Who here has used a Powertrain Technology hydraulic throwout bearing?

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ozmoparjoe

ozmoparjoe

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Hi all, as the title says, im wondering if anyone here that has used or is using a Powertrain Technology hydraulic release bearing, in particular their Street-Max one, i have been quoted by them a price of $319 US which im ok with, but what i'm unsure of is the website says it does't need any shims / or anything to adjust so how do you set up the gap between it and clutch fingers? i'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to these things so any advice is much appreciated.

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Looks like that one "turns" to set the gap. Google how to set it up and I'll bet you find a bunch of videos.
 
Powertrain Technology put me on to a guy here in Australia that was supposedly selling their products but he no longer has them, and to be honest i feel like they (Powertrain) cant be bothered helping, so i saw on another thread that the Ram Clutches Corvette one (part # 78135) will fit a A833.
Anyone tried this setup?
 
McLeod has one also, look at Summit or Jegs.
 
ozmoparjoe said:
Hi all, as the title says, im wondering if anyone here that has used or is using a Powertrain Technology hydraulic release bearing, in particular their Street-Max one, i have been quoted by them a price of $319 US which im ok with, but what i'm unsure of is the website says it does't need any shims / or anything to adjust so how do you set up the gap between it and clutch fingers? i'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to these things so any advice is much appreciated.

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I've had their hydraulic bearing in my small block stroker for about 3 years now. Pedal effort is like a new car. Although I have an average
ozmoparjoe said:
Hi all, as the title says, im wondering if anyone here that has used or is using a Powertrain Technology hydraulic release bearing, in particular their Street-Max one, i have been quoted by them a price of $319 US which im ok with, but what i'm unsure of is the website says it does't need any shims / or anything to adjust so how do you set up the gap between it and clutch fingers? i'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to these things so any advice is much appreciated.

View attachment 1715094812
Click to expand...
I've had their hydraulic bearing in my stroker small block for about 3 years now. Pedal effort is like a new car. I'd recommend a diaphragm pressure plate and not a three finger stock type as it may be too much pressure for the seals. There and many videos on YouTube on setting the free play. Sometimes it helps to "see" it done rather than have someone explain it.
 
I have a Keisler Engineering hyd TO bearing in the Dart (over 10 years old). When Keisler went belly up several years ago, two companies were born: Powertrain Technology and Silver Sport Transmissions. I can't comment on Powertrain because I've never contacted them, but SST was very helpful when I called. The Tremec wouldn't go into gear and I thought it was the TO bearing. Talking to their tech staff at length, turned out the master cyl at the firewall needed rebuilding. Cost me $60 instead over $300. And BTW, love the hyd TO bearing; easy to shift, positive engagement. Even with the high-winding 360, my wife can shift with ease.
TREMEC 5-Speed and 6-Speed Kits: Silver Sport Transmissions
 
RBConvert said:
I have a Keisler Engineering hyd TO bearing in the Dart (over 10 years old). When Keisler went belly up several years ago, two companies were born: Powertrain Technology and Silver Sport Transmissions. I can't comment on Powertrain because I've never contacted them, but SST was very helpful when I called. The Tremec wouldn't go into gear and I thought it was the TO bearing. Talking to their tech staff at length, turned out the master cyl at the firewall needed rebuilding. Cost me $60 instead over $300. And BTW, love the hyd TO bearing; easy to shift, positive engagement. Even with the high-winding 360, my wife can shift with ease.
TREMEC 5-Speed and 6-Speed Kits: Silver Sport Transmissions
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RBConvert, it's funny you mention Keisler, i actually have that setup here, but when i went to screw in the fluid line into the TO housing, i damaged the thread and it kept leaking, so i started looking for another one and found out they don't make them anymore. I also spoke to Silver Sport Transmissions, but they could't help me as they no longer have them, and don't have a replacement, so if you or anyone else knows where i can get a Keisler one that would be great, or something that will work in it's place.
Happy to buy a Powertrain Technology one too but as i said they didn't seem to excited about helping me out.
 
srduster340 said:
I've had their hydraulic bearing in my small block stroker for about 3 years now. Pedal effort is like a new car. Although I have an average

I've had their hydraulic bearing in my stroker small block for about 3 years now. Pedal effort is like a new car. I'd recommend a diaphragm pressure plate and not a three finger stock type as it may be too much pressure for the seals. There and many videos on YouTube on setting the free play. Sometimes it helps to "see" it done rather than have someone explain it.
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srduster yeah i have a diaphragm type pressure plate and wouldn't mind purchasing one but as i said i think once they found out i was in Australia they kinda brushed me off, i might try again as i'm really stuck now, trying to find a TO bearing with the ID of 1.25" is starting to get difficult from here.
 
ozmoparjoe said:
RBConvert, it's funny you mention Keisler, i actually have that setup here, but when i went to screw in the fluid line into the TO housing, i damaged the thread and it kept leaking, so i started looking for another one and found out they don't make them anymore. I also spoke to Silver Sport Transmissions, but they could't help me as they no longer have them, and don't have a replacement, so if you or anyone else knows where i can get a Keisler one that would be great, or something that will work in it's place.
Happy to buy a Powertrain Technology one too but as i said they didn't seem to excited about helping me out.
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The slave cylinder listed on their page won't work? The description mentions Keisler by name.
Hydraulic Parts and Accessories and Hydraulic Kits
 
i have a complete american powertrain hydraulic clutch setup with billet resivore brand new in box for sale if interested...i paid $750 for it. make offer, ill get ya pics.
 
NudeHemidude said:
Have you tried malwoodauto.com.au ?
He does the hydraulics but he isn't cheap.
Can you get yours fixed by somebody?
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I have spoken to him before, but was a while ago and i cant remember why i didnt go ahead with him.
Yeah i have tried to get a couple of places to fix mine but unless i have a job for them thats worth mega dollars they dont seem too interested, its very frustrating
 
mopardude318 said:
i have a complete american powertrain hydraulic clutch setup with billet resivore brand new in box for sale if interested...i paid $750 for it. make offer, ill get ya pics.
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Hi mopardude, i may try this Malwood place one more time, i really just need the hydraulic throwout bearing as i have everything else, if that falls through i might just be interested in your kit, and ill let you know thanks for the offer.
 
hey guys, i ended up getting just the streetmax hydraulic throwout bearing, and after installing it, and bleeding it for ages, it still wont disengage the clutch! So now i need to find out whats going on and would love some advice, could there still be air in the system? Could the master cylinder not have enough stroke? It's a 3/4 bore 1.4" stroke. Theres about 5mm gap between diaphragm fingers and bearing face, pedal feels ok but just feels like it needs more travel.
Any advice appreciated thanks.

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UPDATE: I have bled bled bled the system and it has improved to the point that i can force reverse in, and force 3rd and 4th gear while motor running but not 1st / 2nd. It just needs to push the pressure plate fingers just a little bit more, should i try a longer stroke master cyl?
Appreciate any advice, its whats stopping me from driving this car after a resto!
Thanks.
 
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I have a 10 year old Keisler Engineering trans with the jyd TO bearing and two years ago it started not wanting to shift in gear. Turned out to be the master cylinder; fluid was leaking past the seals. Got a rebuild kit and issue solved.
Your case is similar in that there's not enough hydraulic pressure to fully engage the TO bearing. The master cyl might not be matched to the slave cylinder or the seals are leaking. I would start by calling tech support, giving the specs of the master cyl to find out if it's compatible with the TO.
 
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