What is my seal called?

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Ruger64

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My 7 1/4 Sure grip is leaking.
Its the seal where the yolk slides in. The part the drives shaft bolts to.
I called Advance, and told him a yolk seal. I don't know the real name. I always called them YOLK!
He said it is a differential pinion seal? Is that right? Wanted to make sure.
 
yup its a pinion seal. I about got in a fist fight with one of those pimple face punks one time because i asked for a "pumpkin gasket". I then tried to explain what a third member, drop out, center section,pig, chunk or differential carrier was. I was ready to clobber that kid. lol.
 
younggun2.0 said:
yup its a pinion seal. I about got in a fist fight with one of those pimple face punks one time because i asked for a "pumpkin gasket". I then tried to explain what a third member, drop out, center section,pig, chunk or differential carrier was. I was ready to clobber that kid. lol.
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LOL..He sounds young on the phone. Thats why I got nervous. He called it a
Differential Pinion Seal

I asked him if it was for the yolk. He sounded confused. I need to figure out how to get that nut off. I need a socket too. I measured. Seems to be 1 1/4 inch socket I think
 
you have to be careful when doing this. I could be wrong but i believe that the pinion depth is set with a crush sleeve and the torque on the bolt is what sets the pinion depth. I would look online for the factory service steps on the seal replacement.
 
younggun2.0 said:
you have to be careful when doing this. I could be wrong but i believe that the pinion depth is set with a crush sleeve and the torque on the bolt is what sets the pinion depth. I would look online for the factory service steps on the seal replacement.
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Oh great! I was hoping something would be easy for a change. Do I only seed a seal. DO I need something else like that crush sleeve?
 
Ruger64 said:
Oh great! I was hoping something would be easy for a change.
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dont quote me on that but i think that is how it goes. I think you just need to take the nut off with a torque wrench and take the setting up a few lbs at at time till it lets go. then put it back on to that exact torque setting. like i said i could be wrong but i think that is what i read, somewhere, one time at a place i forget.
 
younggun2.0 said:
you have to be careful when doing this. I could be wrong but i believe that the pinion depth is set with a crush sleeve and the torque on the bolt is what sets the pinion depth. I would look online for the factory service steps on the seal replacement.
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Are you sure there is a crush sleeve on a 7 1/4?

He will need to torque the nut correctly no matter what.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Part # : 8516N | Line: NAT
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Wow that kids was right. Thanks for checking for me. I just watched a video on you tube..."different vehicle", and he was using white out to line everything up and counting threads. I am gonna find out the torque and do it right.
I just need to make sure there is nothing else that needs replaced.
My car sat for 20 years. There only 69k on it. SO the seal must have dried out.
 
if the pinion has any grooves wore in it then i would take some emery cloth and a shot of wd40 and give it a little love. then smear some grease on the new seal prior to putting it in that way it dont run dry when you first take her out.
 
younggun2.0 said:
if the pinion has any grooves wore in it then i would take some emery cloth and a shot of wd40 and give it a little love. then smear some grease on the new seal prior to putting it in that way it dont run dry when you first take her out.
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Good idea! Thank you! I am grabbing the seal tonight. I have to wait till the weekend until my buddy brings his electric gun over. He has a really heave duty one.
 
Ruger64 said:
Wow that kids was right. Thanks for checking for me. I just watched a video on you tube..."different vehicle", and he was using white out to line everything up and counting threads. I am gonna find out the torque and do it right.
I just need to make sure there is nothing else that needs replaced.
My car sat for 20 years. There only 69k on it. SO the seal must have dried out.
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I can't find any posts that talk about a crush sleeve on any 7 1/4 on this site.

Do you have a 1971 factory Plymouth service manual for your car? That will be the best money you will ever spend on your car and the CDs are on eBay pretty reasonable.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I can't find any posts that talk about a crush sleeve on any 7 1/4 on this site.

Do you have a 1971 factory Plymouth service manual for your car? That will be the best money you will ever spend on your car and the CDs are on eBay pretty reasonable.
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No I honestly don't. I do need to get one. Everything has been so simple so far. I never bought one.
 
Ruger64 said:
Good idea! Thank you! I am grabbing the seal tonight. I have to wait till the weekend until my buddy brings his electric gun over. He has a really heave duty one.
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electric gun? like a taser? I know its a crappy job but there has to be other ways to get motivated.
 
Ruger64 said:
I didn't think it would come off by hand? I thought it was really tight.



LOL....
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I have always done them by hand just not to have the impact hammering on the pinion/ring gear. Put a cheater pipe on a breakover bar if you need to.

I have never had one that was really hard to remove as long as the threads were cleaned up and some oil applied on them.
 
NO YOU DONT! Its very simple and have done this hundreds of times on customers cars and even postal vehicles.

1. Take the driveshaft off.
2. take a small chisel and lightly hammer a small line on the top of the nut.
3. take same chisel and put a line on the end of the pinion shaft that lines up with
the line on the nut.
4. take an air gun with socket and slowely remove the nut counting the revolutions
for reference i put a "white out" line down the socket.
5. it'll get very easy to turn towards the end so just turn by hand so you don't miss
revolutions.
6. remove yoke and pound off old seal using same chisel, catching the outer lip of the
seal and forcing out of housing.
7. clean area with rag and install new seal.
8. reinstall yoke, install nut and turn exactly the same amount back to the lines you
originally marked.

I even put it a 1/16th to 1/8th tighter. it helps to reseat the bearings. I find the crush sleeve will give a little over time so putting it that extra little bit is just enough to get back to specs. It's a proven method.
 
Ruger64 said:
Wow that kids was right. Thanks for checking for me. I just watched a video on you tube..."different vehicle", and he was using white out to line everything up and counting threads. I am gonna find out the torque and do it right.
I just need to make sure there is nothing else that needs replaced.
My car sat for 20 years. There only 69k on it. SO the seal must have dried out.
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ahh beat me to it lol. I type really slow. Good luck. The white out method works good too for marks. I just would be afraid of whiping it off and losing my marks. IMO
 
The torque setting seems to be 240 foot pounds from checking the posts on here. If you can get it this tight with a torque wrench by hand you can also remove it by hand.
 
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