water pump/fan time relay

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Charrlie_S

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I posted this over on slant six dot org
AS most of you that know me, I am a "motor mouth". I have a tendancy to leave my race car with the fan and water pump running, and go off BSing. I then have a low or dead battery.

I Just installed a solid state time delay relay, for the fan and WP. Turn the switch on and the units run, turn the swith off, and they shut off. Turn the switch on and forget to turn it off, and they shut off automatikly after a delay of (setable) 10 sec to 15 minutes.

http://www.airotronics.com/site/product-intervalon_TBL.php

These were a special order configuration, and took about 6 weeks to get.
If there is enough interest, I could see about a "group buy". I bought four of them at $45 each tax and shipping included. Depending on order size, I might be able get a better price.
Click to expand...

I did get a better quantity price, of about $35.00 plus shipping to you, if I order more then 10 units. If any one is interested send me a PM.
Here is the link to the original thread.
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58314
 
Used to have mine hooked up to a temp. controlled switch, mounted in the manifold. After a run would cool the motor to 120* then shut everything off.
 
I had Sho Gun industries Tik Toc timer on my Mirada. Would alternate the fan and water pump. Worked great.....but they went under years ago. On the Duster I have the fan and waterpump wired into and extension cord and I plug that into a deep cycle battery I always carry along with me. can let it run till dead and it won't kill the cars battery.
 
3402 said:
Used to have mine hooked up to a temp. controlled switch, mounted in the manifold. After a run would cool the motor to 120* then shut everything off.
Click to expand...

And there ya go. :D
I really like mine set up like this, because the fan comes on at 210 and shuts off at 190 on it's own key and/or engine on or off.
 
I like to keep my electrical system idiot proof. In my early days, I had too many issues with dead/low batteries. I now run a marine battery, 100 amp alternator, with a full throttle field cutout. Any electrical that can be on with the ign off is now turned off without my doing anything. My nitrous heater is controlled by a pressure switch.
 
It is just a throttle actuated micro switch, mounted on the carb. When I go to full throttle, it actuates two relays. One relay opens the field circuit to the alternator, and the other relay turns on the nitrous.
 
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