What is my seal called?

-
71Scamper said:
NO YOU DONT! Its very simple and have done this hundreds of times on customers cars and even postal vehicles.

1. Take the driveshaft off.
2. take a small chisel and lightly hammer a small line on the top of the nut.
3. take same chisel and put a line on the end of the pinion shaft that lines up with
the line on the nut.
4. take an air gun with socket and slowely remove the nut counting the revolutions
for reference i put a "white out" line down the socket.
5. it'll get very easy to turn towards the end so just turn by hand so you don't miss
revolutions.
6. remove yoke and pound off old seal using same chisel, catching the outer lip of the
seal and forcing out of housing.
7. clean area with rag and install new seal.
8. reinstall yoke, install nut and turn exactly the same amount back to the lines you
originally marked.

I even put it a 1/16th to 1/8th tighter. it helps to reseat the bearings. I find the crush sleeve will give a little over time so putting it that extra little bit is just enough to get back to specs. It's a proven method.
Click to expand...

Okay, I gotcha! I have to make sure the shaft and the nut are right back how they came off. I will makr everything well!!

71Scamper said:
ahh beat me to it lol. I type really slow. Good luck. The white out method works good too for marks. I just would be afraid of whiping it off and losing my marks. IMO
Click to expand...

Yes, I was thinking that too.

Oklacarcollecto said:
The torque setting seems to be 240 foot pounds from checking the posts on here. If you can get it this tight with a torque wrench by hand you can also remove it by hand.
Click to expand...

I don't think my torque wrench goes that high...LOL
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I couldn't find a reference to it for a 7 1/4 on this site. This is where a 71 service manual would come in handy.

I know with an impact gun I could never count the revolutions of the socket correctly.
Click to expand...

I know I was thinking that. I am "hoping" to mark the socket with white out, then tap it lightly, then wind it off slowly and count...hopefully!
 
I just found out that I am supposed to reset the Pinion Bearing Preload? What does that mean?
 
I have a 1970 service manual and they show a exploded view of the differential (terrible picture!) and it shows a pinion spacer but doesn't say it's a collapsible spacer (crush sleeve) like what's in a 489 case 8-3/4 unit. Looks more like a solid spacer like a 741 or 742 uses. But at the same time they don't show shims like 741's and 742's have?? With that in mind what I've typed is probably of little help other than to say that if you do it just like 71Scamper said it should be fine. And I agree with him to turn it just a little past where it was, not much, just about an 1/8" farther. That should seat and preload the pinion bearings just fine. Also make sure you use some red Loctite on the threads of the nut because it's under a lot of load pulling the whole weight of the car and I have seen them come loose. The Loctite will prevent it from coming loose.

BTW: it's called a YOKE (like used to harness an ox) , not a YOLK (that's a part of an egg)
 
Everybody has pretty much got you covered. I will add, when you put the yoke back on put some NON HARDENING thread sealant on the splines before you slide it on. I have seen them leak through the splines after they have been disturbed.

Here is a link for some service manuals:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=service+manuals

Open them and save them to your computer. I saved all of them.
 
Bad Sport said:
Everybody has pretty much got you covered. I will add, when you put the yoke back on put some NON HARDENING thread sealant on the splines before you slide it on. I have seen them leak through the splines after they have been disturbed.

Here is a link for some service manuals:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=service+manuals

Open them and save them to your computer. I saved all of them.
Click to expand...

thanks very much! Do you mean as in permatex silicone? I have orange, black. A couple different ones. Thanks for the manuals! I truly appreciate that.
I am trying to measure the nut. Looks to be a 1 1/4 inch. Hard to get the ruler on it.
 
Ruger64 said:
Do you mean as in permatex silicone?
Click to expand...

NO, I mean NON HARDENING thread sealant, it will say that right on the tube. You can pick up small tubes of it at your local parts store and possibly the hardware store.

The only reason I suggest it is because I have seen a few of them seep through the splines, it's minimal as a rule but still a leak nonetheless.

And if memory serves me I do believe it's 1 1/4" nut.
 
Bad Sport said:
NO, I mean NON HARDENING thread sealant, it will say that right on the tube. You can pick up small tubes of it at your local parts store and possibly the hardware store.

The only reason I suggest it is because I have seen a few of them seep through the splines, it's minimal as a rule but still a leak nonetheless.

And if memory serves me I do believe it's 1 1/4" nut.
Click to expand...

Of I gotcha. I will check Napa today. I have pipe dope. If that made sense. But I will check the parts store. Just put it on the splines?

Yeah, its hard to measure. I came up with 1 1/4. Hard to get the ruler inside the yoke area. I have to buy a socket when I am out today.
 
Pipe dope, is pretty much the same thing just use that. Don't need a bunch of it just smear a thin layer on the splines.
 
Bad Sport said:
Pipe dope, is pretty much the same thing just use that. Don't need a bunch of it just smear a thin layer on the splines.
Click to expand...

Will do. Thanks very much. I didn't know to do that. I am searching everywhere on the net. I can't find the nut size. I am gonna grab a 1 1/4. It seems to measure up to that size.
 
Ruger64 said:
Will do. Thanks very much. I didn't know to do that. I am searching everywhere on the net. I can't find the nut size. I am gonna grab a 1 1/4. It seems to measure up to that size.
Click to expand...

Hang on a minute and I'll go check, I have a rear laying right in front of the garage.
 
Bad Sport said:
I just put an 1 1/4" socket on the one I have and it fits.
Click to expand...

Outstanding! Thank you. I measured it, but was second guessing myself, since it is hard to measure inside the yoke. I appreciate you doing that for me!
 
Not wanting to throw a wrench in this thread but are you sure about the 240 foot pounds ? that is allot, could it be inch lbs ? just being careful and if I did not ask I would worry about it all day... I hope all goes smooth for you and sorry if I worry to much :glasses3:
 
It's ft lbs. In other words real tight, LOL. That's what they are originally torqued to. When I rebuilt my 8 3/4 that's the same setting I used.
 
Bad Sport said:
It's ft lbs. In other words real tight, LOL.
Click to expand...
:eek:ops: I just had to make sure :glasses7: Wow!! That is real tight!!
Thank you for making sure, I just had to ask :thumleft:
 
memike said:
Not wanting to throw a wrench in this thread but are you sure about the 240 foot pounds ? that is allot, could it be inch lbs ? just being careful and if I did not ask I would worry about it all day... I hope all goes smooth for you and sorry if I worry to much :glasses3:
Click to expand...

Thanks. I am grabbing a electric heavy duty impact to get it off. my buddy has a dewalt that he swears will work. I am going to line it back up the way it came off. I don't have a wrench that goes that high on the torque table. I marked the nut/yoke/pinion. And counted the threads. I am going to take it about a 1/8 inch tighter, to make sure it meets the crush sleeve. Thanks though. That has been on my mind...ugh!!
 
Okay, got my gun and socket. I went to three parts stores. None of them knew what Non hardening thread sealer was. I was told pipe dope does harden and crumble after a while. Can I use some hi temp wheel bearing grease I have on hand? I don't know what to get.
 
Yup, use the grease. I wouldn't be bashful about using the pipe dope you have either, it will never work it's way out once the yoke is in place. It's just a little added security anyway.

I can't believe the parts store didn't know what you were asking. My NAPA has it on the shelf. :banghead:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top