Valvoline 20w50 label issue???

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greenswinger

greenswinger

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Went to the parts house this morning to pick up some Valvoline VR1 for the Dart this morning. I'm running a Comp Mutha Thumpr flat tappet cam in the 360. I'm also not totally comfortable "supplementing" oil with pour in additives due to the unknown effects of the oils detergents and the additives. Unloading the bag of VR1 and Wix filter, I noticed a subtle label difference on one of the bottles. Since this is "racing oil" I didn't expect to see the API service "donut". One quart does have it denoting API service SM!!!! All the others are missing the donut as expected with a comment saying EXCEEDS API SERVICE SG/CD. I'm no oil expert but the SM designation spooked me enough to call Valvoline and ask a few questions. Spoke to a nice lady who put me on hold briefly to verify that the oil formula HASN'T changed. I find it strange that the verbiage on the label with the SM donut says : Ashless anti-wear and ZDDP provides ultimate wear protection. The label without the donut says: High-zinc formula also protects push-rod and flat tappet engines. Both labels have the same part number VV211. I told the rep that this could cause confusion with racers and hot rodders with flat tappet cams. Hopefully, they will address this. This is the 20w50 btw...


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You did the right by calling. They like to change hoping we won't read any of it!
 
yeah I don't wanna wipe a cam following blind faith in VR1 because "every one uses it". API SM won't protect our flat tappet cams.....It says exceeds SM but damn just say its good for flat tappet cams!!!! Is it that hard??? Almost all the drag and dirt cars around here use it. I've used Valvoline in all my cars since Ive been driving but frankly this pissed me off....
 
Hmm. I use the 10w-30 VR1 (unsure as to why you use 20w50)...this is interesting to me for sure.

I do have roller everything so I'm not so worried. The only sliding surface is the fuel pump eccentric.
 
Oil companies are terrible about changing the packaging oil comes in. We have three different containers of the same type oil on the same shelf at work right now, because the containers have been changed twice in the past 60 days. That's flippin stupid.

That said, the correct way to read oil weights.......or grades is to disregard the first viscosity number. So, 20W50 is actually a 50 weight oil.

Since 20W50 is 20 weight at ambient room temperature and changes to 50 weight at engine operating temperature, that's how I've always recommended people to decide which oil to run.

20 weight is actually a touch on the heavy side considering starting an engine that's completely cold and in cold weather. I would never recommend anything with a 20W number on a daily driven street car.

But that's JMO.
 
goldduster318 said:
Hmm. I use the 10w-30 VR1 (unsure as to why you use 20w50)...this is interesting to me for sure.

I do have roller everything so I'm not so worried. The only sliding surface is the fuel pump eccentric.
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set up is on the loose side (on purpose) and summer temps over 100 for weeks at a time. 90's in the summer is cool hahaha. 10w30 only gave me 20ish psi at 190deg @ 850 rpm. I know that is ok but I got paranoid. Motor is fresh and I wouldn't dare run 20w50 in the winter even here!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Oil companies are terrible about changing the packaging oil comes in. We have three different containers of the same type oil on the same shelf at work right now, because the containers have been changed twice in the past 60 days. That's flippin stupid.

That said, the correct way to read oil weights.......or grades is to disregard the first viscosity number. So, 20W50 is actually a 50 weight oil.

Since 20W50 is 20 weight at ambient room temperature and changes to 50 weight at engine operating temperature, that's how I've always recommended people to decide which oil to run.

20 weight is actually a touch on the heavy side considering starting an engine that's completely cold and in cold weather. I would never recommend anything with a 20W number on a daily driven street car.

But that's JMO.
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We only run 20wXX in summer up here, in winter we go to 10wXX...
 
I know this is off subject I just see that you guys are online right now . I just got engine & tranny installed ,I can't shift out of or into park while engine is running. If I start it in neutral I have all gears .shut the car off goes right into park .? B&M star shifter, is it just out of adjustment? Or something to do with neutral safety switch? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Well runnin one LOOSE makes things different. That's when you want a heavier oil. But normally, a 50w is too heavy.

I hear the words of Don Garlits in my head. "Run it loose with LOTS of oil pressure" LOL
 
Dart Swinger 72 said:
I know this is off subject I just see that you guys are online right now . I just got engine & tranny installed ,I can't shift out of or into park while engine is running. If I start it in neutral I have all gears .shut the car off goes right into park .? B&M star shifter, is it just out of adjustment? Or something to do with neutral safety switch? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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It would be better to start a separate thread, rather than introduce a completely different subject here. We will respond.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well runnin one LOOSE makes things different. That's when you want a heavier oil. But normally, a 50w is too heavy.

I hear the words of Don Garlits in my head. "Run it loose with LOTS of oil pressure" LOL
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AMEN!!!! A lot of Dick Landy articles flow through my brain as well!:cheers:
 
Dart Swinger 72 said:
I know this is off subject I just see that you guys are online right now . I just got engine & tranny installed ,I can't shift out of or into park while engine is running. If I start it in neutral I have all gears .shut the car off goes right into park .? B&M star shifter, is it just out of adjustment? Or something to do with neutral safety switch? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Start a new thread
 
I run Lucas "Hot Rod" 10-30 high zinc in my 69 360 Dart Hyd. flat top cam. with no issues. Jegs sells it for 30.99 a 5qt container.
 
Napa usually has the 10w30 VR1 or can order it. I don't know why autozone, advance and the rest of them only stock 20w50 or straight 50.
 
My local Bumper to Bumper carries VR in 30,40, 50 and 20w50. They will get 10w30 im sure if asked.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I run Lucas "Hot Rod" 10-30 high zinc in my 69 360 Dart Hyd. flat top cam. with no issues. Jegs sells it for 30.99 a 5qt container.
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I run the same thing in my truck. It works good.

People over think things WAY too much. All that engine cares about is that the dipstick reads full.

Of course the zinc helps for flat tappets.
 
Where does it say HOW MUCH zinc? At least the Lucas brand tells you how much. It has 2400 PPM.
 
1400zinc PPM 1300 PH 2400 is high , to high , much higher than any old oil b
 
I hardly think it's "too high". Lucas has been around a long time making quality products. I think they know what they're doing. I'm stickin with it.
 
If you're really concerned because of a certain flat tappet cam combo the only oils to use now are the Gibbs or Penn oils that are racing deals. Break them in on that, and then switch to a racing synthetic after a couple thousand miles. Nothing with an API star has what the more aggressive cams need.
 
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