cdwmotorsports
Well-Known Member
Last edited:
What just burnt up?
- Thread starter cdwmotorsports
- Start date
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Do yourself a favor and look to see if the throttle cable rubbed through. I has a bad engine fire beause of that. I would find what caused it before repairing it and it fries again.
cdwmotorsports
Well-Known Member
It wasn’t a throttle cable rubbing through, the engine is out and I just the day prior put the brand new throttle cable and bracket in. Thanks for the tip though, I’ll keep an eye out for that in the future.
I’m 98% sure I grounded out the starter because I hadn’t shut the battery switch off and assumed (yes I know) I had.
That will do it. I had my engine catch while driving not fun. You can get most connectors on line if you want to go that way. I would look for a harness to put in.
I have one of those battery turn of devices on mine makes it easy and also if you take the knob out no one is going to start the car to steal it!
cdwmotorsports
Well-Known Member
My battery is in my trunk and my cut off switch is through the reverse light on the left side. I was sitting on the k frame and attempting to seat the TC when I think I grounded it out. I was pretty sure I had shut it off the previous night not wanting to wake up to a burnt shell of a car I’ve owned for 24 years this June. Clearly I had not. Oh well it just gives me a reason to fix old wiring issues and dumb kid hacks.... yeah I was the dumb kid.
It’s an old /6 that was converted to a 360and now has a big block. So stock wiring is no longer needed nor really desired, I’m currently shopping for new options.
It’s an old /6 that was converted to a 360and now has a big block. So stock wiring is no longer needed nor really desired, I’m currently shopping for new options.
LOL sounds like my car slant now a 440. What I did was just make a engine harness up tailored to what I needed sounds hard but was actually easy for me I don't know your skills.
Sounded reasonable but I don't think the starter feed is protected, even in '72. So unless the engine was running, power would be coming from battery.
Lookie here at the simplified diagram.
Fusible Links in Charging Systems.
Your fusible link is essentially same location even though its closer to the bulkhead.
cdwmotorsports
Well-Known Member
Well the engine can’t run if it isn’t in the car....
Got it!
Now go find that short!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Here's the thing:
ANYTHING that bad is VERY likely to have melted other wires in the harness causing "interesting" shorts and cross connects
There is some stuff in Mopars that is NOT FUSED except for the fuse link, and the fuse Link CAN HAS AND WILL not always protect against what you see here. JUST ONE EXAMPLE is a shorted alternator.......which can/ has burned/ melted the engine bay harness from the alternator all the way to the firewall, up into the dash harness to the alternator, BACK through the firewall to the fuse link......and then blow the fuse link
I'd yank the engine bay harness out, "pin" it out on scrap wood, document it, unwrap it and examine / rebuild it, or find a replacement, either used or "repop." Try to "notice" what is melted worst to find what the cause is
THEN you might be pulling out the under dash harness as well
Some main things that ARE NOT FUSED (unless the wiring has been modified:
1: Alternator charge line, the big black going from alternator around the bay, through the firewall, to a splice in the panel harness, back out through the firewall (red) to the fuse link
The entire ammeter harness, and the ammeter can short
The hot buss supply line from the "welded splice" in the ammeter circuit TO the fuse panel
The main hot going to the ignition switch
The ACC buss going (switched) from ignition switch to the fuse panel
ALL the ignition "run" wiring out through the firewall, supplying ignition system, regulator, alternator field, and some smog doo--dads
Starter "start" yellow wire feeding the start relay
Coil bypass circuit, brown, "IGN2"
ANYTHING that bad is VERY likely to have melted other wires in the harness causing "interesting" shorts and cross connects
There is some stuff in Mopars that is NOT FUSED except for the fuse link, and the fuse Link CAN HAS AND WILL not always protect against what you see here. JUST ONE EXAMPLE is a shorted alternator.......which can/ has burned/ melted the engine bay harness from the alternator all the way to the firewall, up into the dash harness to the alternator, BACK through the firewall to the fuse link......and then blow the fuse link
I'd yank the engine bay harness out, "pin" it out on scrap wood, document it, unwrap it and examine / rebuild it, or find a replacement, either used or "repop." Try to "notice" what is melted worst to find what the cause is
THEN you might be pulling out the under dash harness as well
Some main things that ARE NOT FUSED (unless the wiring has been modified:
1: Alternator charge line, the big black going from alternator around the bay, through the firewall, to a splice in the panel harness, back out through the firewall (red) to the fuse link
The entire ammeter harness, and the ammeter can short
The hot buss supply line from the "welded splice" in the ammeter circuit TO the fuse panel
The main hot going to the ignition switch
The ACC buss going (switched) from ignition switch to the fuse panel
ALL the ignition "run" wiring out through the firewall, supplying ignition system, regulator, alternator field, and some smog doo--dads
Starter "start" yellow wire feeding the start relay
Coil bypass circuit, brown, "IGN2"
Capt46
Well-Known Member
Follow the battery wire down along the fender well to the starter, might be rubbing against the torsion bar/exhaust manifold grounding out
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