what is a fair price to have an engine rebuild?

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diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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kinda jumping the gun here but it looks like I might have an issue wit my 360 which warrants a rebuild

I called a local machine shop and they quoted me around $2500.00
after we talked a bit about what is on the engine right now it came down to $1900.00
(main reason being they serviced the heads last winter, the timing set is new and so is the cam and lifter set up)

so this should include machine work on the block, crank and rods (if needed)
new pistons (9.5 to 1) and assembly into a long block

does this sound fair?
and what should I expect to add to the price tag if I have them build it into a 408 stroker?
 
kinda jumping the gun here but it looks like I might have an issue wit my 360 which warrants a rebuild

I called a local machine shop and they quoted me around $2500.00
after we talked a bit about what is on the engine right now it came down to $1900.00
(main reason being they serviced the heads last winter, the timing set is new and so is the cam and lifter set up)

so this should include machine work on the block, crank and rods (if needed)
new pistons (9.5 to 1) and assembly into a long block

does this sound fair?
and what should I expect to add to the price tag if I have them build it into a 408 stroker?

If'n you want a stroker, I would call Mike at MRL. Only way to go. Not saying there aren't any other qualified people out there, but with the successes he has had with his builds, that's where I would go.


Have you actually determined what the noise is?
 
I just paid $3,100 and waited 2.5 years to get my 340 hot tanked, machined, balanced, magnafluxed, etc., including heads (exhaust seats, new springs, new intake valves, spring perches machined, etc.), and new rods & bearings. $1,900 sounds good to me!
 
I am not sure where that number is coming from exactly without seeing an invoice, but I guess every shop has its price. Set of pistons and rings and machine work is way under $1000 easy. Assembly around me is $750 to running. I pay around $450 for quality machine work on a block. Buy my own parts. A lot of places charge a 30% or more mark up on parts. If cost is an issue the stroker will assuredly be more. I have a ton in rotating assembly and machine work in my 408 build without heads, rockers yet. In the future I would just buy one done, but I wanted to put it together myself and I am in no damn hurry.
 
I just paid $3,100 and waited 2.5 years to get my 340 hot tanked, machined, balanced, magnafluxed, etc., including heads (exhaust seats, new springs, new intake valves, spring perches machined, etc.), and new rods & bearings. $1,900 sounds good to me!

In two and a half years I'm likely to have the motor back in the shop blown up again! You are a patient man.....
 
Staying local is a plus, I think the shop price is decent, for a stock-style rebuild.
If they assemble the motor. And you buy no parts.

If you are thinking of 408, look at Blue Print engines, $3500, I have two good friends that have them with no issues.
They run them hard and they are staying together.
 
If'n you want a stroker, I would call Mike at MRL. Only way to go. Not saying there aren't any other qualified people out there, but with the successes he has had with his builds, that's where I would go.


Have you actually determined what the noise is?

I was just on their website and I liked the 520-520 numbers they where throwing around
I didn't see a price list though

Are they located in Michigan ?
(I'm in holland)


I haven't found the cause of the racket yet, but I had time to call the shop today and no time to wrencheck so I figured...why not



3500 for a blue print engine sounds good, any idea what is all included with that setup?
 
I spent 4000 for machine work and assembly

I supplied all the parts for my 416 build with w2 heads

I do wonder about the crate engine route now but the exchange rate may or may not work in my favor ... but I know I pieced together my little 340
 
(I'm in holland)

3500 for a blue print engine sounds good, any idea what is all included with that setup?

Bolt in, carb to oil pan, includes distributor.
Low grade parts but reliable, and includes dyno sheet.
They are like 375 hp, good street tire burners.
 
GOOD machine work on a block cost at least a 1000
 
GOOD machine work on a block cost at least a 1000

This^^ Quality machining/shop tasks are not cheap...it just depends on what you want to spend how fast you want to and how much you value your investment. I paid about the same as fish did for the last engine I put together, but I elected to save the money on assembly for myself.

MRL builds fine engines based on their reputation; with that rep comes commensurate pricing. Look at his vendor page, I'm pretty sure he has pricing for a couple of predestined packages. Beyond that, pricing isn't on there probably because every customer is different and needs/wants a different spec'd engine...which can make the price vary greatly. Call him up, tell him what you want, and discuss the build.
 
what should I expect to add to the price tag if I have them build it into a 408 stroker?


It's all subjective by your location, the builder, and the need. As for me a 1hp/inch 360 will run around $4500. That's a core engine coming in, a running engine going out. 1.1hp/inch (400hp) add $500 to that base figure. 1.2hp/inch (430hp) add $2000. A non-factory stroke engine will add 20% to those figures. Ability to re-use some parts would reduce that but it would take careful inspection and review of the expectations to determine whether or not they would work.
Generally you get what you pay for but there are some ways costs can escalate.
For example doing anything in CT seems to be more expensive. Or have to ship the core or the finished engine accross the country will add hundreds to the bill.
 
