What would be a decent cam?

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DartSport340

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Probably a future project as this year is full up but I like to get my parts and stuff a but at a time and have everything on hand for when im ready to do a project. when we first got it the original cam was pulled and replaced with the 284/484 MP grind..with the lower 8-8.5 comp ratio I think the car has it just didnt work right..pretty lumpy, sounded great but power brake feel sucked just not good with a low compression set up. Still have the cam and lifters on a shelf. I was just "too much" cam for what I have in the rest of the car/current set up...that came out and in went one of the Summit cruiser type grinds thats very stock but cruises around much better and brakes work great :) . I have no plan to touch the heads or anything like that till i need a full rebuild in the future so its gonna be im guessing 8-8.5 comp ratio..

Car as it sits currently

1973 Dart Sport 340

340 engine with a stockish cam its the Summit Mopar grind and its very docile 204/214 duration at 0.050, 420/442 lift

It will by then have the stock intake manifold and most likely a TQ by Demon Sizzler on it

heads are the Aerohead heads I believe J heads?? I think the $499 ones with these specs??
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]340-360[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]1968-1987 340-360 A-Engine Assem., 1.88 or 2.02X1.60 Stainless Valves, 67-70cc Open Chamber Design, .509" Lift Springs, 160cc Intake Port Volume[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]$499.00[/FONT]
pair
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727 Tranny thats stock from what I can tell same with converter and 3.21 8.25 rear end


1. Can you recommend a bit better cam that will work well with my lower compression ratio give me some more power but still let me keep the power brakes working right and play nice with everything else??

OR

Till I rebuild it someday should I just leave it alone have fun and enjoy(meaning a new cam wont do much with the rest of the combo)

I dont want to spend money just to spend money or change things just to change them if its not really gonna do too much. Im willing to just leave it but just wanted to know if there was anything better out there or if I should just "hold off" till I rebuild everything and can mill the heads and do all the stuff I want to do to raise the comp ratio to closer to 9-9.5 to 1.
 
This is a perfect example of what I was preaching in my thread earlier.

You can find the cam grind you need by taking into account your TDC and BDC along with rocker arm raito, rod length and valve length. It's easy to build an engine and get it running for most folks, but getting it running to its maximum potential is a PITA, requires a lot of work and some serious number crunching and knowledge of formulas.

I really wish I could help, but without the proper numbers I could end up wasting your money by suggesting a bad cam and I don't wanna do that. Go to the book store, drop 25 bucks on SA cartech "engine math" or pick up books on camshafts.
 
A comp XE262H/268H or similar grind would work.

If you are concerned about low end, advance it a smidge more than they already are set up for.
 
I agree with Rob, Something in the 260 advertised duration,218-228 @.050" range.

Ive been looking at the Hughes Engines cams, The 19/23 looks like a nice stock upgrade, the 23/28 and 28/32 would work well also if you ran a little more gear.
 
I agree with Rob, Something in the 260 advertised duration,218-228 @.050" range.

Ive been looking at the Hughes Engines cams, The 19/23 looks like a nice stock upgrade, the 23/28 and 28/32 would work well also if you ran a little more gear.


when I redo the rear in a year or 2(just gonna beef up the 8.25 with new parts I had thought of going with the next step up 3.55's thats what I had in the Roadrunner they were decent gears fpr mostly just driving around..dont want to go much more than that though.
 
Stock 340 cam.

thats essentialy whats in it now and I have actually been just considering leaving the engine(except for taking off the performer intake and eddie carb and going with the stock intake(would rather have a LD340 but those dont seem cheap or to be falling off trees lol) and TQ and concentrating on other stuff..then doing the engine for a solid 400 or so HP when it needs rebuilt down the road. then at least it would be all apart and need machine work anyways to at least clean stuff up...so its definitely a option.
 
The real 340 Chrysler cam is a much better grind than that Summit piece. also has more [email protected] than the comp spoken about so that means it will pull to a higher RPM. Since it is ground on a 114 LSA it will idle smooth too. It is a great grind and tough to beat for a mild street car. Though opinions vary. I have actually used them on several builds and they work very well. They worked pretty good from the factory, too.
 
isky 264 mega.if you got headers.or a crane 278hmv(now called powermax) if your running manifolds.
 
Comp XE262 or XE268
Edelbrock RPM or Air-Gap
Holley or Edelbrock in the 650-750 range.
Hi-Po 340 manifolds or TTI's.
 
The hughes 23/28 or Comp XE262H giving your gearing would be sweet
I hear and agree with the 750 recomendation but Im not sure what would (run best) like a vaccume sec or a double pumper or Edelbrock can be a personal choice.
Bruce B
 
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