scampy72
Well-Known Member
hey guys trying to finish a stereo install and i just need to know what color wire is the constant? is it pink or yellow or??
thanks
marc
thanks
marc
what color wire?
- Thread starter scampy72
- Start date
-
AdamR
Big Member
yellow
scampy72
Well-Known Member
ok, heres one more, there are two pink wires that go into my map light, which goes on when the car is off, will one of those work as well? if not which yellow wire should i be looking for? BTW its a 72 scamp if that matters
AdamR
Big Member
You need to buy a test light. There should be some extra spots on the back of the fuse box you can run a wire to also.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
yep
scampy72
Well-Known Member
i have a multi meter, will that work?
scampy72
Well-Known Member
also how do i check with it again, its been years since ive used one.
scampy72
Well-Known Member
bump
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
What model/ brand is your multimeter? Usually, you can download a user manual if it isn't too "Chineseo."
Either look for something like "DC volts" or if they are using the incredibly useless and irritating "modern symbols", a sine wave is AC volts, and a straight line is DC volts
On the meter in the photo below, the knob is pointing to the 200V DC range. This means you can measure up to 200V DC. For 12V/ auto use, you'd want one click to the left, 20V. Actually, it WOULD show 12V on the 200V scale, just not as accurate.
Notice that left of top center it says V (voltage) with a straight line. Notice to the RIGHT of center it says V with a "wavy" line, a sine wave symbol. This is the AC volt scales
The little box further to the right and down is A (current, or amperage). The scales are 2000 microamps, 20 milliamps, 200 milliamps, and 10 amps
Further down past "temp" is the little arrow, which is a diode symbol, for diode testing
Around the bottom, continuing clockwise, the "omega" symbol is ohms, or resistance. For most auto testing on low resistances, you'd want 200 (ohms) full scale
Also, you seem to have a 72? You can handily download a 72 (Plymouth) shop manual fer free right here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
der linkydoo:
[ame="http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf"]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Mis...Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]
The fuse panel, from page 8-150, 8-151 of the manual:
This is exactly what you'd see looking at the rear of the panel. ABC are hot only with the key in "run" or "accessory". D and E are hot at all times You can see that "D" feeds the dome lamp and emergency flasher, and E feeds the lighter and tail lamps. I'd pull off of "D" or else put a connector on the top buss and use a separate inline fuse holder.
"F" is a special fuse only for dimmer controlled cluster/ instrument lamps.
Either look for something like "DC volts" or if they are using the incredibly useless and irritating "modern symbols", a sine wave is AC volts, and a straight line is DC volts
On the meter in the photo below, the knob is pointing to the 200V DC range. This means you can measure up to 200V DC. For 12V/ auto use, you'd want one click to the left, 20V. Actually, it WOULD show 12V on the 200V scale, just not as accurate.
Notice that left of top center it says V (voltage) with a straight line. Notice to the RIGHT of center it says V with a "wavy" line, a sine wave symbol. This is the AC volt scales
The little box further to the right and down is A (current, or amperage). The scales are 2000 microamps, 20 milliamps, 200 milliamps, and 10 amps
Further down past "temp" is the little arrow, which is a diode symbol, for diode testing
Around the bottom, continuing clockwise, the "omega" symbol is ohms, or resistance. For most auto testing on low resistances, you'd want 200 (ohms) full scale
Also, you seem to have a 72? You can handily download a 72 (Plymouth) shop manual fer free right here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
der linkydoo:
[ame="http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf"]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Mis...Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]
The fuse panel, from page 8-150, 8-151 of the manual:
This is exactly what you'd see looking at the rear of the panel. ABC are hot only with the key in "run" or "accessory". D and E are hot at all times You can see that "D" feeds the dome lamp and emergency flasher, and E feeds the lighter and tail lamps. I'd pull off of "D" or else put a connector on the top buss and use a separate inline fuse holder.
"F" is a special fuse only for dimmer controlled cluster/ instrument lamps.
Lots of wires from the wiper switch to the left so lets dont go there.
Your factory harnes supplied red and orange at the radio. Red is radio power at ign switch on. Orange is illumination via the head light switch dimmer.
When the dash harness gets right of the wiper switch it gets a lot less complicated.
