Hi everyone, I was reading a thread somewhere today in which someone stated that their 72 dart (which supposedly has a /6 from the factory) was actually a true V8 K member when they removed the engine. Now, I have looked at alot of engine swap threads from multiple forums and from what I can tell, you either have one or the other. To my knowledge (which is not a tall hill of beans) if your car came with a /6, you have a /6 K member and vis- versa. I am sure that I am going to have to change my mounts or K member to put a v8 in my car (which has not arrived on the transport vehicle yet). I just wanted to get the words from the gurus. I know it's probably a no brainer question, but I have to ask anyway. I would not think the factory would have made a universal motor mount for a /6 to V8.
V8 K Member Question-72 Dart
- Thread starter Cruzin
- Start date
-
Different. p/n 3583062 vs 3583064
If you grab a copy of the Direct Connection / Mopar performance Chassis Book it has a chapter on swaps with the full list of part numbers for K-frame, mounts, insulators and which years and bodies. Might even be on the internet somewhere in its original 'Tech Bulletin' format.
If you don't want to swap Ks, you can make your own spacer by making a heavy box out of angle iron. It's a bit of a pain in the xxs to install because theirs not much room to get bolts in. Bolt the spacer to the slant's mount, and then to the proper engine mount. That's for the small block.
Another option is to see what Schumacher (and others?) that make conversion kits offer.
If you grab a copy of the Direct Connection / Mopar performance Chassis Book it has a chapter on swaps with the full list of part numbers for K-frame, mounts, insulators and which years and bodies. Might even be on the internet somewhere in its original 'Tech Bulletin' format.
If you don't want to swap Ks, you can make your own spacer by making a heavy box out of angle iron. It's a bit of a pain in the xxs to install because theirs not much room to get bolts in. Bolt the spacer to the slant's mount, and then to the proper engine mount. That's for the small block.
Another option is to see what Schumacher (and others?) that make conversion kits offer.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
No such thing. If it had a slant, you either need to get a v8 K, "re" fabricate that one, or buy the aftermarket swap mounts.
Also, after just now this spring swapping to a newer K with spool mounts instead of pillow, I would not consider any other option for a street car with rubber mounts.
Part of this is because of the very poor quality of replacement Chineseo parts.
Also, after just now this spring swapping to a newer K with spool mounts instead of pillow, I would not consider any other option for a street car with rubber mounts.
Part of this is because of the very poor quality of replacement Chineseo parts.
No such thing. If it had a slant, you either need to get a v8 K, "re" fabricate that one, or buy the aftermarket swap mounts.
So your saying the schumacher mounts are not a fair option (even with the poly insulators)? I am not quite sure I under stand what a "spool" mount is. Sorry for the ignorance.
I am only putting a 318 in. Nothing radical. I have never modified a K frameor changed one for that matter. Any posts that you know of that expain how to do this right. I don't want make a butcher job out of putting a 318.
Thanks to all that have replied. I appreciate the help. I am a newbie here, so all the help I can get input I can get goes a long way. Thanks again for all the help.
So your saying the schumacher mounts are not a fair option (even with the poly insulators)? I am not quite sure I under stand what a "spool" mount is. Sorry for the ignorance.
I am only putting a 318 in. Nothing radical. I have never modified a K frameor changed one for that matter. Any posts that you know of that expain how to do this right. I don't want make a butcher job out of putting a 318.
Thanks to all that have replied. I appreciate the help. I am a newbie here, so all the help I can get input I can get goes a long way. Thanks again for all the help.
If a owner pulled a slant 6 and found a V8 K under it, someone besides the factory put it together. Putting a slant 6 on a V8 K might have been easier than visa-versa when guys were modding their own motor supports.
Today the aftermarket offers swap mounts to put a V8 on a slant 6 K but I doubt they offer mounts to put the slant on a V8 K
Today the aftermarket offers swap mounts to put a V8 on a slant 6 K but I doubt they offer mounts to put the slant on a V8 K
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You misunderstood. What I meant was, that I would not (myself) go to the trouble to "swap in" an early V8 K which uses the earlier "pillow" (flat rectangular) rubber mounts. These pull apart, and the current crop of import parts has not helped
Also, you can go to the Schumaker site and get info on the different K configurations
http://www.engine-swaps.com/
which is here
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/K-Frames.html
1--Might just be that since you seem to have a /6 K, your easiest/ cheapest option might be to buy aftermarket "swap" mounts
2--IF you can skillfully weld and fabricate, you might mod the K to a V8. Not something I want to do at my age
3--The poor quality of early "pillow" mounts is not a real issue for the hot street/ race minded who just use a metal mount on at least the driver side. Not something I want to do for a street car.
