Upper Control Arm Removal Tips

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bassguy1970

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I'm trying to remove my upper control arms as to drop the K frame. But I don't think they've ever been removed. Any tips would be much appreciated. I already broke one nut. Thanks.
 
Im sure you already know this, but I always start with a nice dousing of PB Blaster. After I got the car up I threw a second jack un the lower control arms and disconnected them, then SLOWLY lowered the 2nd jack. This took all the tension off the uppers and they came off easy as can be. But, I was taking everything off anyways to re-bush and re-boot (so doing the lower arms first wasnt a wasted step for me) At the very least I'd suggest getting the lowers supported with a jack to remove that pressure.
 
You do not need to remove the upper control arms to remove the K-member, they are attached to the sub-frame.

That being said if the adjustment bolts are so rusted into the shells you can't loosen the nuts and turn the bolts you will likely need to cut the bolts to get the UCA off.
 
Well, it's been a couple of years since I removed mine, but if I remember correctly, I just put the end of a crowbar in there under where the b ushings are and worked the upper control arms up and down, pushing the control arms out and up of their resting places. As I said, it's been awhile, but I think once you get one side out (i.e. front or rear of the upper control arm), the other comes out more easily as you can move the whole control arm more easily.

Hope this helps.
 
I've had to burn the rustiest ones out with a cutting torch. Replacement bolts aren't easy to find. Good luck
 
So if I'm takiing out the k frame. I have it supported alll 4 bolts loosened, now I can lower it down correct? If I understand correctly I don't have to remove uca. I'm gonna try when I get home from work. Thanks for all you guys help.
 
You either need to get the UCA bolts out or take the UCA ball joint loose from the spindle.
 
Ok thanks guys I was on the right track then. I already took the torsion bars out. Thanks.
 
crackedback said:
You either need to get the UCA bolts out or take the UCA ball joint loose from the spindle.
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I find it much easier to unbolt the lower control arm, idler arm and steering box from the K-member and let all the suspension and steering gear hang from the car when swapping k-members.
 
dgc333 said:
I find it much easier to unbolt the lower control arm, idler arm and steering box from the K-member and let all the suspension and steering gear hang from the car when swapping k-members.
Click to expand...
Better get a coat hanger and tie the steering gear up to something or it will pull the box coupling apart.
 
Ok heres where I'm at. I got the steering column out already. Bought a bunch of books. I'm taking everything out to swap in a alterkation clip. Just tired of smashing my knuckles lol. I think the bushings have never been changed. Is there a special tool for removing the cam bolts? I'm gonna do some more digging around. Thanks for the help.
 
When I swapped the K-frame from underneath, I had a completely assembled steering gear*, control arms, and brakes on it along with the engine and transmission. Rolled it under the car, the lowered body down. Could not really tighten the upper ball joint until I had the uca attached to the car. The only special tool used was the socket for the upper ball joint.

When taking the old stuff out, the "cam bolts" on the uca came out after removing nuts, spritzing with gun cleaner (out of Kroil), and a couple of "love taps" with a three pound hammer.

*steering gear consisting of tie rods, idler arm, link arm, steering box with Pittman arm, & lower ball joints. Easier to install this way since engine had power steering pump installed.

Hope this helps
 
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