wet sand single stage acrylic urethane

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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I got some dust on it on places and not real pleased with my total results. I have never sanded this before. what will I end up with wet sanding? somewhere between 1000 and 2000 grit??? will it require a buff?
 
barbee6043 said:
I got some dust on it on places and not real pleased with my total results. I have never sanded this before. what will I end up with wet sanding? somewhere between 1000 and 2000 grit??? will it require a buff?
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Let it harden a month before anything.
It'll smear on ya if ya don't wait for it to polymerize.
 
Definitely let it cure a while. Depending on how much you need to take out 1000 to 1500 and then buff with compound. If you have some runs to take out a razor blade is good and then a little 800. As soon as it get close to flush switch to the finer paper.
 
Depending on size of dust, 1500 aint doin nothin, hopefully solid color than you got a chance.
 
definitely you want to let the paint dry 30 days or so, that lets the paint gas off while the paint is hardening. Go through the different grades of sandpaper while wet sanding and use a lot of water while wet sanding. I would cover sharp edges with masking tape, it does not take to much to burn through paint and especially the edges when buffing out the surface with a electric buffer. Good luck
 
i forgot to mention it is a non metallic, I understand those don't take a wet sand. just that plain old beige! old school! I figure the foam buff is the current tech???? I rather take an *** whupping by a really big mean dude than buff! I will give it a month and see what happens. only one tiny run though. thanks for the input.
 
d1970 said:
definitely you want to let the paint dry 30 days or so, that lets the paint gas off while the paint is hardening. Go through the different grades of sandpaper while wet sanding and use a lot of water while wet sanding. I would cover sharp edges with masking tape, it does not take to much to burn through paint and especially the edges when buffing out the surface with a electric buffer. Good luck
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Correct,and old school common sense....
 
I havn't buffed anything since bout '90. I did a TA in bcc/cc. back then, ( first and last for bc/cc!) I don't care for that "modern" look. you are so right about protecting those edges!!! ha I assume now days people buff with a foam pad not the old sheep ?????

I tried to add pics but as usual, a dismal failure! ha
 
So... Barbie, where do you think you went wrong with your "paint job"? Wrong Environment? Poor Prep? Faulty Equipment? Operator Error? Act of God?

I've said this to all the spray painters I've trained over the many years I was involved in OEM paint application. "All miscues are learning experiences and we should take the opportunity to learn and correct those mistakes so it doesn't happen on a future project."

I suggest you put your paint job outside so the sun helps with the curing process. 1 k paints are the slowest at curing because they rely on atmosphere to affect the curing process.

A proper "cut and buff" takes more than just a quick read in a magazine so I suggest practicing on a test panel before you make a bigger mess. Masking all you edges works for reducing "burn through".

Good luck with your project.
 
sscuda said:
So... Barbie, where do you think you went wrong with your "paint job"? Wrong Environment? Poor Prep? Faulty Equipment? Operator Error? Act of God?

I've said this to all the spray painters I've trained over the many years I was involved in OEM paint application. "All miscues are learning experiences and we should take the opportunity to learn and correct those mistakes so it doesn't happen on a future project."

I suggest you put your paint job outside so the sun helps with the curing process. 1 k paints are the slowest at curing because they rely on atmosphere to affect the curing process.

A proper "cut and buff" takes more than just a quick read in a magazine so I suggest practicing on a test panel before you make a bigger mess. Masking all you edges works for reducing "burn through".

Good luck with your project.
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I admit to being old, old fashioned, and retired poor. my goal is always ia to make a driver, I do the patch panel deal, epoxy primer, filler, urethane sanding primer. seal with epoxy with reducer, and final coats with acrylic urethane. etc. I don't care for the ultra shiny bc/cc. never have.

I admit I will get wore out sanding, blocking, and will have a few small dings I missed, or a sand scratch I missed. also the rear qtr panels for 66-7 belvederes are not stamped 100% correct with perfect body lines! but if I d rive it, it will get a door ding, rock chip etc.. soooooo..... I admit IF I had just one car, I might be tempted to send it to "someone" with a booth and actually pay for the final seal and coats.

I have some dust in a few spots. not everywhere. turned out pretty decent being not shot in booth with GOOD light! I admit I am not one of those people that will spend half their life getting a car painted and a ctually driving down the road. no one ever called me a perfectionist and "anal retentive"! ha

main problem is I have to paint in shed. dirt floor. I hosed it good so I did not get dust in paint from that....but a little from the paper masking off the glass. I blew it all off good before spraying, but you know how that goes!.. NO I will not take out the glass for my driver! ha been there done it! ha

another problem is my compressor ( it is a twin cyl with a 80 gal tank, it is rebuilt and also wore out some no doubt. it has hard time staying with me. no doubt it would help to have totally constant air supply.

I always welcome advice as I enjoy learning. I have painted 10-12 cars over the years. some were perfect back before I got old and wore out, had better place to shoot, better compressor.

I will go out side tomorrow for the sun bake. I have been waiting for the thunder bumpers to leave.

