Put one of these in it.
What's a good rear end to put in my Duster?
- Thread starter carlwinfree
- Start date
-
madmoparmick
Well-Known Member
Nice job, but not everyone has access to welding equipment and skills. Actually,
I used offset shackles and my brother used washers which worked fine. And as
far as springs being angled front to rear, that's how '70's B-bodies are from
factory.
I used offset shackles and my brother used washers which worked fine. And as
far as springs being angled front to rear, that's how '70's B-bodies are from
factory.
Yes, but the B and E bodies are designed to be that way. Which means the perches are in line with the springs, so there's no side load induced on the springs or hangers. And the hangers are parallel to the shackles, so no bind on the hanger/bushing/eye bolt, even though there is an angle front to rear.
The offset shackles used opposite of their intended direction at least avoids the "spacers" and additional stress from the longer shackle bolts, but it still puts a static side load on the springs which will put a bind on the hanger. It's not just the angle front to rear that's the problem, you're putting the spring at an angle from top to bottom as well, cambering it out to match the perch. That cambering is more significant than the front to back angle, because the spring is a lot longer than it is "tall". Especially if your springs sit relatively flat, that puts a lot of twist on that front eye bolt, bushing, and hanger.
Welding on a new set of perches is a job that any driveline or axle shop should be able to do in a few hours.
madmoparmick
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I got ya, but cheap, easy, and worked fine. I forgot that my buddy Steve also
did his Duster this way. I used stock springs w/ an added leaf, and Steve and my
brother used S/S springs. Drove that car like that for approx 3 yrs (was my only car)
and never had a problem, so I don't think it was that bad.
did his Duster this way. I used stock springs w/ an added leaf, and Steve and my
brother used S/S springs. Drove that car like that for approx 3 yrs (was my only car)
and never had a problem, so I don't think it was that bad.
Despite what 80% of the web info says, 66 and 67 B body 8 3/4 axles are narrower than 68-70.
These almost drop right in to a Duster, and the "loss" of wheel spacing actually makes the rears track the same as the fronts (if you have disk brakes), so it's kind of a win/win.
There will always be debate about moving the perches that 1/4" per side.
I didn't do it and had no problems.
These almost drop right in to a Duster, and the "loss" of wheel spacing actually makes the rears track the same as the fronts (if you have disk brakes), so it's kind of a win/win.
There will always be debate about moving the perches that 1/4" per side.
I didn't do it and had no problems.
Just save yourself the headache and find a 8.75. I was patient and found one out of a demon, complete rear with 741 housing and 2.76 gears for a whopping 250 bucks at a swap meet back in march. Hunt craigslist and local pick a parts. I picked up a b body 8.75 from a 66 coronet for 50 bucks complete. As for the bolt pattern, you can get big bolt pattern axles from moser , strange etc or have a good machine shop drill the factory ones out. My local shop did mine for 75 bucks and they are dead on. Swapping a ford rear or whatever can be just as expensive as doing an 8.75 and then you're still talkj g about custom drive shafts.
Yep, those 66/67 B axles are a LOT cheaper and a LOT easier to find than a A body 8 3/4.
You stole that A body unit complete for $250.
I've seen bare housings go for that!
$50 for a B is good, too. Around here $100 complete is good.
You stole that A body unit complete for $250.
I've seen bare housings go for that!
$50 for a B is good, too. Around here $100 complete is good.
madmoparmick
Well-Known Member
Thanks, YYI. That bully was beatin' up on me. I'm not about to knock ya, 72bluNblu, I can respect the
fact that you're into into making cars handle as good as possible. The only time I was concerned with
how fast I could make a turn was when I was racing stock cars at Santa Fe & Raceway Park in the
Chicago area. And then it was just a matter of gutting the car to the bones, chop the springs, lean the
right front wheel out(big bias ply), tune the motor, and drive like hell. Other than that, I do want my
cars to accelerate quick, drive steady, and stop quick. I do appreciate nice craftmanship and the effort
to achieve it. Happy hot roddin' brother. I can see you do nice stuff.
fact that you're into into making cars handle as good as possible. The only time I was concerned with
how fast I could make a turn was when I was racing stock cars at Santa Fe & Raceway Park in the
Chicago area. And then it was just a matter of gutting the car to the bones, chop the springs, lean the
right front wheel out(big bias ply), tune the motor, and drive like hell. Other than that, I do want my
cars to accelerate quick, drive steady, and stop quick. I do appreciate nice craftmanship and the effort
to achieve it. Happy hot roddin' brother. I can see you do nice stuff.
You're ONE Lucky Dude! It aint gonna last much longer, esp if you're doing burnouts. Be on the lookout for a nice 8.75.
-
