What have I done(or failed to do)now?

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Maccoy

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Oak Harbor, WA
Decided to do a header swap over the winter, as my Hookers were pretty smashed up. So pulled all that out and ordered some TTI's. Since all that was out of the way, I decided it was a perfect time to pull the pan and change a leaking rear main. Done, all buttoned up, new headers installed, new exhaust, ready to fire up. Zero oil pressure. Pulled distributor to use my primer tool, but can't budge the drive gear. Usually comes right out with a magnet. I know I'm probably going to have to pull the pan again to figure out what I did wrong, but I don't think it's coming off very easily without removing the headers again. UGH!! Any ideas out there as to what I may have done wrong. I made sure the oil pump engaged the shaft when I reinstalled it. All I want to do is drive my Mopar around again. This is a real setback.
 
You took the pump out to replace the rear main seal. Did you install the pump correctly? Not to judge your competence, but did the oil pump seat before you bolted and torqued the pump down? Turn your motor as you lift up on the drive gear with some sort of tool, it may just be very tight in the bushing or worse, bent at the bottom. No oil pressure almost sounds like the shaft broke if all you did was change mains and mount the pump. I believe you can remove TTI's with no pan removal, that would be best then you could remove the pump and tap the drive out to inspect.
 
Sounds like you may have put the oil pump,drive gear in a bind.So you did start the engine?If so and it didn't have pressure then you most likely damaged the gear or the pump.
 
I can't offer much help but this is a old skool FABO member so lets help him out........:glasses7:
 
You need to drop the pan and see what's binding... It's the oil pump either not in right, or cocked. Something's grabbing that shaft and since you disturbed the oil pump - look there.
 
You make sure your oil pressure gauge is connected, working, sending unit good? I know it's a long shot, but..... good luck tracking the problem down.

Pat
 
Divenut said:
You make sure your oil pressure gauge is connected, working, sending unit good? I know it's a long shot, but..... good luck tracking the problem down.

Pat
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he mentioned pulling the distributor and trying to use a priming rod to spin the oil pump and it was not moving
I think that's where he should look
 
sadly you are correct about what you have to do - those TTi's are SO in the way of the oil pan - it is possible to loosen them and get the oil pan off, but it is one serious PITA!! And going back on is worse.. As much as it surely feels like you're going backwards - save yourself the headache of trying to do an oil pan gasket install "upside down" (ask me how I know).. pull the engine, depending on what is wrong in there, you may have to anyway
Maccoy said:
Decided to do a header swap over the winter, as my Hookers were pretty smashed up. So pulled all that out and ordered some TTI's. Since all that was out of the way, I decided it was a perfect time to pull the pan and change a leaking rear main. Done, all buttoned up, new headers installed, new exhaust, ready to fire up. Zero oil pressure. Pulled distributor to use my primer tool, but can't budge the drive gear. Usually comes right out with a magnet. I know I'm probably going to have to pull the pan again to figure out what I did wrong, but I don't think it's coming off very easily without removing the headers again. UGH!! Any ideas out there as to what I may have done wrong. I made sure the oil pump engaged the shaft when I reinstalled it. All I want to do is drive my Mopar around again. This is a real setback.
Click to expand...
 
Over time that drive rod develops varnish on the shaft below the bushing. This varnish prevents the assembly from coming up.I have never seen a magnet powerful enough to pull it up. You recall that,that assy has to be turned as it rises, cuz it has to climb out of engagement with the cam-gear. What usually works for me is a long,square-shanked screwdriver and a wrench. Snap-On has one with a hex-drive at the top of the shank,right under the handle.(very handy for this).Then I just "unscrew" the thing.When it disengages from the cam,it usually can be picked up with a Snapring pliers. Occasionally, I have had to use a long-shanked cotterpin-puller,hooked underneath, and lots of up and down action to work the varnish off underneath it.
I have seen the hex-receiver in the oilpump cracked. I suppose if the pump cocked during re-installation,it could have broken it, in which case the pan would have to come off,anyway; and I don't think you would be able to see that from looking down the hole from the top.
I suppose it's also possible that the rear cap hung up on the index and never really got seated,right? The result of that would be Zero oil pressure and a jammed-up oil-pump drive. It would also have made oil-pan installation a bear. I have never seen this situation, and don't even know if it is possible, but Food for thought, I guess.....
 
had oil pressure, remove pump to fix rear main seal, have no oil pressure now......

Pump is not installed properly, binding on the drive shaft/gear and has probably broken the pump at that spot. if not you have no oil pressure because the pump is not setting flat causing it to pull air.

The only solution i see is pulling the pan.

I tell you this, as i have done it myself before:violent1:
 
I have inserted a loop of wire in the dist hole, worked it around the drive gear, then a long screwdriver to turn the gear to get it started up whlie pulling ip on the wire. That will at least tell you if you broke your driveshaft and if not try the priming shaft and continue investigating. .
 
If the pump was mounted in a bind and not tightened down surface to surface removing the gear may relieve the bind and cause the pump to be loose.If that makes sence.
 
Finally got the oilpan (Milodon deep sump) off. Will not come out with TTI's installed. Had to completely remove passenger side tubes, and remove all bolts from driver side and let it drop down. What a pain. Found oil pump properly installed, but hex drive was cracked to where the drive shaft just rotated in it. New oil pump. Obviously bound up at least temporarily. Now to install a new pump, and make sure Ive got good pressure before I reinstall those tubes. UGH! Thanks for all the replies, they are appreciated. This site really is a Godsend for us people that think we know it all, because we drive the best!!
 
yep - kinda what I was trying to say earlier.. damn near more work than it's worth.. fair warning: putting that oil pan gasket back on there is going to SUCK out loud... I tried it - once. The clearance at the back is SO close that you are highly unlikely to get it to seat.. also, as you move from one end to the other - the end you started with will fall down.. I will be very interested to know if you get it on there and it doesn't leak... you are over 70% of the way through taking the engine out.. I know it sucks to undo everything but I ain't whistling Dixie here -- I have honestly been there, done that.
Maccoy said:
Finally got the oilpan (Milodon deep sump) off. Will not come out with TTI's installed. Had to completely remove passenger side tubes, and remove all bolts from driver side and let it drop down. What a pain. Found oil pump properly installed, but hex drive was cracked to where the drive shaft just rotated in it. New oil pump. Obviously bound up at least temporarily. Now to install a new pump, and make sure Ive got good pressure before I reinstall those tubes. UGH! Thanks for all the replies, they are appreciated. This site really is a Godsend for us people that think we know it all, because we drive the best!!
Click to expand...
 
Replace intermediate shaft with pump. You will be doing it all over again if you don't. If you are using the HP pump, you need the hardened shaft one. so it will last.
 
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