4--Spool mounts were improved design in ?73? and are so named because they are no longer a "pillow" mount, but a steel sleeved rubber bushing with a through bolt.
This is the later "spool mount" K
and these are the spool mounts. They use a long through bolt, so even if the rubber deteriorates, they cannot pull apart
Since a spacer is needed to mount the small block engines (like a 318 ) onto a slant 6 K frame, the reverse would require cutting and welding.
The spacer I made was simply two pieces of angle iron welded together and some holes drilled in it. I should still have the measurements. Heck, 90% sure I still have spacer. You can have any small welding shop or machine shop make one up if that's the route you want to go. Aligning the engine properly takes a little more patience and jockeying than with a correct v-8 mount because there's always a little doubt in the back of your mind.
The hard part of the swap is (in my opinion) all the little pieces that are needed. Throttle and kickdown linkage, return spring bracket and things like that. A few trips to a good junkyard will help if a donor vehicle is not a part of the project. It can be fun and a learning experience.
The older style rubber insulators are also called 'biscuits' by some. The ones I used to break regularly were trans mount and the drivers side. But that's with a slightly worked 340. 318 stock you should be OK. Breakage of insulators stopped by using the shumacher torque strap. Interlocked insulators are a good idea and there are at least two on the market now including Schumacher's. AMC's continued using that type of engine mounting eve through the Chrysler. I was pleased to see that the Anchor brand replacement bisquits (for my AMC engine) were made with a metal interlock which will keep the engine from jumping free even if the rubber fails.
All that's to say the bisquit issues all have solution, even though I agree the spool style mount is better idea.
The spacer I made was simply two pieces of angle iron welded together and some holes drilled in it. I should still have the measurements. Heck, 90% sure I still have spacer. You can have any small welding shop or machine shop make one up if that's the route you want to go. Aligning the engine properly takes a little more patience and jockeying than with a correct v-8 mount because there's always a little doubt in the back of your mind.
The hard part of the swap is (in my opinion) all the little pieces that are needed. Throttle and kickdown linkage, return spring bracket and things like that. A few trips to a good junkyard will help if a donor vehicle is not a part of the project. It can be fun and a learning experience.
The older style rubber insulators are also called 'biscuits' by some. The ones I used to break regularly were trans mount and the drivers side. But that's with a slightly worked 340. 318 stock you should be OK. Breakage of insulators stopped by using the shumacher torque strap. Interlocked insulators are a good idea and there are at least two on the market now including Schumacher's. AMC's continued using that type of engine mounting eve through the Chrysler. I was pleased to see that the Anchor brand replacement bisquits (for my AMC engine) were made with a metal interlock which will keep the engine from jumping free even if the rubber fails.
All that's to say the bisquit issues all have solution, even though I agree the spool style mount is better idea.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Took me about 6 months to break a brand new NAPA driver side mount. This is with a mild cam/ 4bbl/ TBI on an otherwise stock 318. These parts suppliers should hang their heads in shame.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
SHAME??? What's to be ashamed of? They got your money, and that's all they wanted anyway!
It just seems that no matter how cynical I get, I CAN"T KEEP UP!
BC
It just seems that no matter how cynical I get, I CAN"T KEEP UP!
BC
I appreciate the education and help from everyone. I just got my first ever dart delivered from washington yesterday. The car is solid as a rock. Found the build sheets under the front seat and under the original carpet. Going to be a nice project to work with. I saw a guy in my town the othe rdat who did the conversion kit change on his 71. He did have an engine brace on his car. He said if I stayed with a mild 318, it probably would be ok. He did say if I was going the hi-pro way, a different K or newly welded in mounts would be the way to go. Gotta love this site. It is so nice to have people with all the experience there to help. Thanks again everyone. I am sure I will be talking to some of you in the future as I move along with the work on the car.
-