I really hate to even think about buffing! the old buffer I have I found at work and it must weight 50 pounds and be 50 yrs old! my old buffer came from Sears years ago and I tossed it in the trash years ago too! ( screw Sears) ha
 
The car hobby was a blast and it helped me find a career that was beyond my expectations. I hear you about being worn out. When my current project is complete I'm hanging up my stuff. I'm done. It's all I can do to keep up with everything else that needs attention around me plus I still have some old clients that don't seem to understand the word "no". I have so many frequent flyer miles I won't ever use them all. Don't get me wrong, I'm still physically fit, just way too many other things I'd rather be doing that are a lot cleaner and whole lot more enjoyable. We got grandkids coming so I'm looking forward to that chapter of my life.

My advice: Never stop learning even if the experience isn't a good one. You learned from this experience and will take what you learned to your next project and make it that much better.

As far as buffers go, they are getting lighter and cheaper. My current 7" buffer weighs about 4 lbs. and cost approx. $59.00 I've polished quite a few cars with it and it seems to be hanging in there. I remember the old Chicago Pneumatic buffers back in the 60's -70's that weighed way too much and tore your arm off when they got caught up in something.

Yes, sitting out in the sun will help the curing process but don't expect miracles. 2K paints are a much better way to go for repainting or buffing.

Again, good luck with your project.
 
I call it single stage, I guess it is 2k single stage, acrylic urethane , hardner, some reducer.... I will ask this to re affirm my thinking, and maybe help other DIY too . with this system, the reducer will, basically, give it the shine? a slow reducer will shine, wet look, give more than a faster reducer? what I go by. wrong? the temp was pretty w arm anyway when I shot 85. I used the fast reducer.
I ask sscuda, where di d you get that $59 light weight buffer? HF? the buffer I have a pretty heavy, for an old wore out guy!
 
barbee6043 said:
I call it single stage, I guess it is 2k single stage, acrylic urethane , hardner, some reducer.... I will ask this to re affirm my thinking, and maybe help other DIY too . with this system, the reducer will, basically, give it the shine? a slow reducer will shine, wet look, give more than a faster reducer? what I go by. wrong? the temp was pretty w arm anyway when I shot 85. I used the fast reducer.
I ask sscuda, where di d you get that $59 light weight buffer? HF? the buffer I have a pretty heavy, for an old wore out guy!
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or I should sa y i used the high temp slow reducer.
 
Both these cars I painted in the last few years with single stage poly and painted outside under a car port in the evening with tarps put up and the cement wet down. After a month of letting them cure with several of those days in summer sun I wet sanded and buffed them. Any bad areas I would hit with 400 until the peel got shallow and then go to 800 and then 1000 or 1500. Then I would use 3M medium compound and if it swirled I would hit with Finesse. I used the cheap variable speed HF buffer that they put on sale for $29 now and then. First I used a cloth pad cleaning it regularly with a wire brush, then I switched to a foam pad with good results as well..... Still not perfect but great driver grade....
i38325-jpg.1714918940

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Buffing is an art upon itself and go easy before going heavy. It is easy to burn paint with too much speed or pressure! Keep water handy and use it with the compound.
 
You guys should get on u tube.There are tons of demo's on wet sanding and buffing.I was pretty worried before i did mine because everybody warned me about "burning through"
I found a video where a guy did some demos.He held the buffer in one spot for 15 sec then 30 sec. then 45 seconds and finally a full minute,using medium compound.
The results showed that after one full minute he still hadn't burnt completely through the clear coat!
Any way..be careful just the same.Go to your local body shop get an old door or hood and have at it.
Take special care on edges or cover them as already mentioned.In hind sight,the 5 guys that warned me had never wet sanded or buffed a car.
Be warned,it is a big job.
 
ir3333 said:
You guys should get on u tube.There are tons of demo's on wet sanding and buffing.I was pretty worried before i did mine because everybody warned me about "burning through"
I found a video where a guy did some demos.He held the buffer in one spot for 15 sec then 30 sec. then 45 seconds and finally a full minute,using medium compound.
The results showed that after one full minute he still hadn't burnt completely through the clear coat!
Any way..be careful just the same.Go to your local body shop get an old door or hood and have at it.
Take special care on edges or cover them as already mentioned.In hind sight,the 5 guys that warned me had never wet sanded or buffed a car.
Be warned,it is a big job.
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Clear coat base coat VS. single stage polyurethane are different animals and the color coat is easier to discolor in way less time! The main thing is to keep moving and if you have to experiment do it in a spot that is less likely to be seen!
 
ir3333 said:
is clear coat urethane?
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clear coat is a urethane. but like said, different animal sanding/buffing clear than a color urethane.
one thing about it, I can always shoot it again, if I need to. I will have a concrete floor by next fall! still not a spray booth, but I can at least control the air flow in there. if I could keep every bug off too it would be a plus!!! ha....... all I really want is rust repaired, decently straight, sealed good where it doesn't want to rust, and reasonable quality driver finish....!and run like STINK! not a show car, thats just me...
 
sscuda said:
Barbee,

I got mine about 7-8 years ago at Princess Auto in Canada. Harbor Freight carries similar buffers.
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Avoid the"WEN" brand buffers,if they still exist..( two hours,of mile 1800-2400 r.p.m.'s..Sent both ,on fire.. Simply ..lit... on... fire.. Garbage.. Buy a good buffer,It's worth it..
 
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