbolt one mount and lift as far as you can and you should be able to get it out with alot of swearing.
 
I'd pull it and make sure all pieces are out and to make sure the oil pump is ok, onetime the drive sleeve was cracked on the oil pump hex I made a priming too with a old distributor shaft to keep the top centered it worked a lot better
 
Lifting the engine is not a problem. Bolt a chain to the front of the engine and lift it with the engine hoist. It was complete removal that I want to avoid.
I will be checking the oil pump. I did check it before I installed it on the engine. I even spun it with the drill before installation. If it went bad it did it after it was installed. I think the shaft just broke after all the uses I have given it. Plus it has probably been hit a few times so the weld coul have gone weak. I will find out.

Jack
 
The verdict is in. Yes, you can remove the oil pan without lifting or removing the engine. I removed the center link in the steering and the oil pan dropped right out. That was the first good news. The second good news was the oil pump is fine. I removed it and it spins freely and pumps oil. The priming rod break was pretty clean. I mated up the pieces and there was one chunk missing. I found it in the oil pan and it fit perfectly in the break. I put the oil pump back on and left it at that for now. I will install the oil pan and prime the engine when I get a new priming rod. Overall, not a bad result for what could have been a PITA.

Jack
 
Coyote Jack said:
The verdict is in. Yes, you can remove the oil pan without lifting or removing the engine. I removed the center link in the steering and the oil pan dropped right out. That was the first good news. The second good news was the oil pump is fine. I removed it and it spins freely and pumps oil. The priming rod break was pretty clean. I mated up the pieces and there was one chunk missing. I found it in the oil pan and it fit perfectly in the break. I put the oil pump back on and left it at that for now. I will install the oil pan and prime the engine when I get a new priming rod. Overall, not a bad result for what could have been a PITA.

Jack
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That is great news.
 
Good news,
At least when the primer broke, it quit pushing oil thru the motor.
You found the pieces, I would buy a magnetic oil plug for it, there has to be something still in there.
 
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