when changing to an HEI distributor...

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diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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I can get rid of the ballast resistor right?

(I have a 71 duster, that came with a points ignition /6 and im dropping in a 360 with a skip white distributor)

the ballast resistor has 2 post with 2 wires each
can I just cut them at the harness, splice all 4 together and tape it up?
 
Or you could get a couple male yellow fast-on terminals, a short #12 wire, and large heat shrink tubing. Crimp the ends on, connect to OEM female terminals, with heat shrink to tie it together and insulate. Remove ballast and tie wrap splice neatly in the harness path.

Electrical tape makes a sticky mess in automotive environment.

It is then possible to go back, or open the connection for trouble shooting ignition switch in the future.
 
ballast resistor limited the voltage to the coil extending the life of the coil and points. Once the car got warm, the ballast would heat up and reduce the coil feed, making the points trigger a lower voltage, extending their life. in an HEI, the transistor switches the HEI coil ground. no more arcing points and thus no ballast required and no burned coil since the HEI coil is designed to work on full voltage.
"..The term also referred to a (now obsolete) automobile engine component that lowered the supply voltage to the ignition system after the engine had been started. Because cranking the engine causes a very heavy load on the battery, the system voltage can drop quite low during cranking. To allow the engine to start, the ignition system was designed to operate on this lower voltage. But once cranking is finished, the normal operating voltage would overload the ignition system. To avoid this problem, a ballast resistor was inserted in series with the ignition system. Occasionally, this ballast resistor would fail and the classic symptom of this failure was that the engine ran while being cranked (while the resistor was bypassed) but stalled immediately when cranking ceased (and the resistor was re-connected in the circuit)..."
 
I beg to differ about the HEI coil. Typically the primary resistance is about 1/2 Ohm, so the current could rise to about 28 Amps. Most coils only tolerate an average current of 4 to 6 Amps.

The HEI module limits the current in two ways. At low RPM it has an electronic current limit, that operation that generates heat in the module that must be dissipated with heat sink. The other is the coil charge time is predicted and controlled, such that the current limit occurs near the spark event.
 
Just to throw this in, I ran a stock Mopar coil with an HEI module with no resistor for over two years. Unfortunately, "I don't really" have a car right now
 
I think you might have missed the point. Yes the HEI module will limit the current with any coil, or even for a short. But HEI coil, typically E-core, has a low primary resitance, and will fail if used points or OEM mopar box without ballast to limit current. It might work for race only where RPM is kept high, and run time is short. At idle the coil charge time is about 10 times too long, resulting in excessive coil current, and eventual thermal failure.
 
I didn't hack the wiring harness. I just used a male-male spade terminal to plug the 2 factory connectors together. They come in bubble packs, but hard to find. Can also use a short jumper as post #3 suggests.
 
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