Remove the tape wrap near the ashtray and you should find 1 small gauge yellow wire. That the dome lamp circuit, hot at all times, going to the door jamb switch. Perfect for your stereo memory. A wire tap some call a scotch lock will do there.
Your factory harnes supplied red and orange at the radio. Red is radio power at ign switch on. Orange is illumination via the head light switch dimmer.
When the dash harness gets right of the wiper switch it gets a lot less complicated.
Remove the tape wrap near the ashtray and you should find 1 small gauge yellow wire. That the dome lamp circuit, hot at all times, going to the door jamb switch. Perfect for your stereo memory. A wire tap some call a scotch lock will do there.
scampy72
Well-Known Member
ok thanks ill give it a go! wish me luck, ill keep y'all posted.
scampy72
Well-Known Member
forgot to ask, can the multimemter read through the insulation on the wires?
scampy72
Well-Known Member
ok guys, i used my multimeter and checked all the yellow and pink wires, with the battery connected, and none of them came up 12V, am i doing something wrong? BTW i checked everywhere i could where there was no insulation. HELP!! this is the last wire i need to connect the stereo.
scampy72
Well-Known Member
bump
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Well I don't know what you are doing, nor do I know what sort of meter you have, or what range you have it on. Can you get it to read by hooking direct to battery?
How about the model of your meter and or a photo of it?
What yellow and pink are you talking about, IE where are you checking these? YELLOW is normally the cold side of the dome light switch, and not to be used for a supply line
Did you get into the rear of the fuse panel?
How about the model of your meter and or a photo of it?
What yellow and pink are you talking about, IE where are you checking these? YELLOW is normally the cold side of the dome light switch, and not to be used for a supply line
Did you get into the rear of the fuse panel?
If there is a working bulb in the dome lamp fixture the yellow wire is hot at all times all the way to the door jamb switches.
Yes it is the ground side of that circuit but supplying the head unit memory doesn't provide enough current / ground path to light the bulb.
Its my choice simply because its close to where my need is, its fused, its possible fault or failure is of no consequence to other accesories.
Thou shalt not feck with the brake lamp circuit, thats the only rule that applies.
I dont have anything more to offer. Good luck with it.
Yes it is the ground side of that circuit but supplying the head unit memory doesn't provide enough current / ground path to light the bulb.
Its my choice simply because its close to where my need is, its fused, its possible fault or failure is of no consequence to other accesories.
Thou shalt not feck with the brake lamp circuit, thats the only rule that applies.
I dont have anything more to offer. Good luck with it.
scampy72
Well-Known Member
ok guys lets not try and start an argument here please. as for your questions....
a)its a meter from harbor freight, first time im using it, it is one of the ones that you get free when you buy x amount worth of crap....
b) i have tried it set on both 20 and 200 DCV
c) the wires i am check are under the dash, both pass by the ash tray/ where the origional radoi went right in the middle of the dash, this is where the new unit is going.
i checked the pink wire that runs to the map light, again turns on when the door is open, i disconnected the plug and checked in there. got a reading of like 3.xx
i was going to just use that and hope it works lol, i figure if not i can always just put it back to the way it is now.
there is no working bulb in the dome lamp at the moment, but there is one in the map light which is how i know it turns on with the doors open.
also, there are actually two pink wires that go into that plug as wellas a brownish one, i figure the brownish might be a ground or something?
i was about to go try and chase both wire, ill let you know if i find anything/ get it working.
a)its a meter from harbor freight, first time im using it, it is one of the ones that you get free when you buy x amount worth of crap....
b) i have tried it set on both 20 and 200 DCV
c) the wires i am check are under the dash, both pass by the ash tray/ where the origional radoi went right in the middle of the dash, this is where the new unit is going.
i checked the pink wire that runs to the map light, again turns on when the door is open, i disconnected the plug and checked in there. got a reading of like 3.xx
i was going to just use that and hope it works lol, i figure if not i can always just put it back to the way it is now.
there is no working bulb in the dome lamp at the moment, but there is one in the map light which is how i know it turns on with the doors open.
also, there are actually two pink wires that go into that plug as wellas a brownish one, i figure the brownish might be a ground or something?
i was about to go try and chase both wire, ill let you know if i find anything/ get it working.
-
