Which K member?

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Thank you Andy, I'm not sure about them either, by later..your meaning after 68? I may check at the Schumacher website.
 
Early and late as far as mounts go is 67-72 and 73-76. The Schumacher mounts for the late V8 k-member require cutting the driver side saddle shorter and drilling a new hole. I'd rather build a DC k-member out of one...
 
Jim Lusk said:
Early and late as far as mounts go is 67-72 and 73-76. The Schumacher mounts for the late V8 k-member require cutting the driver side saddle shorter and drilling a new hole. I'd rather build a DC k-member out of one...
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Thank you Jim
 
Jim Lusk said:
I've got one in the shop right now. It's also getting some special internal stiffening for the LCA pin tubes and other reinforcements. Should be done in a few weeks...but won't exactly be cheap...
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Whaat would one cost me say for street/strip use. Or shoud I say..what would you recommend Jim?
 
I used the TransDapt mounts and instead of shimming I used some SB truck biscuits I laying around which are thicker.(raises the eng 1/2"+/-) I left the trans mount loose and pushed the engine back as far as it would go (gives you clutch fan, steering box/ linkage clearance ).........I then had to open the slot up on the PS and move the slot about 1/2" on the DS. ( As Jim said any which way you go will require some fab work) Doing this allowed me to use stock B body Hedman headers with only some small dents to clear the T-bars / stock starter clears / I don't recommend the mini starter as it clocked outward and requires a major dent to clear. I've also built the DC k frame and is a little more work but you can also shim the towers before you weld them back to get steering box/ linkage clearance. ** With these headers you will have to shorten the outer tube on the steering column **
 

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Make sure you buy Schumacher Swap Kit Parts. The swill that is being sold on Sleaze Bay
is absolute puke. I bought some. One look and I tossed them on my metal scrap pile.
Google Schumacher Engine Swap Kit. Important information. Read it. It will ultimately save you time, which is money- and aggravation- which is not necessary in this life.
Every dollar you spend with Schumacher will put a smile on your face.
tpg
 
Holy Roller said:
Whaat would one cost me say for street/strip use. Or shoud I say..what would you recommend Jim?
Click to expand...

This k-member will be fully welded around the outside seam, reinforced in and out (I will be adding gussets inside on the LCA pin tubes. I'll be looking for $350 for it. I don't have any spare mounts, but here is a set that is set up to be solid:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/mopar-dodge...ash=item464b6fe8de:g:f10AAOSwGYVW-wo4&vxp=mtr

and a crusty set that the guy doesn't know what they are:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-76-Mop...ash=item46498da6d9:g:bQoAAOSwZG9WicSE&vxp=mtr
 
That really looks good...awesome job. I didn't realize I would have to so much work to stuff a bb in my barracuda, they did have some stock from the factory with hemi's and 383's...I thought. But it's worth it.
 
What do you think shipping would run to 77627. And when do you think it would be ready.....the reason I'm asking is I'm going to a swap meet in Humble Tx. This weekend and it would be next week before I could do anything. And if I happen to miss this one, are you going to be doing any more Jim
 
Jim Lusk said:
This k-member will be fully welded around the outside seam, reinforced in and out (I will be adding gussets inside on the LCA pin tubes. I'll be looking for $350 for it. I don't have any spare mounts, but here is a set that is set up to be solid:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/mopar-dodge...ash=item464b6fe8de:g:f10AAOSwGYVW-wo4&vxp=mtr

and a crusty set that the guy doesn't know what they are:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-76-Mop...ash=item46498da6d9:g:bQoAAOSwZG9WicSE&vxp=mtr[/QUOTE
Jim...could you give me an estimate on shipping to 77627.
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Shipping would be somewhere around $50 or so. I wouldn't know for certain until I package it up, weigh, and measure it. I plan on finishing it by April 16. If I don't sell it first I will take it to Spring Fling.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Shipping would be somewhere around $50 or so. I wouldn't know for certain until I package it up, weigh, and measure it. I plan on finishing it by April 16. If I don't sell it first I will take it to Spring Fling.
Click to expand...
That sounds great, so I guess I should keep checking back with you or will you let me know when it's complete? I read a post where you built a K member for someone else, would you happen to have any pics you could send me @ 409-299-0969. I would appreciate it very much. What is Spring fling...we don't have any kind of Mopar swap meets in this area, I would love to find one. Thank you Jim for everything.
 
Spring Fling is in Van Nuys (Los Angeles). It's the biggest west coast Mopar show/swap.

I'll let you know. I would have worked on it tonight, but I had a Chev to work on for my semi-adopted daughter (long story, but she grew up next door to us - she and her boyfriend are just starting out and I'd like to see her drive something safe - it was missing one upper control arm bolt/nut and no brakes...). I will get on it within the next week, though. I don't have pics on my phone, but I can get some when I get it mounted again.
 
Thank you Jim...I wished we had any kind of Mopar swap meet around here..lol. I gues thats one reason i like Mopar, they're underdogs down here in S.E. Texas. I understand about the kids being safe,I'll check back with you or you can shoot me a text and whenever you get a pic just send one this way. By the way..I checked out your gallery, you have some nice rides.
 
SS23MOPAR said:
I used the TransDapt mounts and instead of shimming I used some SB truck biscuits I laying around which are thicker.(raises the eng 1/2"+/-) I left the trans mount loose and pushed the engine back as far as it would go (gives you clutch fan, steering box/ linkage clearance ).........I then had to open the slot up on the PS and move the slot about 1/2" on the DS. ( As Jim said any which way you go will require some fab work) Doing this allowed me to use stock B body Hedman headers with only some small dents to clear the T-bars / stock starter clears / I don't recommend the mini starter as it clocked outward and requires a major dent to clear. I've also built the DC k frame and is a little more work but you can also shim the towers before you weld them back to get steering box/ linkage clearance. ** With these headers you will have to shorten the outer tube on the steering column **
Click to expand...

Will any small block truck biscuits work? or do you order for a particular year? I still have not beat my oil pan to clear the center link and was looking at the mounts to shim. But if i can get a taller biscuit that may be the answer to my issues here.
 
Fisher said:
Will any small block truck biscuits work? or do you order for a particular year? I still have not beat my oil pan to clear the center link and was looking at the mounts to shim. But if i can get a taller biscuit that may be the answer to my issues here.
Click to expand...

80's Dodge truck with SB is what I used.......I haven't tried it yet but 90's Dodge truck mounts ( w/ Magnum engine ) have a locking tab in case of failure which you could use on the driver side. What year A body are you working on?
 
SS23MOPAR said:
I used the TransDapt mounts and instead of shimming I used some SB truck biscuits I laying around which are thicker.(raises the eng 1/2"+/-) I left the trans mount loose and pushed the engine back as far as it would go (gives you clutch fan, steering box/ linkage clearance ).........I then had to open the slot up on the PS and move the slot about 1/2" on the DS. ( As Jim said any which way you go will require some fab work) Doing this allowed me to use stock B body Hedman headers with only some small dents to clear the T-bars / stock starter clears / I don't recommend the mini starter as it clocked outward and requires a major dent to clear. I've also built the DC k frame and is a little more work but you can also shim the towers before you weld them back to get steering box/ linkage clearance. ** With these headers you will have to shorten the outer tube on the steering column **
Click to expand...
I tried the truck/ thick biscuits in my car and did not work, moved the motor up to high, and the trans was basically sitting against the trans tunnel.. just my experience though
 
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