well, my bike is undamaged...

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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...but the duster wasn't so lucky


I knocked my dirtbike over and it clipped the rear passengerside fender well of Ginger



it looks like there was a little bit of bondo under the paint that got knocked lose

so, how do I fix this?
I wasn't planning on repainting the car, but if I do, it will be EL5 instead of EV2 so if I can "fix" this without spending a ton of money on bodywork without making it look like a backyard job...what would the way be?


regular bondo, primer and paint?
 
deeeamn - that bites - not being a body guy I can't help with the fix - but I feel for ya! that's a wound..
 
diymirage said:
...but the duster wasn't so lucky


I knocked my dirtbike over and it clipped the rear passengerside fender well of Ginger



it looks like there was a little bit of bondo under the paint that got knocked lose

so, how do I fix this?
I wasn't planning on repainting the car, but if I do, it will be EL5 instead of EV2 so if I can "fix" this without spending a ton of money on bodywork without making it look like a backyard job...what would the way be?


regular bondo, primer and paint?
Click to expand...

REAL body guy would be the one for info, and i'm NOT a REAL body guy, just a diy guy. you can take the car to a real body paint store and they can computer match your paint, yes it will have faded some with time. easy repair is take filler and repair the filler that went away from the disaster. you can even get a 2 part epoxy in a can to seal with ( never used it myself). touch up the bad spot. supposed bc/cc is easy to fix. is that what is on there?? I don't use the stuff.

bodyman might tell you to make it correct repaint that entire panel. depends on how particular you are.

in response to OP yes the paint tutorial is very good! ask 3 different body men and you will get some difference of opinion, no doubt, but I figure no one will go wrong with the info in that tutorial!

I even know some good shops that feel placing filler over clean bare metal is great. I epoxy prime before the filler. some shops never use anything to "clean" the bare metal. I use phosphoric acid product where there is pitting in the metal. BU you can have problems with epoxy over that. depends if acid base epoxy or not i'm told.

I love learning about bodywork, even though i'm old and woreout and somewhat allergic to paints and chemicals.
 
If that were my car and I had some future plans for maybe a new fender instead of that one I would fill it, sand it, primer it, sand it and spray it with something close until it got replaced.
You accidentally found bondo on that one for a reason, right?

How's the bike? :D

Oh I see, Undamaged.
Cool
 
TrailBeast said:
If that were my car and I had some future plans for maybe a new fender instead of that one I would fill it, sand it, primer it, sand it and spray it with something close until it got replaced.
You accidentally found bondo on that one for a reason, right?

How's the bike? :D

Oh I see, Undamaged.
Cool
Click to expand...

when I went out to look at the car, before I bought it, I brought a fridge magnet and put it on all the known problem areas, including that arch of the fender

not sure if I brought too strong a magnet, or if there is only a skim coat of bondo on there


I have no plans to replace that fender, but I would like to get the car repainted a different colour, though that is WAY at the bottom of the list, so I would like to patch it in a manner that keep it from looking like a work in progress





what does every one suggest for a body filler?
 
diymirage said:
when I went out to look at the car, before I bought it, I brought a fridge magnet and put it on all the known problem areas, including that arch of the fender

not sure if I brought too strong a magnet, or if there is only a skim coat of bondo on there


I have no plans to replace that fender, but I would like to get the car repainted a different colour, though that is WAY at the bottom of the list, so I would like to patch it in a manner that keep it from looking like a work in progress


what does every one suggest for a body filler?
Click to expand...

I use bondo gold, but I would probably have to agree about taking it to someone.
It's pretty easy to fill and sand, but the paint is the hard part when doing a patch that looks decent.
 
I suggest you feather the area out with 80-180 grit clean it thoroughly after. Skim coat of any good filler evercoat lightweight or zgrip. Block the filler with 180-220. finish it out with a 320. scuff the area around it and spot prime. let the primer cure then sand the fender for a repaint. With bc/cc you can blend the color and clear the whole fender.
 
lenky1 said:
I suggest you feather the area out with 80-180 grit clean it thoroughly after. Skim coat of any good filler evercoat lightweight or zgrip. Block the filler with 180-220. finish it out with a 320. scuff the area around it and spot prime. let the primer cure then sand the fender for a repaint. With bc/cc you can blend the color and clear the whole fender.
Click to expand...

thanks, ill see if I can get those fillers here

what does bc/cc mean?
 
bc/cc stands for basecoat clearcoat if you have questions feel free to pm me. As a bodyman I enjoy helping people learn to do there own work. It gives you a sense of pride and accomplishment when someone asks who did your bodywork and you can say I did!
 
thanks

I may have to take you up on that offer
I'm sure I will come up with plenty more questions as I dig into this
 
Is it a solid, metallic or pearl
Bc/cc is a basecoat is applied, usually 3 or 4 coats then a clearcoat is applied, usually 3 or 4 coats. Most if not all of your metallics or pearls are bc/cc. Solid colors can be either bc/cc or single stage, single stage the color and the clear is all one, a good body guy and painter could blend that quarter, if its a custom color there is almost a impossible chance to match it unless you use a paint camera and try to match it with an existing paint code, better if you know the paint code that was used wjen painted that way its easier to know what was used. It needs sanded back with 180 paper, refill it with usc duraglass, sand with 180, light coat of bondo brand body filler, sand with 320, prime 2 or 3 coats with a urethane primer, sand with 320 then 500 then paint. Color Sand with 1000 then 1500 and if you want 2000 then buff. A good body guy/painter should be able to keep that spot no bigger than about a 10" or 12" dia unless there is a major underlying problem
 
71DodgeDemon340 said:
Is it a solid, metallic or pearl
Click to expand...

it is a metallic paint
I have no idea what to code is, I'm guessing maybe EV2, since that was a mopar color, but the car was originally green and was painted this color before I ever paid eyes on it
 
Honestly that is a couple of hundred dollar dent take it to a shop
 
diymirage said:
it is a metallic paint
I have no idea what to code is, I'm guessing maybe EV2, since that was a mopar color, but the car was originally green and was painted this color before I ever paid eyes on it
Click to expand...

If your not 100% sure if its a mopar color id take it to a reputable body shop and they will take a camera shot of it and match it.
Do you know what brand paint it is? Ppg? Diamont? Glasurit? Sickens? House of kolor?
 
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmzsWxPLIOo"]I Know Nothing - YouTube[/ame]


not a clue about the paint

I bought the car from a guy who bought it from someone in Detroit who brought it over from Canada, but the fender tag shows it is a US market car, so it could have been painted anywhere


if I put some body filler on it, how long should I let it dry before I can drive the car?
 
If you want to put sometimg on it temporarily id only use usc duraglass, unlike bondo the duraglass is waterproof and you can drive it until you decide to fix it.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/USC-Duraglas-Fiberglass-Body-Filler-Quart-24035-/140808468776

Sand spot back about 4 inches in all directions with 180 or 220, youll need to take the chipped area all the way down to bare metal and feather it out, then following the body put a swipe of the duraglass on the quarter and the wheel well lip and it will probably be fully cured within a hour, it will stay water proof until sanded, if possible i would get it fixed asap and be done
 
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