You did not mention if it would be used for street/strip or all out race (transbrake?) -
I have always had good luck with Raybestos clutch frictions, namely the Tan waffle frictions for the direct/rev drum and the graphite frictions for the forward clutches. Use Red lined solid backed bands for kickdown and low/rev, set clutch clearances with selective FLAT snap rings (Not the WAVY rings), usually set them at 0.010-0.015" clearance per disc for the direct/rev clutches and 0.020-0.035" total clearance for the forward clutches, use a new Belleville spring. Recommend 4 clutches in the direct/rev clutch drum, as some drums can only fit three. Set gear train and input shaft end play at the low end of the specs with selective thrust washer behind the pump and selective snap ring at the front of the output shaft, use a bronze thrust washer between the input and output shafts, use the '62-'70 two spring kickdown servo and a 4.2 band apply lever, remove the accumulator spring and block the piston down, shim the low/rev servo solid if using a low band apply valvebody. May also need a higher spring rate for the low/rev piston as well as a HD spring retainer if using a low band apply VB. I always replace the torque converter pump bushing with a babbit lined bushing. Also replace the extension housing bushing as well as the bushing in the direct/rev clutch drum. Using a fixed pressure VB may cause excessive wear on metal sealing rings on the reaction shaft support, so replace them with Teflon rings. Deep pan with drain plug and a good cooler. I believe the valvebody is key along with attention to detail. The valvebody will dictate other mods that compliment the shift characteristics. I used the Turbo Action Cheetah RMVB #17156 for years with good service. The Griner Engineering #1222G05 is an excellent unit if you can find one. John Cope at Cope Racing Transmissions makes his own line of VBs. You may want to contact him for recommendations based upon your usage. He can also provide a rebuild kit. As previously mentioned, bulkpart is a good source for rebuild kits as well.
If you plan to drag race with a transbrake, based on your traction and 60', you may need upgrades to the front planetary (aluminum spline to steel) as well as 300M high strength input and output shafts. Of course a transmission blanket or shield is always recommended, you should also consider a billet aluminum or steel direct clutch drum as well as a 16 element super Sprague to prevent direct clutch drum explosions. Also, rollerized gear train components along with a rollerized rear support for longevity if you experience excessive wear or galling in those areas.
Hope that helps get you started. John
Can anyone tell me what parts are needed to rebuild 727 trans.I have a 500 hp 580 ft lb torque 340 what parts would you suggest to get.I want the parts to hold up no matter how i run it .I would rather have over kill than not enough tired of taking this trans in an out.If i buy one i want to make sure it has the good stuff.Thanks
