Who make good soild roller lifters & who make bad

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440superduster

440superduster

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I am in the process of building a 512 stroker and was going roller cam but heard that thier was problems with solid roller lifters .

This is going to be a street strip car max effort but dont want to have problem every time I drive it to the cruise in or around town.

Any help would be appericated
 
There is a certain acceptance of some basic facts in going with a solid roller. You need to inspect the oil pump drive every 4k miles or so, you need to be careful in camshaft choice, and you need to be careful in choosing the lifters because the wrong ones create issues. If you plan to run a large cam, valve springs will go away faster and will need repalcement. Idle time should be retricted. Lifters will need to be rebuilt more often. i like the full body Comp rollers (829s) in big blocks. I always run lifter bore bushings because not doing so can lead to big problems if there is a valve train failure, and there can be oil pressure issues by trusting every block is the same. They aren't. What heads are you running? What are the cam specs?
 
Running stealth heads and 440 source bottom end final displacement 505 cam not picked yet looking at a xe293 or ex282 solid roller or if I cant get satified with duribilty issues I will go with a hyd roller from hughes
 
Those are small solid rollers, which was why I asked. You should be fine with the solid body Comp 829s without any odd maintenance. I'd still plan to have them rebuilt at every 8K mile interval, and the springs tested yearly (on the head testers are cheap). You will need to replace the springs, retainers and locks with those Stealth heads and that much cam. For the street, the hydraulic rollers are a good choice with no special maintenance, but I would bush the lifter bores with any roller. Friend has run the Comp street hydraulic roller in his 496 for 8 years now.
 
You need to be a LOT more specific for a cam recommendation. Were teh heads flowed? Ported? what is the car like? List off everything you can think of. What kind of street milage is it to have?
 
Head flow is
Flow Chart: CNC Stealth Cylinder Heads
Flowed at 28" on a 4.380" bore with a Superflow 600 bench.
Exhaust flowed with 2" tube. ​
Valve Lift:Intake CFM:Exhaust CFM:.100"75.072.9.200"156.7124.8.300"219.8166.4.400"266.2198.1.500"298.8219.3.550"306.2228.6.600"314.9233.3.650"320.7238.2.700"320.7243.8.750"321.6248.2

not worried about fule milage
car weights about 3400lbs
got 3.91 gears
727 torque flight
subframe concortors
4.25 stroke
.30 over 440 block
will be buying a new torque converter
2" primary 3 1/2" collertor 3" exhust flowmaster race mufflers
125 hp nos
 
A quick thought.. the Comps are too small. They'll idle well, but you're giving up a bit, and giving up power on the bottle. Your heads on a 4.35 bore (smaller than the test bore) and with the factory valve job will be down around 290cfm at .550. The cam I looked at first is a Crane solid roller p/n 688801.
Specs out as
Intake 292° duration, .630 lift, 260°@.050
Exh 300° duration, .630 lift, 268°@.050
108LSA
103ICL

Takes a 400lbs open dual spring, which is light and will keep things in good shape for a long time. You will need to upgrade springs, retainers, and locks to Crane parts.

I'd run the flat top pistons at .010 down in the hole. That yields 11.25:1 static, 8.6:1 dynamic, with .040 quench. I'd be looking at the 440 Victor or an M1 with a 2" open spacer and at least 950 cfm Holly HP 4150 carb. I'd expect at least 560hp and should make close to 580hp w/similar torque on premium pump unleaded with the Victor.
That's how I'd do it.
I did a 505" 6bbl two years ago that had a little smaller split patter custom flat tappet, that makes 600lbs of torque and 570hp on pump premium at 11.2:1
 
I have a 400/512 and went with hughes cam soild. it has 579/590 lift and 256/260 @ .50. also have indy sr max wedge heads. indy single intake, 850demon. have had no problem, and put out 524 hp at rear tires
 
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