What just burnt up?

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cdwmotorsports

cdwmotorsports

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i was reinstalling the torque converter in the trans and heard a sizzling and saw this connection smoking, so I grabbed a rag and pulled it apart.

What is the best way to fix this? I am pretty sure it is the main feed for the dash.
 
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Pinched a wire in the bellhousing?
 
Nope nothing near it but starter, and it’s laying on torsion bar. I should’ve shut battery disconnect off and forgot, decided I didn’t want to get out... doh
 
Tooljunkie said:
Pinched a wire in the bellhousing?
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Probably, but how would we know with the tiny amount of information on how and when exactly.
Never seen a converter short out wiring just because a person installed it in the trans.:D
 
Didn’t say that was the cause, that’s what I was doing. I don’t even really care about the cause as I’m sure it was because I grounded out the starter. I’m more concerned about the fix.
 
cdwmotorsports said:
Didn’t say that was the cause, that’s what I was doing. I don’t even really care about the cause as I’m sure it was because I grounded out the starter. I’m more concerned about the fix.
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Well, with no pics and that to go on I have to guess you fried the fusible link. ("main feed for the dash")
They can be replaced, and are available.
 
Yep, fusible link.
They are available, but since I run auto resetting breakers I'm not up on where to get the links.
@slantsixdan could sure fill you in on them.
 
There are other forms of slow-blow circuit protection you can use, but self-resetting circuit breakers are absolutely not an appropriate replacement for fuselinks, unless you want to have a car-b-que at some indeterminate point in the future. The point is to kill the circuit dead and have it stay dead until the fault is fixed. A self-resetting breaker will keep on sending power to the damaged circuit every time it cools down, worsening the damage and eventually starting a fire.

See here for options and links.
 
I purchased these from eBay, as cheap as they are they work, electrical disconnect tools. When assembled at the factory the wire and connector are pushed into the block ….. made into the connector is a small spring tab that springs up into the block, so the wire cannot be pull out. The tools shown are use to squeeze in between the connector and block to push down on the spring tab and then removed from the block. Your bulk head connector must be disconnected from the firewall for the tools to operate properly. When you have your bulkhead disconnect from the firewall this would be an excellent time to clean and inspect the other wiring.

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Thats something i would do. Get your amperage rating right.
 
1: read the links Dan posted if you haven't. great info
2: maxi fuse will work too, you need to figure out what size though
3: that bulkhead connector looks like crap. i'm guessing that's the main wire to the ammeter. you might want to bypass the firewall connector and run the correct size wire right to the ammeter. there's a couple different ways to do it, but use real good connectors and insulate everything well.

good luck
 
kursplat said:
1: read the links Dan posted if you haven't. great info
2: maxi fuse will work too, you need to figure out what size though
3: that bulkhead connector looks like crap. i'm guessing that's the main wire to the ammeter. you might want to bypass the firewall connector and run the correct size wire right to the ammeter. there's a couple different ways to do it, but use real good connectors and insulate everything well.

good luck
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Don’t have an ammeter.
 
ok, so it's just bypassed in the dash with the connectors tied together?
whatever you do, you need to find the fault and clear it first
 
Fugly looking.

That is why every last piece of wire and connectors were replaced on the car during my resto. I know my response does not help you, but 50 year old stuff that has been neglected and hacked by who knows is a disaster waiting to happen. Glad you did not have a fire.

Do it right and replace it all.
 
1969383S said:
Fugly looking.

That is why every last piece of wire and connectors were replaced on the car during my resto. I know my response does not help you, but 50 year old stuff that has been neglected and hacked by who knows is a disaster waiting to happen. Glad you did not have a fire.

Do it right and replace it all.
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Yep it is and the wiring is on my list.
 
Replace all of it. Don't dick around on this.
 
kursplat said:
3: that bulkhead connector looks like crap. i'm guessing that's the main wire to the ammeter. you might want to bypass the firewall connector and run the correct size wire right to the ammeter. there's a couple different ways to do it, but use real good connectors and insulate everything well.

good luck
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Is this the MAD bypass I keep reading about?

I have crackedbacks big 6 gauge Wire from alt to starter solenoid. Does this fix any of this issue?
 
cdwmotorsports said:
Is this the MAD bypass I keep reading about?
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no, i'm just talking about replacing the fuse link or installing a maxi fuse in it's place, after fixing the problem that caused the short.
since the bulkhead connector looks like crap, don't try to reconnect the fuse link to the bulkhead. run good, correctly sized wire from the new fuse link/maxi fuse to the inside of the car, to an easy to access place just past the bulkhead connector. you would cut clear the original wire on both sides of the BH connector and loose that poor connection. i've previously read Dan's reasoning and the MAD bypass stuff, and after looking at the factory wiring diagrams, i agree with Dan. a factory wiring diagram is the way to go. oh, and disconnect the battery before doing any of this

good luck
 
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