I have about $3500 in my 273 with quality machine work, cylinder head upgrades, pistons, rings bearings and gaskets. Strokers should be in the $5-7000 range as moper stated. That $7000 stroker motor kinda puts that $15,000 Swinger I'm looking at, into perspective.
 
Here is an idea. Pretty basic build. Zero deck and KB107s. I supplied many parts like the cam, timing set and pistons. My crank was bad and he had a spare magnum laying around. This should give you an idea.
 
there seems to be quite a difference in price between RML and blueprint, but im guessing that shows in output aswell

I like the idea of the bleu print engines actually being dynoed (not sure if MRL will too?)

the local shop in talking with hasn't gotten back to me yet about the stroker build but they did say they will build the motor up to a long block so a bit of final assembly will be up to myself


im not fully sold on the idea of a stroker but I am fully sold on the idea of not having to pull the engine again...ever




on a side note, I don't know what valves I have right now, 1.88 I would imagine
but between the heads and the 268 cam that I have right now, does it make sense to use those parts on a stroker build?

or will I end up having a stroker that have the power (and torque, yay) curve of a diesel?
 
My engine builder has crate motor packages he offers as well as complete custom performance race engines. He built me a 350 sbc chevy for my vette, i dropped off a block crank and rods, he supplied everything else other than distributor and carb. Bill was $3600,00 tax in dyno tuned. Made 350 hp 390 tq nice driver motor.

My 426 big block for my duster was $13,000 dyno tuned.
 
Everything around here is about $2000 for a simple tear down, cleaning, and rebuild. That doesn't include any machining or parts. The engine was already a stroker so all the parts were there, but by the time we ended up ordering custom pistons, custom pushrods, custom valves, MRL roller lifters, custom cam, new timing set, head porting, a very small amount of machine work, balanced rotating assembly, and other various things, I've got around $5500 in it now.
 
It's all subjective by your location, the builder, and the need. As for me a 1hp/inch 360 will run around $4500. That's a core engine coming in, a running engine going out. 1.1hp/inch (400hp) add $500 to that base figure. 1.2hp/inch (430hp) add $2000. A non-factory stroke engine will add 20% to those figures. Ability to re-use some parts would reduce that but it would take careful inspection and review of the expectations to determine whether or not they would work.
Generally you get what you pay for but there are some ways costs can escalate.
For example doing anything in CT seems to be more expensive. Or have to ship the core or the finished engine accross the country will add hundreds to the bill.

I would agree with the accuracy of the above statement.

I just had my engine built and it came in at 403 HP and dyno'd. Check out the "Joey's 360" thread for more info.
 
I would agree with the accuracy of the above statement.

I just had my engine built and it came in at 403 HP and dyno'd. Check out the "Joey's 360" thread for more info.

looks like the same cam and compression I would be looking at, if not going the stroker route
(that is at the $1900.00 price tag)
a big part to keep the cost down is the parts I already have (cam, heads don't need work) and the lack of dyno tuning, which im sure leaves some power on the table



did anyone want to chime in on the use of that 268 cam and the 1.88 heads on a 408?
 
im up in edmonton and just went through this im into my 416 build so far for over 9000, and i supplied alot of parts
 
there seems to be quite a difference in price between RML and blueprint, but im guessing that shows in output aswell

I like the idea of the bleu print engines actually being dynoed (not sure if MRL will too?)

the local shop in talking with hasn't gotten back to me yet about the stroker build but they did say they will build the motor up to a long block so a bit of final assembly will be up to myself


im not fully sold on the idea of a stroker but I am fully sold on the idea of not having to pull the engine again...ever




on a side note, I don't know what valves I have right now, 1.88 I would imagine
but between the heads and the 268 cam that I have right now, does it make sense to use those parts on a stroker build?

or will I end up having a stroker that have the power (and torque, yay) curve of a diesel?


Mike at MRL has dyno'ed some of his builds, I would talk to him and see what he can do for you...


If you are going to stroke it, I would go to 2.02 intakes. Putting 1.88" on a stroker is like going to McDonalds and ordering 4 double cheesburgers, 3 fries, onion rings, AND A DIET COKE....
 
I was $1500 into a sonic check, mag, balance, Deck and square block, top pistons to zero deck, balance, Hang pistons on new scat rods, clean, install cam bearings and fit to cam, hone and align hone for main studs. I supplied all the parts. That was just labor.
 
looks like the same cam and compression I would be looking at, if not going the stroker route
(that is at the $1900.00 price tag)
a big part to keep the cost down is the parts I already have (cam, heads don't need work) and the lack of dyno tuning, which im sure leaves some power on the table



did anyone want to chime in on the use of that 268 cam and the 1.88 heads on a 408?

You can use the cam and heads on the 408, but the power peak will be lower than with a 360...it would be like running a motorhome engine with an RV cam probably...the heads will be your biggest bottleneck, but yes, it will run.

EDIT: Ooops--Karl already nailed that one down--I wasn't reading the comments closely enough.
 
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